What EXACTLY is the “feed ramp” on a 1911? I THOUGHT I knew.

Roszhou

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So, my knowledge of what a "feed ramp" is, is the shiny (supposed to be) bottom of the entrance of the barrel, PART of the bottom of the rear of the barrel itself, some others are talking about something that can be damaged by Chip McCormic mags. I could never see a magazine would ever damage the rear entrance into the barrel. So, are they talking about a "feed ramp" as being the bottom of any barrel that guides the round into the barrel, or some other part I'm not aware of??? So confused. And yes, I want my whatever you call it, the supposed shiny part of the barrel (my new Kimber's isn't shiny there), that guides the round into the barrel, SHINY AND SMOOTH. Not aware of any extra part. Is there?
 

Mike Galway

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So, my knowledge of what a "feed ramp" is, is the shiny (supposed to be) bottom of the entrance of the barrel, PART of the bottom of the rear of the barrel itself, some others are talking about something that can be damaged by Chip McCormic mags. I could never see a magazine would ever damage the rear entrance into the barrel. So, are they talking about a "feed ramp" as being the bottom of any barrel that guides the round into the barrel, or some other part I'm not aware of??? So confused. And yes, I want my whatever you call it, the supposed shiny part of the barrel (my new Kimber's isn't shiny there), that guides the round into the barrel, SHINY AND SMOOTH. Not aware of any extra part. Is there?
Don't want to steer you wrong, but I believe that the spot the barrel ramp rests on the frame is the feed ramp. It's right in front of magazine. Remove slide, install barrel in frame with slide stop and I think you'll see what I mean. If you can, get a copy of Patrick Sweeney's book, Gunsmithing the 1911.
 

CECannonJr

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Don't want to steer you wrong, but I believe that the spot the barrel ramp rests on the frame is the feed ramp. It's right in front of magazine. Remove slide, install barrel in frame with slide stop and I think you'll see what I mean. If you can, get a copy of Patrick Sweeney's book, Gunsmithing the 1911.
Just something to make note of. The typical 1911 feed ramp is part of the frame. A lesser number of 1911's use ramped barrels. You should identify which yours utilizes. The barrel on the left in the photo is ramped. The ramp is part of the frame on the right.


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switchback

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resist the urge to make shiny the frames "feed ramp" ; while expected on a semi custom and full custom, it is not necessary , providing the machining is smooth. The proper angle is critical and changing it can be disastrous.
CECannons' picture is a solid illustration of types.
 

joepistol

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Good post, CECannonJr.. showing the difference between a ramped and unramped barrel.
I'd owned several 1911's for a lot of years before I even learned that some 1911's use ramped barrels.
Not certain on this, but if my memory is working, most 45acp barrels are unramped.. but 9mm, 38 super, ? others, often do use ramped barrels.
Also believe the frames on 1911's that do use a ramped barrel are a little different (due to the ramp) than other 1911 frames that use unramped barrels.
A difficult way of saying, you can't use a ramped barrel on a frame made for a unramped barrel.
Obviously, if someone knows what they're doing, ( i.e. a skilled gunsmith) frames can be altered to work to suite the gun owner's wishes.
But as always...I could be wrong. :) ;)
 

CECannonJr

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Good post, CECannonJr.. showing the difference between a ramped and unramped barrel.
I'd owned several 1911's for a lot of years before I even learned that some 1911's use ramped barrels.
Not certain on this, but if my memory is working, most 45acp barrels are unramped.. but 9mm, 38 super, ? others, often do use ramped barrels.
Also believe the frames on 1911's that do use a ramped barrel are a little different (due to the ramp) than other 1911 frames that use unramped barrels.
A difficult way of saying, you can't use a ramped barrel on a frame made for a unramped barrel.
Obviously, if someone knows what they're doing, ( i.e. a skilled gunsmith) frames can be altered to work to suite the gun owner's wishes.
But as always...I could be wrong. :) ;)
You're exactly right. The ramped frame can be machined to accept a ramped barrel. Calibers other than 45acp more often use ramped barrels. The barrel on the left in the photo appears to be chambered in 9mm. The one on the right appears to be 45acp. The polished area at the bottom of the unramped barrel is a flared barrel throat to assist with feeding. I believe this is what Roszhou was referring to as what he thought the barrel ramp was.
 
