Need Gun Safe Recommendation
- Thread starter Rockon71385
- Start date
Hoop
Well-Known Fanatic
Another vote for Bear safe here... Yes, they are a pain in the ass to get into as mentioned before. Takes some time to get the hang of opening it. I'm only in it 2-3 times a week at most.
neboob
Fanatic
Generally this is what I suggest when looking into security/deterrence
1. I would recommend going the insurance route because not all safes are equal and no safe is perfect.
2. Think tactical! The second thing you need to do is do an assessment as to who you are trying to keep out (your kids in the house, a burglar, an army) and set a price. Generally speaking electronic safes suck if someone has an inkling as to what to do.. and sometimes the box is lightweight and not tied down to anything so someone can just pick it up and go.
3. I recommend googling any safe you are interested in with the terms "cracked" "picked' or "broken". There are youtube videos, this one isn't necessarily about big gun safes, from defcons like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Yr6ATdaDQ8
Not all safes are created the same. Depending on how expensive/valuable/sentimental something is to you I would give this primer on safes a look http://imgur.com/a/90RYd
I'm not saying people need a superduper whatever to keep their 5 year old from playing curious george.. Locks/safes keep honest people honest but some of those department store safes are huge/expensive and easily defeated.. you could have a good safe for that price sometimes
I am an amateur lock picker and when I want to find a decent lock to use I google for lockpicking videos/forums. I usually try to pick the lock for 5 minutes and if it survives I keep it. I've found great deals at walmart using this method.
1. I would recommend going the insurance route because not all safes are equal and no safe is perfect.
2. Think tactical! The second thing you need to do is do an assessment as to who you are trying to keep out (your kids in the house, a burglar, an army) and set a price. Generally speaking electronic safes suck if someone has an inkling as to what to do.. and sometimes the box is lightweight and not tied down to anything so someone can just pick it up and go.
3. I recommend googling any safe you are interested in with the terms "cracked" "picked' or "broken". There are youtube videos, this one isn't necessarily about big gun safes, from defcons like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Yr6ATdaDQ8
Not all safes are created the same. Depending on how expensive/valuable/sentimental something is to you I would give this primer on safes a look http://imgur.com/a/90RYd
I'm not saying people need a superduper whatever to keep their 5 year old from playing curious george.. Locks/safes keep honest people honest but some of those department store safes are huge/expensive and easily defeated.. you could have a good safe for that price sometimes
I am an amateur lock picker and when I want to find a decent lock to use I google for lockpicking videos/forums. I usually try to pick the lock for 5 minutes and if it survives I keep it. I've found great deals at walmart using this method.
DC4OU
Well-Known Fanatic
I looked for a long time before I bought a safe. I had about the same budget as you and I wanted a big safe. You have to decide who you will be trying to keep out. If you are trying to keep out the crack heads, then a mid level safe should do the trick. If you think you will be entertaining a professional thief, then a higher end safe may be in order. I decided a mid level safe would keep out the smash and grabs that might visit my house. I think a professional safe cracker will get in to most of them. Heck, I think a guy with a saw or torch will get in all of them. There is a torch in my garage that I am always afraid they will use, so I put black powder warning stickers on the side of the safe. If you look online, there are a ton of people showing you how to defeat the Academy safes and electronic locks.
I bought a Liberty Safe (Colonial) with lights and power, delivered to my door and bolted down for $2000 during H&H's safe sale. It is big with a nice interior. I got the combination lock because it seemed more secure. At first, I thought I should have gotten an electronic lock due to the time it takes to open it. I get into it a lot and I can open it fast and don't even think about it anymore. I think a professional thief could get in with some time but it will keep my kid's friends and the crack heads out. I was told it it much more secure if it is bolted down because they cannot tip it over use pry bars to open it. I would definitely check out H&H before you buy one. Good luck in your search!
I bought a Liberty Safe (Colonial) with lights and power, delivered to my door and bolted down for $2000 during H&H's safe sale. It is big with a nice interior. I got the combination lock because it seemed more secure. At first, I thought I should have gotten an electronic lock due to the time it takes to open it. I get into it a lot and I can open it fast and don't even think about it anymore. I think a professional thief could get in with some time but it will keep my kid's friends and the crack heads out. I was told it it much more secure if it is bolted down because they cannot tip it over use pry bars to open it. I would definitely check out H&H before you buy one. Good luck in your search!
charger arms
Ask Me About My Cocker Spaniels
If you ever have to pay the amount of money I did to get your S&G electronic lock "cracked" and replaced, you will nevr let your friends buy and electronic lock ever again. I had the other safe replaced at the same time. He was shocked that the model was still working. I now have mechanical dials and won't buy a digital lock ever again.jcameron996 said:
jtischauser
I'm addicted to kicking ass
Definitely get a golden rod for your safe.
