Just order brownells hot salt blue system

  • Thread starter Thread starter DurningDefenseCustomsLLC
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DurningDefenseCustomsLLC

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Does anyone out there have any experiance with hot salt bluing?

I have always out sourced to Glenrock, but in a attempted to speed up lead times I will be bluing, parkerizing and coating in house now.

Thanks in advance,

Anthony Durning
 
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Not specifically, but it's not hard. Believe it or not I cold blued some very large missile assembly jigs in a PVC lined 12' cattle tank. The solution was a Birchwood Casey product spec'd by the contract, I don't recall the specific number, but it was just cold blue.
The hardest part is making sure your parts a perfectly clean before going in and that your tank solution doesn't get contaminated. Use de-ionized (best) or at least reverse osmosis treated water to make up your solution and keep it covered when not in use.
 
I do. I use the oxynate 7 stuff. usually matte or satin. Ive not tried to do any high polish stuff, because its so labor intensive, and when you come right down to it, bluing is a marginally protective finish. What else do you want to know?
 
You should do the old-style Colt bluing:

wr8ID.jpg


Though I think the process involves cyanide so some liberal might pitch a cat lady fit about it.
 
poopgiggle said:
You should do the old-style Colt bluing:

wr8ID.jpg


Though I think the process involves cyanide so some liberal might pitch a cat lady fit about it.
Click to expand...

Absolutely beautiful pistol. A properly blued pistol is something to be admired. Is that the original finish on that 1911? If not, who did the bluing?
 
Dustin Cantrell said:
Absolutely beautiful pistol. A properly blued pistol is something to be admired. Is that the original finish on that 1911? If not, who did the bluing?
Click to expand...

I have no idea; I just found that through GIS. The old Colt blue like they had on Pythons was just awesome though.

dennishoddy said:
Werd. Not acceptable.
Click to expand...

I mean there are some crazy mad science coatings like IonBond and whatever Les Baer puts in the SRP, which seem fine, but those are probably too much for Rainman to do in-house.
 
I would love to do colt blue but smith and colt have proprietary rights over there chemical compounds, I now a lot of old colts had charcoal bluing but that process is a well kept secret in a small circle of smiths.

Thanks for the info mike, I was just looking for an ticks of the trade stuff, I have heard about different compounds being added to no.07 and getting different effects, hues and depth etc..

As for cera-kote and high dollar customs, I have done a few with it, hell if you park'ed the gun and use cera-kote over it, you can't remove that stuff with a screw-driver... :) I garr-on-tee! but most people dont know that parkerizing is a primer, not a finish, unless your the government. :drag:

and Jesse I did not sorry, had to call them for purchases over 2k, because of my bank, not brownell, but I will start...yep.

Where the hell is Kurt, I have not had a good pissing contest in weeks...haha :codemafia:

As for bluing missile jigs, I have a few licenses but not those kind...haha, that must have been some cool work.
 
the main thing, is when you have to lower ejection ports or blend parts to a blued gun, I dont want to have to quote 3 weeks turnaround.
 
Brother Durning, you are correct about the park being a good base. I've done a bit of that too. Manganese phosphate which is the "real" parkerizing is fantastic against corrosion. I once had to install a new jib crane and the chain on the hoist was way too long. I cut about 20' off of it and manganese phosphated it. I then threw it in the back of my old 4X4 truck's bed. It went over a year before it showed any sign of rust. They later switched to zinc phosphate because it has better anti-galling properties. It doesn't get as dark as the manganese and seems to have a smoother surface finish.

From what I have seen, the deep deep blue that you see on old school S&Ws and Colts does have something to do with the recipe, but mostly it's the polishing and prep work before hand. The heat treat condition and carbon content of the steel plays a big roll too.
 
that would be a caspain hi-cap frame, not a modular 2011 frame, with skateboard tape........ :gaming:

Scott,

I have heard the rumors of whale oil based, furnace treated, leather and bone additives,in old school colt and smith bluing. I would love to recreate a Dan Wesson blue, I have a couple of revolvers and they are just breath taking.

I like Maganese parking myself; I always seem to get a more even coat on the top finish (cera-kote, GK etc..) with it over a zinc based under-coat.

And take it easy on Poop, you dont want to get his jimmy rustled! :sarcastichand: Just kidding....
 
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