M
Mitch Harrington
Guest
.....
mike cyrwus
.223
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2010
- Messages
- 4,827
heres some of my data; use it at your own risk,.
This is out of a 5" 1911 40sw
200gr JK
4.2gr WST 200g lead JK 40sw
1.175"oal fed spp
175pf
4.1gr WST 200g lead JK 40sw
1.175"oal fed spp
172.6pf
4.0gr WST 200g lead JK 40sw
1.175"oal fed spp
170.7pf
180gr JK
4.0g WST 1.17"oal Aug 19
JK lead 180gr
156.3pf
The moral of the story is to always work up loads from at least .5g under someones advertised max load,
and it theres a big difference in OAL (overall length), then all bets are off.
NEVER adjust OAL to hotten up a load; especially on fast type powders like were talking about.
OAL should only be what it is according to what a particular gun (is designed to safely handle)
If you are doing a M&P40 4", then I would use Mitch's glock load, and start out at about 3.5g.
You cant extrapolate any kind of linear equation for how much powder will give corresponding velocity.
Its important to be able to identify brass for high pressure signs, but even so, it is not always telling.
Also, never guess as to velocity, every reloader need a chronograph, or a friend who has one.
mike
This is out of a 5" 1911 40sw
200gr JK
4.2gr WST 200g lead JK 40sw
1.175"oal fed spp
175pf
4.1gr WST 200g lead JK 40sw
1.175"oal fed spp
172.6pf
4.0gr WST 200g lead JK 40sw
1.175"oal fed spp
170.7pf
180gr JK
4.0g WST 1.17"oal Aug 19
JK lead 180gr
156.3pf
The moral of the story is to always work up loads from at least .5g under someones advertised max load,
and it theres a big difference in OAL (overall length), then all bets are off.
NEVER adjust OAL to hotten up a load; especially on fast type powders like were talking about.
OAL should only be what it is according to what a particular gun (is designed to safely handle)
If you are doing a M&P40 4", then I would use Mitch's glock load, and start out at about 3.5g.
You cant extrapolate any kind of linear equation for how much powder will give corresponding velocity.
Its important to be able to identify brass for high pressure signs, but even so, it is not always telling.
Also, never guess as to velocity, every reloader need a chronograph, or a friend who has one.
mike
[quote author=mike cyrwus link=topic=76.msg1803#msg1803 date=1286412888]If you are doing a M&P40 4", then I would use Mitch's glock load, and start out at about 3.5g.
You cant extrapolate any kind of linear equation for how much powder will give corresponding velocity.
Its important to be able to identify brass for high pressure signs, but even so, it is not always telling.
Also, never guess as to velocity, every reloader need a chronograph, or a friend who has one.[/quote]
Thanks dude.
I actually just loaded the last of the nines I got when I got the press. Love the 550. Super easy. Won't have the chance to make it to the range before my 3 matches this weekend
, but I'll try them in Mcloud Sunday morning. Also very pleased with my Lyman 1200 tumbler. Used mineral spirits, half a dryer sheet, and half a cap of Nufinish. Brass looked like new in an hour and a half.
I'm freakin' paranoid as hell when it comes to reloads. I probably checked 50% of these for weight, OAL & size. No problems at all. Pretty encouraging.
Can someone elaborate on what the signs of overpressure are?
You cant extrapolate any kind of linear equation for how much powder will give corresponding velocity.
Its important to be able to identify brass for high pressure signs, but even so, it is not always telling.
Also, never guess as to velocity, every reloader need a chronograph, or a friend who has one.[/quote]
Thanks dude.
I actually just loaded the last of the nines I got when I got the press. Love the 550. Super easy. Won't have the chance to make it to the range before my 3 matches this weekend
, but I'll try them in Mcloud Sunday morning. Also very pleased with my Lyman 1200 tumbler. Used mineral spirits, half a dryer sheet, and half a cap of Nufinish. Brass looked like new in an hour and a half.I'm freakin' paranoid as hell when it comes to reloads. I probably checked 50% of these for weight, OAL & size. No problems at all. Pretty encouraging.
Can someone elaborate on what the signs of overpressure are?
Bruno2
Active Fanatic
[quote author=Chambers link=topic=76.msg1786#msg1786 date=1286409056]
Cool. I'm going to try this is my M&P next week! Tumbling my first load of brass right now...pretty exciting.
My Lyman 1200 is loud as hell.
[/quote]
Excellent tumbler choice . Probably one of the best made. I have one that was made in the early 80's . I have probably tumbled thousands of pieces of brass in that thing and not a lick of trouble with it.
Cool. I'm going to try this is my M&P next week! Tumbling my first load of brass right now...pretty exciting.
My Lyman 1200 is loud as hell.
[/quote]
Excellent tumbler choice . Probably one of the best made. I have one that was made in the early 80's . I have probably tumbled thousands of pieces of brass in that thing and not a lick of trouble with it.
[quote author=mike cyrwus link=topic=76.msg1803#msg1803 date=1286412888]If you are doing a M&P40 4", then I would use Mitch's glock load, and start out at about 3.5g.[/quote]
Shot ~300 of these tonight. 100% of the 40s that I reloaded wouldn't drop all the way into the chamber freely, but when I racked the slide fully they went into battery fine, so I kept loading them. Didn't have any failures tonight...is this common with the caliber? My RCBS dies obviously don't size the entire case.
This old M&P40 has got a ton of life left in it -- was hitting great at 25 yards. I'm going to shoot the piss out of it.
I can say that I've never bought nor fired a SINGLE factory .40S&W cartridge.
Shot ~300 of these tonight. 100% of the 40s that I reloaded wouldn't drop all the way into the chamber freely, but when I racked the slide fully they went into battery fine, so I kept loading them. Didn't have any failures tonight...is this common with the caliber? My RCBS dies obviously don't size the entire case.
