Cerakote

Chris54326 · May 9, 2017

Wall said:
most of the time a slide isn't a firearm, the serialized portion (usually the frame) is considered the firearm.
Also, Powder coat isn't the same as cerakote. Just something to think about.

I got their name from the Cerakote websites applicator locator, so just assumed they did Cerakoting. Guess not.

Chris54326 · May 9, 2017

If I send individual pieces of the broken down firearm, does it have to go through an FFL?????

Wall · May 9, 2017

Chris54326 said:
If I send individual pieces of the broken down firearm, does it have to go through an FFL?????

Yes, if you send the serialized piece which is usually the frame of a pistol or lower receiver of an AR, etc.

What firearm are you wanting to send to someone?

Chris54326 · May 9, 2017

It's a Browning Hi-Power.

Wall · May 9, 2017

It's a Browning Hi-Power.

so yeah, the frame is an FFL item

wgm2011 · May 10, 2017

I didn't know any local folks that do Cerakoting so I went to eBay. Several companies advertise different packages. Even if you do not want to use them it will at least give you an estimate of how much it costs.

I had a Glock slide done up after getting it milled for a Fastfire. They did a nice job and I had it back in less than two weeks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cerakote-Pistol-Slide-Barrel-Black-Multicam-Refinish-Service-Most-Pistols-/141960556678?hash=item210d823086:g:XmwAAOSwkx5XESE0

Chris54326 · May 10, 2017

Everyone I've spoken with or e-mailed back and forth with so far has been in the $200 range. ($170-$225) One thing that's been mentioned to me from people I've actually spoken with is "you get what you pay for". Personally, I've always believed that. I'd just as soon pay a little more to have it done right the first time than have to pay "double" because it has to be done over at another applicator's shop. (I've heard about some of that already)

At this point, I think I'll hop on my little scooter and drive the 2 hours down to Duncan, OK and see what kind of work Keith Stewart at Firearms Solutions does. He was straight forward in his e-mails with me. Said he had a full array of colors available........including the two I wanted.........and enough work in progress to show me examples of his work, so he must be fairly sought after. He quoted me the $170 figure for the two-toned work and he was aware of all the little pieces. One company's website showed they wanted $10 apiece for each tiny piece, like magazine release, slide release, safety, hammer, extractor, etc., and then priced slides and frames on top of that. Guess that's a more efficient way to quote a job, but it ended up making them the highest price........at $225.

I'm glad I'm not in any kind of rush for this project. I can take my time and make the right decisions.

wav3rhythm · May 10, 2017

I've never seen Keith's Cerakote work, but he's a great guy and I have always had good experiences at his shop. I would go there as my first option if I were getting work done.

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Scott Hearn · May 10, 2017

To answer your original question, parkerizing or manganese phosphate coating, is like the textbook perfect substrate to apply cerakote on man.

If I ever did a custom carry gun the perfect combination for ultimate durability would be 4340 steel at about 34 RC hardness, parkerized and cerakoted. Phosphate coatings have a crystalline like matrix surface structure and give the cerakote something to latch onto. And in their own right, phos coatings are great against corrosion, the cerakote adds armor on top of it.

I zinc phosphated a length of chain we cut off of a jib crane hoist, years ago. That thing rode around in my 4X4's bed in the elements for several years and just barely developed some light rust. Manganese is even better.

Your gun will need to be degreased very thoroughly, but they should be doing that anyway. Don't have it stripped!

Wall · May 10, 2017

Josh Cobb said:
I've never seen Keith's Cerakote work, but he's a great guy and I have always had good experiences at his shop. I would go there as my first option if I were getting work done.

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Agreed.
Aside from the obvious secret feelings between him & Derrick (not really all that secret), He's a good dude.

Chris54326 · May 10, 2017

Definitely Deplorable said:
To answer your original question, parkerizing or manganese phosphate coating, is like the textbook perfect substrate to apply cerakote on man.

If I ever did a custom carry gun the perfect combination for ultimate durability would be 4340 steel at about 34 RC hardness, parkerized and cerakoted. Phosphate coatings have a crystalline like matrix surface structure and give the cerakote something to latch onto. And in their own right, phos coatings are great against corrosion, the cerakote adds armor on top of it.

