AR build help

Well the last of the parts I need arrive tomorrow from brownells. For the most parts I am fully confident in my ability to build this thing. However, I am looking for any tipa, tricks, advice, for installing the barrel and installing/clocking my surefire break. Those are the only parts I am nervous about.
 
Josh Beauchamp said:
Well the last of the parts I need arrive tomorrow from brownells. For the most parts I am fully confident in my ability to build this thing. However, I am looking for any tipa, tricks, advice, for installing the barrel and installing/clocking my surefire break. Those are the only parts I am nervous about.
I like to take some lapping compound on the barrel nut and spin it on the barrel extension to make both of those surfaces perfectly smooth. I also take a diamond stone to the face of the receiver where the barrel fits. Just to smooth up that surface as well. Then when you put on the barrel, I like to use something slick like ARP assembly lube or even anti-seize on the threads of the barrel nut and also on the barrel extension surface where the barrel nut mates. This makes sure you get a proper torque and its not just binding of the metal. Then I go hand tight and then take it to the next hole that will line up. That's tight enough.
 
Once I finally got hands on with a few, IMO the Samson evo was the best. The Troy and Yankee hill Todd Jarrett rails where a close 2nd and 3rd. The Troy was only better than the YHM because the YHM had prepositioned integrated rails. I prefer the freedom the Samson and Troy offer.
 
I'm no barrel install expert. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know about which is why I have Accurate Iron install mine.

Clocking comps is easy. Getcha a few crush washers and put the comp on. You're gonna want the top if the comp pointed away from your support hand. Experiment with different positions. Or just shoot it straight up for awhile and see how it goes first.
 
Jesse Tischauser said:
I'm confused. Are you saying the Samson hand guard is cheap?
No I am not saying they are cheap. Went these companies went looking for the forearms they went to say three companies for bids. Because Samson could product more they can sell them at a lower price to the companies. All companies go out for bid on products so saying one company is better than this because Colt , DD and Stag uses them is just crazy. Just my two cents.
 
Rick Honey said:
No I am not saying they are cheap. Went these companies went looking for the forearms they went to say three companies for bids. Because Samson could product more they can sell them at a lower price to the companies. All companies go out for bid on products so saying one company is better than this because Colt , DD and Stag uses them is just crazy. Just my two cents.
That would make sense for any company to do. But it sounds like you're saying that they picked a less expensive hand guard over the best hand guard which is definitely not the case with the Samson product.

The hand guards mentioned are all very similar in function. Why wouldn't a company choose the one that makes them the most money if everything else is equal? Stag for instance definitely didn't pick the cheapest stock or trigger.
 
Jesse Tischauser said:
That would make sense for any company to do. But it sounds like you're saying that they picked a less expensive hand guard over the best hand guard which is definitely not the case with the Samson product.

The hand guards mentioned are all very similar in function. Why wouldn't a company choose the one that makes them the most money if everything else is equal? Stag for instance definitely didn't pick the cheapest stock or trigger.
No Jesse I am saying they went with the LOW bid . And on the stock and trigger maybe they didn't go out for bid but I am dam sure they got the parts a hell of a lot cheaper than we can get them. So say you went out and bought ten thousand you would get them cheaper than me buying two thousand.
 
Well there I am assembly my lower. I am installing the bolt catch and I get the bold catch retaining pin about 1/3 to 1/2 how the way through and It just stops moving. I also notice that the bolt catch feels like it is glued in place because it won't move either. So with a generous amount of elbow grease, with some elbow grease borrowed from my dad I manage to get the pin back out. I am looking over the bolt catch and I notice the hole the retaining pin goes through has what looks like either a burr or just metal left from bad machining in the hole. I get the hole smoothed out with a drill and a good metal drill bit but wouldn't you know it? The #^(%!*@ retaining pin/roll pin is now bet and is freaking worthless. There is a law enforcement supply store/gun shop here in Lawton that I will check with tomorrow. If that doesn't pan out I will check Academy on the off chance they have a small parts/pin kit or Murf's gun in Duncan. I managed to get the rest of the lower assembled and it looks great with my Bravo Company Gunfighter grip and Magpul UBR in place finally. I am sending my upper, barrel, gas block, and gas tube to Mike at Accurate Iron tomorrow to get him to work his magic.

I will say this though. The trigger is a little heavy but between the Fail Zero hammer and the hammer spring in the Palmetto State LPK I am damn sure not going to have a light primer strike. I have fired a few ARs. not to mention the many M-16s and M-4s I fired in my 8 years in the Reserves/Guard but this is the heaviest damn hammer I have ever felt.
 
Installing the bolt catch is my least favorite part of the lower assembly process. You have to get the roll pin started and then move around the bolt catch until the roll pin is started in the hole in the bolt catch and then drive the pin the rest of the way. It's easy to be trying to drive the pin in but it not be in the hole in the bolt catch and hit the side of the bolt catch. You can use a 5/64" drill bit on the other side to kind of act like a slave pin and keep the bolt catch aligned while you drive in the pin. I put a couple layers of masking tape on the lower while driving this pin in so I don't scratch it.

The bolt catch roll pin is 3/32" in diameter and 7/16" long. You might be able to find one 1/2" long and file the length down a bit and then chamfer the ends. I'd think you could find one at Home Depot/Lowes or almost any decent hardware store.

I don't have any experience with the Fail Zero hammers, but the FCGs in the PSA LPKs suck. Long, gritty and heavy trigger pull. I've started ordering LPKs without the FCG because the trigger pull is so bad and I'd end up upgrading the trigger anyway.
 
Josh, You could check with Jon at Cache Creek Fly Shop. I'll bet he would have the pin you need.
 
Sounds like every time I try to assemble a lower. My lack of patience combined with lack of ability usually requires my to order two LPK's to get the job done right.
 
Checked Cache Creek Fly shop he was out but sent me to Sanders hardware who had a bunch of roll pins of all sizes so thanks for the heads up Raford. Mike at Accurate Iron should get my upper and barrel tomorrow so hopefully I will have them back next week and finally have my baby put together. Just have to pick out what optic I want.
 
It seems like everyone always loses a roll pin or a plunger on their build. I would recommend that anyone who builds their own rifle to go on lwrc or armalite's web site and order some extra of these commonly lost parts. Spending twenty bucks and having plenty of spare goodies will save a lot of heart ache when you have that freshy build nearly done and then launch a spring into the carpet abbyyis. Just be aware that some parts are proprietary ie: lwrc bolt catch. Anyway just my two cents. Maybe save someone from running out and dropping 60 bucks on a parts kit just for one roll pin.
 
Josh Beauchamp said:
I actually plan on getting a couple sets of spare parts just to have around.
Good idea. I keep a couple LPKs and a bolt and BCG or two spare in my parts bin. I keep enough on hand to build a couple more rifles with the exception of furniture and barrels.
 
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