What do you guys do for interior lights? Mine came with some battery trash. I need some led strips do it looks like the red dog strip club for guns up in there.
What do you guys do for interior lights? Mine came with some battery trash. I need some led strips do it looks like the red dog strip club for guns up in there.
H&H has strip led lights too I'm pretty sure but you have to have a hole in the safe for power I believe. Some may come with it?
CI policies will cover guns and accessories including optics, mags, belts, holsters, ammo, reloading equip etc...that stuff adds up fast. Most homeowners won't. It's a good idea to make sure you have what you think you have in your current policy before it's too late
CI policies will cover guns and accessories including optics, mags, belts, holsters, ammo, reloading equip etc...that stuff adds up fast. Most homeowners won't. It's a good idea to make sure you have what you think you have in your current policy before it's too late
Jeff T.
Well-Known Fanatic
David Hooper said:
I only open my safe usually once a day. Unless I am cleaning guns.mike cyrwus said:
The hidden locks are not hard to open for me, after the first few times.
Rockon71385
Founding Member
Here's a link to your stripper lights: https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/rgb-bars-and-strips/
That same website carries a ton of good LED lighting products. I really like their LED strips because you can cut whatever length you need, and they stick right to the undersides of the shelves.
That same website carries a ton of good LED lighting products. I really like their LED strips because you can cut whatever length you need, and they stick right to the undersides of the shelves.
Rockon71385
Founding Member
Pretty short and interesting video on safe construction here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LgKThatkjM
I'm thinking if I'm going to go to all the trouble of moving a safe in, I might as well invest in one that's made from pretty heavy plate. I checked on some of the prices from Bear today and they are pretty high. I'm sure they're worth it, but for what I can spend I'm going to have to settle for a pretty small safe. I've also been looking at Sturdy Safes, which I've heard good things about. That video made me really wary of buying a sporting goods store/department style safe.
I'm thinking if I'm going to go to all the trouble of moving a safe in, I might as well invest in one that's made from pretty heavy plate. I checked on some of the prices from Bear today and they are pretty high. I'm sure they're worth it, but for what I can spend I'm going to have to settle for a pretty small safe. I've also been looking at Sturdy Safes, which I've heard good things about. That video made me really wary of buying a sporting goods store/department style safe.
22+1
Well-Known Fanatic
Anyone know about rhino Ironworks safes?
drmitchgibson
The white Morgan Freeman
Dude, no one is going to try and torch or saws-all their way through a safe unless they know what's in it. That takes time and skill, and some expertise. Sounds like a day job. Nearly all burglaries are smash and grab. Buy an economical safe that isn't a shitty footlocker with a fancy paint job, bolt it to the concrete, keep it locked, and don't tell anyone in your neighborhood that you have guns. In your case you could probably bolt it to a floor joist or two. Bigger, pricier safes have a lot more value in terms of fire-rating than protection. With the right saw blade, and two hours or less, any safe is coming right open.
If I were spending serious dough, I'd ask around at lock shops for an old 70s model with tear gas layered between the steel plate. That's usually what jewelers buy to house their wares.
If I were spending serious dough, I'd ask around at lock shops for an old 70s model with tear gas layered between the steel plate. That's usually what jewelers buy to house their wares.
Rockon71385
Founding Member
I'm not worried about saws or torches as much as prybars. Crackheads can get those, from my toolbox even. You're probably right though. Having any safe will probably do the trick against smash and grab types. I'm definitely going to check out what H&H has before I buy.
You might also check Mayfair Key and Lock. I've read that they sometimes have used safes from people who have traded up.
I picked up a safe at Atwoods last year on black Friday. It isn't anything high end, but it fit into the budget at the time and it's much better than no safe.
I picked up a safe at Atwoods last year on black Friday. It isn't anything high end, but it fit into the budget at the time and it's much better than no safe.
Scott Hearn
Well-Known Fanatic
Mitch Gibson said:
Talking to the Browning rep at H&H awhile back, fire is by far the biggest worry. Since there really isn't a common standard (each safe company sets their own pass criteria for the independent labs to go by) it's pretty muddy. Not as bad as it used to be, but one really needs to do their due diligence on the fire ratings between manufacturers. A 30 minute rating on one isn't the same as the 30 minute from another.Robbie said:
Robbie, that last clip you posted up had an Amsec as "the good one". You can tell because their fire insulation is basically poured cement with vermiculite (sp?) mixed in, they pour it in when they make the safe and I think it's 1 or 2 inches thick. The way I see it, that will make it a bit more difficult to saw or pry than gypsum, so it's just icing on the cake.
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