I zinc phosphated a length of chain we cut off of a jib crane hoist, years ago. That thing rode around in my 4X4's bed in the elements for several years and just barely developed some light rust. Manganese is even better.

Your gun will need to be degreased very thoroughly, but they should be doing that anyway. Don't have it stripped!

Okay, so I'm now needing to find someone who won't strip the Parkerizing, huh?

Chris54326 · May 10, 2017

Wall said:
Agreed.
Aside from the obvious secret feelings between him & Derrick (not really all that secret), He's a good dude.

I certainly don't mind doing business with a "good dude".................but does he do good work Cerakoting firearms?

Scott Hearn · May 10, 2017

Chris54326 said:
Okay, so I'm now needing to find someone who won't strip the Parkerizing, huh?

It won't be the end of the world if they do, but it's not preferable.

Chris54326 · May 10, 2017

The guy at Harsh left the impression with me the Parkerizing wouldn't give much "tooth" to the Cerakote..............after I told him I thought it would. He mentioned he wouldn't have to "completely" remove it. Guess he's marked off the list, huh!

Chris54326 · May 10, 2017

I just sent an e-mail to Keith at Firearms Solutions and asked his opinion about the Parkerizing. I'll pass on what he says.

Scott Hearn · May 10, 2017

Chris54326 said:
The guy at Harsh left the impression with me the Parkerizing wouldn't give much "tooth" to the Cerakote..............after I told him I thought it would. He mentioned he wouldn't have to "completely" remove it. Guess he's marked off the list, huh!

Well to be honest Cerakote DOES recommend blasting as a standard procedure. But that's just CYA on their part.

Phosphate Coating & The Phosphating Process
Phosphate coatings are a crystalline conversion coating for steel and other metals that is formed on a ferrous metal substrate. The process of Phosphate coating is employed for the purpose of pretreatment prior to coating or painting, increasing corrosion protection and improving friction properties of sliding components. In other instances, phosphate coatings are applied to threaded parts and top coated with oil (P&O) to add anti-galling and rust inhibiting characteristics.
The phosphating process relies on the basic pickling reaction that occurs on the metal substrate when the process solution comes in contact with the metal. The main benefits that phosphating provides is strong adhesion and corrosion protection. Typically, phosphate coatings used on steel parts but can also be used on aluminum. Metal coatings offers both zinc phosphate and manganese phosphate coating. Our phosphate coatings additionally are offered in both dark gray & black.

http://www.metcoat.com/phosphate-coatings.htm

I used to manage an aerospace finishing shop. We did NDT, anodize, chromate conversion coating, etc. along with the salt fog testing. I assure you that if that park is clean cerakote will stick better than on bare steel and you get a boost against corrosion.

Chris54326 · May 10, 2017

I'll be detail stripping the firearm and will be cleaning the pieces before delivery. De-greasing is the most important goal, so I thought I'd clean the pieces with transmission fluid and then denatured alcohol and deliver in sealed bags. Would that be the right procedure...........or should I just let whatever shop I "finally" decide on do the cleaning?

Wall · May 10, 2017

Chris54326 said:
I certainly don't mind doing business with a "good dude".................but does he do good work Cerakoting firearms?

I can't comment on the cerakote work from his shop, I've not had any experience to that aspect.
But in all other dealings I've had with him, he's been good to do business with & I have no reason to think it'd be any different.

Chris54326 · May 10, 2017

Thanks, Tony. Usually if a guy owns a company and is a stand up kind of guy, he's that way in all he does. But I sure wish I had a long list of people here on the forum who've had him coat their firearms. Jamie Meyer is the only person who says he's done that kind of work for her.

Scott Hearn · May 10, 2017

Chris54326 said:
I'll be detail stripping the firearm and will be cleaning the pieces before delivery. De-greasing is the most important goal, so I thought I'd clean the pieces with transmission fluid and then denatured alcohol and deliver in sealed bags. Would that be the right procedure...........or should I just let whatever shop I "finally" decide on do the cleaning?

Transmission fluid? That just a hydraulic oil. And denatured alcohol is a mild degreaser but won't cut a lot of oil. I'd use MEK or acetone. Your shop should be doing a cleaning as a standard procedure and hopefully it's an immersion process of some sort. It's not optional or a "nice to have", it's mandatory. Any oil or grease and paint won't stick.