Sold/Expired WTB Reloading Equipment

Wildcat · Oct 31, 2013

I think I am going start reloading some of the more unique calibers I shoot because the commercial stuff never seems to be available with the projectiles I want. Right now, I have nothing, so I need to start somewhere. I know everyone will suggest a 650, but I don't really need a progressive for what I want to load. I am thinking about getting the hornady lock-n-load single stage kit. It comes with some equipment, but I need everything.

Thought I would see if anyone had stuff they weren't using they might want to sell. (Tumbler, case trimmer, dies in 6.8, 300 BO, 223, 308, 9, 40...yes I know some of those aren't unique)

I live up in KS so it would most likely have to be shipped unless someone has a bunch of stuff at a good enough price to justify $75 in gas.

Thanks!

Bob Sanders · Nov 1, 2013

Maybe look at the Hornady turret press. I think you can get a fairly complete setup from some of the online retailers. And keep an eye out for a used single stage press as well. You will use the single stage for a lot of prep work and the turret for actual hand loading.

Wildcat · Nov 1, 2013

Well, more research last night has me leaning toward a progressive...I can buy the set up and then expand on it over time. I'm not going to be making 1000s of rounds a month though so I don't know that I need the Cadillac. I might just keep my eye on the classified here and on Enos to see if a progressive comes up for a reasonable price.

Corey · Nov 1, 2013

Minimum progressive 550 or hornady LNL & watch for a single stage rockchucker or equivalent
Rifle rounds I run my single stage & RCBS chargemaster
I felt like I dropped $500-600 getting setup to load long range on single stage then discovered 3 gun, 8 mo later I got the hornady lnl progressive loader & case feeder for $500 spending another 300 on dies & accessories.
It is the little stuff that adds up fast.
Good luck reloading, itshe is expensive starting out but it was great to have when bullets were hard to get.
If you have any questions you can pm me for a phone #
H&H advise was read a reloading manual that was step one.
The guy that helped me get started circled everything in a Sinclair catalog & I ordered from there.
Reloading is like going to the gym lots of equipment and techniques I still use everything I purchased
There are some great guys on this site so keep posting questions & thoughts

Wildcat · Nov 1, 2013

Thanks For the info Corey! Right now I am thinking about the 550 or the LNL. Both seem to have pluses and minuses.

I was reading that a lot of people size bottle necked brass on a single stage and trim before putting it on a progressive. Is this just due to it being easier?

Your note about the manuals is right on. My uncle let me borrow his hornady and Speer books and I have been reading through them over the last couple weeks.

Other then here and Enos, are there any other places anyone would suggest looking for a used press?

Matt1911 · Nov 1, 2013

Matt Washburn said:
Other then here and Enos, are there any other places anyone would suggest looking for a used press?

Hate to say it, but okshooters.com
They always have presses on sale there cause nobody over there shoots enough to justify having em.

drmitchgibson · Nov 1, 2013

Matt Washburn said:
I was reading that a lot of people size bottle necked brass on a single stage and trim before putting it on a progressive. Is this just due to it being easier?

I was doing that last year. I started from scratch (sort of) learning to reload .223, and ended up spending at least 9 hours to make 400 rounds, the vast majority of that time processing brass. Resizing as one step, trimming on a manual trimmer, deburr/chamfer, chamfer primer pocket to remove crimp. A couple of those hours were removing stuck cases from the sizing die, because Hornady One-Shot is truly mediocre. Lanolin in alcohol is what you want for lube. Haven't had one stuck case with lanolin.
Several weeks ago I got the RT1200, and it made processing unbelievably fast. I use a 550. I put the RT1200 in a tool head in station 3, and a resize/decap die on station 1. Using that setup for processing, I was able to resize and trim 2500 .223 in three hours.

Wildcat · Nov 1, 2013

I think I've decided on a Hornady LNL AP as well as getting the single stage press.