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joepistol

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I recall some gunsmiths doing "polished ramps" or " Throating" to allow some unramped 45 cal 1911's to feed some rds.
other than 230gr.Hardball ammo. They'd call it a "ramp" or "throat" job.. and slightly modify the bottom edge, & maybe the sides of the barrel @ it's opening.
I do know that amateur gunsmiths could ruin a barrel, trying to do this , if they didn't know what they were doing. Some material removal was done in the process, then polishing the work to be very smooth, so SWC's or HP ammo would chamber easily.
Again, the angles had to be cut correctly, & finish polished, or it could ruin the barrel & cause jams when rds were attempted to be chambered.
 

Bob Lee

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resist the urge to make shiny the frames "feed ramp" ; while expected on a semi custom and full custom, it is not necessary , providing the machining is smooth. The proper angle is critical and changing it can be disastrous.
CECannons' picture is a solid illustration of types.
 

TXPlt

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Just something to make note of. The typical 1911 feed ramp is part of the frame. A lesser number of 1911's use ramped barrels. You should identify which yours utilizes. The barrel on the left in the photo is ramped. The ramp is part of the frame on the right.


View attachment 10705
Picture's worth a thousand words--this really helps.

The ramped barrel's found on my sub-caliber .38 super (and I suspect several other non-.45 1911s). They CAN prove problematic especially with some types of HP ammo (namely that if a semi-rimmed cartridge partially nose dives due to a mag sitting perhaps too low or with weaker springs it hits at too acute an angle and jams). Getting a mag catch that boosts mag height (if there's enough room to work with) and/or mags with better springs might solve the issue.

One thing I WILL say is NEVER polish a feed ramp unless you're sure you know what you're doing. And go at it slow with whatever you use. Novices with dremels can do great harm to things that are working (but perhaps not as well as someone would like them to). In fact ya might wanna avoid the Dremel entirely.
 

CECannonJr

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Picture's worth a thousand words--this really helps.

The ramped barrel's found on my sub-caliber .38 super (and I suspect several other non-.45 1911s). They CAN prove problematic especially with some types of HP ammo (namely that if a semi-rimmed cartridge partially nose dives due to a mag sitting perhaps too low or with weaker springs it hits at too acute an angle and jams). Getting a mag catch that boosts mag height (if there's enough room to work with) and/or mags with better springs might solve the issue.

One thing I WILL say is NEVER polish a feed ramp unless you're sure you know what you're doing. And go at it slow with whatever you use. Novices with dremels can do great harm to things that are working (but perhaps not as well as someone would like them to). In fact ya might wanna avoid the Dremel entirely.
I would absolutely discourage the use of a Dremel on a 1911 feed ramp. If you must polish a feed ramp, I would suggest nothing more than fine Scotchbrite. And even then, be gentle. A slight change in the angle will be catastrophic.
 

Bob Lee

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Picture's worth a thousand words--this really helps.

The ramped barrel's found on my sub-caliber .38 super (and I suspect several other non-.45 1911s). They CAN prove problematic especially with some types of HP ammo (namely that if a semi-rimmed cartridge partially nose dives due to a mag sitting perhaps too low or with weaker springs it hits at too acute an angle and jams). Getting a mag catch that boosts mag height (if there's enough room to work with) and/or mags with better springs might solve the issue.

One thing I WILL say is NEVER polish a feed ramp unless you're sure you know what you're doing. And go at it slow with whatever you use. Novices with dremels can do great harm to things that are working (but perhaps not as well as someone would like them to). In fact ya might wanna avoid the Dremel entirely.
I just picked up a beautiful Springfield LW today. It's an older one w/o a ramped barrel. I've been looking for one like this for a long time. Someone has polished the anodizing off the feed ramp. I have a l/w Commander that's the same way. I'm hoping the Springfield will work as well as the Colt does. If not I have two choices, have the frame re anodized, or have a steel ramp insert put in it. I really wish folks would leave the anodized ramps alone. I will live with whatever the outcome is. I have some mags that wont beat up the ramp, so I should be good to go! Looks like it was shot very little, so should be fine.
 

Snowman45

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On a Government Model-sized 1911, the frame ramp angle is 31.5 degrees with a 1/32" gap between the edge of the barrel ramp and the ramped portion of the barrel. In a Commander-sized gun, it's 29 degrees. As has been said above, the angles are critical to ensure proper feeding, so it's best to know what you're doing if you plan to polish the frame ramp.
 

zedfrompulpfiction

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Jan 31, 2022
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here's some pics of the frame
What company made it?
I got a " blem " deal on gun broker . Com. the description didn't mention anything about the feed ramp. I guess I should have seen it,but you can't find what you're not looking for...
 

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