This old M&P40 has got a ton of life left in it -- was hitting great at 25 yards. I'm going to shoot the piss out of it.
I can say that I've never bought nor fired a SINGLE factory .40S&W cartridge.
Bruno2
Active Fanatic
Are you using a standard resizing die or carbide? Also are you having problems with the crimp? maybe that's why you were having the drop in problem.
[quote author=Bruno2 link=topic=76.msg2324#msg2324 date=1287116881]
Are you using a standard resizing die or carbide? Also are you having problems with the crimp? maybe that's why you were having the drop in problem.
[/quote]
Carbide. No trouble with the crimp, cases are just fat at the end. I figure if it's not broken, don't fix it, but if I start having problems it will have to change...
Are you using a standard resizing die or carbide? Also are you having problems with the crimp? maybe that's why you were having the drop in problem.
[/quote]
Carbide. No trouble with the crimp, cases are just fat at the end. I figure if it's not broken, don't fix it, but if I start having problems it will have to change...
mike cyrwus
.223
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2010
- Messages
- 4,827
if you see one that doesnt go in all the way, wipe the case rim down, there may be some wax from the bullet keeping it from plunking down the chamber.
M
Mitch Harrington
Guest
I suspect you are talking about bulges at the base of the brass. This is not uncommon with .40S&W brass. I used a Redding GRX push thru die to take the bulge out and then use a EGW U-die as my decapper/resizer. Using this process I have NEVER had a round fail to chamber. I don't even case guage my match ammo any longer!
WhiteyMacD
Founding Member
Im stealing this one.
And another +1 on the GRx die. I run all my .40 through that on a rockchucker then through the normal Dillon sizing die on a 550 and never had an issue with a factory barrel.
Now, if you are using brass that has been "glocked" in a factory barrel and using the above (GRx then Dillon), I get hit and misses with chambering in a KKM (problem solved by keeping my factory barreled brass seperate from my KKMed brass.
Bruno2
Active Fanatic
+1 on the redding stuff. They are truly a competition based company. I have 223 Redding competition dies. The seater has the micrometer adjustment. The resizing dies use the bushing for neck sizing.
I ordered Lee factory crimp dies for both 9mm and 40S&W to put into the fourth station on my 550. I had a 9mm cartridge not go all the way into battery at the Pro Am Saturday, which is the first out of about 500 I've shot. Still no trouble with the 40, surprisingly. I think these will knock it down to a damn near negligible level.
technetium-99m
Mighty Righty
I've found that lead 40 cal bullets of the TC design will be kind of funky as to seating septh and chambering in some guns due to the profile. It's just not the same as a RN or any jacketed bullet.
With a standard Clymer reamer I can not seat lead TC bullets out to 1.185 which is the length my guns like to feed. I have to take a throating reamer and run it down a bit until there is enough room for that fat .401 chunk of lead. It still headspaces correctly and will shoot JHP's just as well.
Note that this is for my 1911 pattern guns in 40, 1.185 is not anywhere close to a normal 40 OAL and will not even fit in your M&P's magazine. What I am saying is that you may have to play with your seating depth to ensure the shoulder of the TC bullet isn't affecting the way cartridges chamber.
As far as glocked brass, with big match ammo I'll run the cases through a G-Rx first just for peace of mind. I use a little bit of GT's special Dillon knock off lube on them and it makes the process go as smooth as butter.
With a standard Clymer reamer I can not seat lead TC bullets out to 1.185 which is the length my guns like to feed. I have to take a throating reamer and run it down a bit until there is enough room for that fat .401 chunk of lead. It still headspaces correctly and will shoot JHP's just as well.
Note that this is for my 1911 pattern guns in 40, 1.185 is not anywhere close to a normal 40 OAL and will not even fit in your M&P's magazine. What I am saying is that you may have to play with your seating depth to ensure the shoulder of the TC bullet isn't affecting the way cartridges chamber.
As far as glocked brass, with big match ammo I'll run the cases through a G-Rx first just for peace of mind. I use a little bit of GT's special Dillon knock off lube on them and it makes the process go as smooth as butter.
technetium-99m
Mighty Righty
I have no use for the Lee FCD. I have extreme use for the undersize Lee dies that EGW sells. Those are cool beans.
So I got the EGW u-die, too, and it takes care of the bulged case problem 99.5% of the time. Lately, though, I have still been having the gun not go into battery because of a REALLY stuck case, usually requiring 5 - 10 seconds to clear. It's happened at least once at the last 3 matches I've shot. At Ponca last weekend, Mitch noticed that my bullets weren't seating perfectly square.
I chamber checked the leftover rounds I had loaded for this weekend and 25% wouldn't plunk all the way in! Gave the factory crimp die another half turn for a pretty heavy crimp, ran the ones that wouldn't chamber check through it again, and wallah...problem solved.
Thank god!! This was getting very frustrating.
So basically...EGW U-die + Lee factory crimp die appears to be the ticket, at least for me.
Scott Hearn
Well-Known Fanatic
Redding GRx CARBIDE die is the ticket. I've had a couple of cases that would not go through it. Reason was that the glock bulge was so bad it was folding over in the die instead of squeezing back down! The last firing was very close to a case head separation. Don't think I'd have found them using any other die.
Also I don't case gage them. There's not a reason in the world to do it that I can see. I have gaged them in the past, but never found a reject, so I quit. I just crimp with a Hornady taper crimp die.
Also I don't case gage them. There's not a reason in the world to do it that I can see. I have gaged them in the past, but never found a reject, so I quit. I just crimp with a Hornady taper crimp die.