Just need to keep my eyes out for a used one.

jeffhughes · Nov 1, 2013

Matt Washburn said:
I think I've decided on a Hornady LNL AP as well as getting the single stage press.

Just need to keep my eyes out for a used one.

There are a bunch of LNL APs out there that do not index properly. I know of 4 first hand.

I'd go Blue...

dennishoddy · Nov 1, 2013

If they aren't indexing properly, they aren't set up correctly.

Bob Sanders · Nov 1, 2013

Blue!

Edit: I need to add I have no experience with LNL. But the best thing I ever did was replace the Lee Loadmaster with a 550 Dillion

brandt9913 · Nov 2, 2013

Go with a single stage press. Just pick one RCBS, Hornady, Lee, etc.

And then get a dillon. The difference in dillon vs hornady is like cadillac vs Chevy. But the Cadillac (Dillon or blue) has a lifetime warranty.

jeffhughes · Nov 2, 2013

dennishoddy said:
If they aren't indexing properly, they aren't set up correctly.

I don't know, I never could make my LNL AP work no matter what. Endless hours with Hornady Customer Service. They basically told me I was an idiot.

The guys I know that still have them index by hand. I've asked two major Hornady retailers and they admit that there was a major run that had problems.

I have three Dillon 1050s that run flawlessly.

gondo · Nov 2, 2013

jeffhughes said:
There are a bunch of LNL APs out there that do not index properly. I know of 4 first hand.

I'd go Blue...

X2 I haven't seen a one that the priming is reliable

gondo · Nov 2, 2013

brandt9913 said:
Go with a single stage press. Just pick one RCBS, Hornady, Lee, etc.

And then get a dillon. The difference in dillon vs hornady is like cadillac vs Chevy. But the Cadillac (Dillon or blue) has a lifetime warranty.

X2 get you a rock chucker to learn on... Then a Dillon 650

Scott Hearn · Nov 2, 2013

Here are my thoughts. If you go for a progressive it sounds like a 550 would suit your needs. I went to a 650 from a LNL. Had I just bought the 650 from the start I'd have been money ahead.

You need to consider that with the 550, a casefeeder upgrade later will only do pistol calibers. No rifle. I promise that you don't want to process and load .223 for 3 gun without a casefeeder but it can be done. Now the 2nd reason that I ditched my LNL for a 650 was the casefeeder. It was just plastic super cheap crap that dropped as almost as much brass on my head as it did down the tube where it was supposed to go. The 1st reason was primer seating was just not cutting it, it would not drive a large primer to bottom and there was nothing wrong with the press, the primer seating punch would go well into the pocket without a primer to feed. It was just not going to work for me.

There is another option for your rifle calibers. A Redding T7 turret press. I also have one and you can keep a couple of sets of dies setup and ready to go. They are built strong enough that you AND you children won't wear it out. I'd consider a 550 for small rifle and pistol plus a T7 a very nice setup that will do almost anything you might want to do.

Wildcat · Nov 3, 2013

Thanks for the info Scott! On a 550 or 660, how easy is it to change out the powder? I have read you need to change the shell plate and the tool head (or at least change everything outbox the tool head) but I haven't heard much about changing powders.

Wall · Nov 3, 2013

Matt Washburn said:
Thanks for the info Scott! On a 550 or 660, how easy is it to change out the powder? I have read you need to change the shell plate and the tool head (or at least change everything outbox the tool head) but I haven't heard much about changing powders.

pull 2 pins, remove tool head, dump powder into appropriate container, fill with powder of choice.

drmitchgibson · Nov 3, 2013

You also need to put the measure back on and throw into an empty case a few times to get out what powder is left. The empty case needs to have a primer in it. Unless you just like spilling gunpowder.

Wall · Nov 3, 2013

Mitch Gibson said:
You also need to put the measure back on and throw into an empty case a few times to get out what powder is left. The empty case needs to have a primer in it. Unless you just like spilling gunpowder.

I just cycle the charge bar into the container