Working on gritty AR trigger

rotarymike

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All milspec bits, I think the lower kit is a PSA. MUCH grittier than my Olympic trigger set in the other gun. Going to try some polishing compound, but I don't have high hopes. Anything I can do (other than buy another trigger) to smooth this one out?

I've done my due diligence online, and unless my google-fu is broken all I see are replacement with aftermarket triggers or cutting/modifying the springs.
 
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The last thing you should do is start cutting springs or using polishing compound on locking surfaces. Unless you are experienced, all this will accomplish is to create a potentially unsafe firearm that will most likely become unreliable at some point later, if not from the outset.

That said, best thing is to take it to a good gunsmith and let them deal with it. If you're the type that can't leave it alone (trust me, I understand) you can try using a small *fine* hone stone to touch up the contact surfaces of the trigger mechanism. Not files, not emory, not a polishing wheel....a hone stone. The key thing is to pay attention....unless you've done this sort of thing before, it is super easy to get your angle relationships of the stone/parts off just slightly, which again will create an unreliable mechanism. By unreliable, I mean a gun that may or may not fire, fire bursts, or fire uncontrollably. Good luck, and do at your own risk.
 
It's more about learning why the parts have the gritty feel, and how to fix it. If I just wanted it fixed I'd just buy a RR National Match. I'm never fond of fiddling with springs - I'd rather buy new springs, like I did with my Sig, instead of 'modifying' a spring under tension.

I'll be careful, I don't want to remove the hardened layer, change the angle between trigger and hammer, or make a gun that doesn't lock properly. If I do, well, stock trigger and hammer aren't very expensive, and I'd rather buy new ones than have an iffy lower.

Point of this question was more like this: I've compared the trigger surfaces between my Oly trigger (again, a basic lower parts kit trigger) and the PSA one and I don't see or feel a difference in the engagement surfaces. Same with the hammers. But when assembled the PSA trigger group feels like it has boulders in it, and the Oly has a nice crisp break - some creep, as any MilSpec trigger will have, but smooth not crunchy.
 
How many rounds have you fired with the guns? I have seen bad triggers get a lot better with usage...

Does your OLY have lots of use and the PSA trigger very few...

Just kind of thinking out loud...

Steve
 
The Oly has about 1000 rounds across it. The PSA maybe half that. I hoped it would smooth up with use but that doesn't seem to be the case.
 
Geissele tunes ALG triggers, and you can get a ACT trigger for about $65. It'll give you a consistent 6lb pull which will be much more smooth and crisp.

That's a cool bit cheaper than a full blown Geissele or custom work and a guaranteed improvement versus the "15 minute trigger job" you can google. I wouldn't recommend clipping and bending your springs. Polishing compound might smooth things up some but one small mistake and you'll be looking at failure to fire problems, as the hammer won't strike the firing pin with enough force to fire the round.

I am a Geissele fan but for good reason. I run the SSA-E and the two-stage is amazing. Super light overall pull, distinct stages, grit-free draw back and stage 2 breaks consistently and gently.
 
I am morally adverse to spending more on a trigger than I did on the receiver. :)

I've tried the bent spring thing when I was in the USAF - all we had to do if we borked it up was ask for some new springs. It does lighten the overall trigger pull, but does not inspire confidence. With an M16 bolt carrier (full diameter rear section) it seemed to work OK, but when we put a semi-auto BC in there it didn't kick the hammer enough to make it latch the disconnector back properly. So second round the trigger was basically stuck.
 
rotarymike said:
I am morally adverse to spending more on a trigger than I did on the receiver. :)


For the Geissele trigger ($170+)? Or the ALG ($65)? The ALG is a solid affordable upgrade. The Geissele, however expensive, is worth the cost.
 
rotarymike said:
I am morally adverse to spending more on a trigger than I did on the receiver. :)
Then you shall never know the joy of a great trigger in an AR.

Hell I've considered a Geissele for my M16 - now that's some crazy talk!
 
Clicker said:
Then you shall never know the joy of a great trigger in an AR.

A strong possibility. None of my ARs are, or likely will be, designed for long-range accuracy. When I start buying the Magpul PRS, matched receivers and looking at bipods I will then be shopping for a trigger pack.

I guess my frustration stems from the fact that my Olympic parts set is so much smoother and crisper. I think I may simply go that route (buy an Oly trigger and hammer) as it would considerably cheaper, and replicate the result I'm looking for. Looking at the PSA trigger very closely, it looks a little rough. The hammer engagement surface looks OK.

I suppose it could also be the pin holes of either being drilled canted even a few thousandths. I've not tried the Oly parts kit in the PSA lower... my other lower is a "Sharps" from RGuns years ago.
 
+1 on the Geissele ALG. Can't be beat for the price.

On my "crappy" stock triggers I've always done the following:

1. Dab of JB bore cleaner on the sear and engagement surfaces. Dry fire 50+ times.
2. Remove the trigger and clean the crap out of it with CLP or your choice of cleaner. Get that JB out!
3. REPLACE the trigger springs with Wolf springs light springs. About $10, minor improvement in pull. Agree 100% with above, DON'T CLIP SPRINGS.
4. Reassemble and reinstall trigger. Add just a dab of grease, something like areoshell #6 or plain old lithium grease like you find at Auto Zone to the sear / engagement surface.

Cheap, safe, results in a smoother and lighter trigger. Be aware if you or someone else grinds surfaces, you can wear through the hardened coat into soft metal and you're screwed. Something well-known to be marginal quality to begin with (like RRA, oly, etc) and you're asking for disaster.

Hope this helps.

11B3XCIB said:
For the Geissele trigger ($170+)? Or the ALG ($65)? The ALG is a solid affordable upgrade. The Geissele, however expensive, is worth the cost.
 
There are without doubt great aftermarket trigger groups out there but I agree with Tigerstripe-let the gunsmith look at it. I had a new M&P where the trigger wouldn't 'reset' consistently. Gunsmith took out the assembly and the sear had an almost imperceptible ridge in it. He replaced it with a new one and that was one of the best "nearly" free fixes I could've done. Don't risk a malfunction by doing something you're not equipped for. If it's not repairable for little to no cost, then go buy a nice aftermarket trigger group.
 
I hate to be a smart ass. But it's much much cheaper to learn to shoot a heavy trigger. Any time you lighten the trigger pull you sacrifice reliability I don't care who worked on the trigger for you there's allways the chance of a light primer strike.
 
I hate to be a smart ass. But it's much much cheaper to learn to shoot a heavy trigger. Any time you lighten the trigger pull you sacrifice reliability I don't care who worked on the trigger for you there's allways the chance of a light primer strike.
 
The heavy pull wasn't a problem - we have a Sig P6 for goodness' sake and can shoot it just fine. It was the gritty feel over the travel.

Problem resolved itself - sold my extra lower and this lower parts set as a bundle.
 
HOLY DIVER said:
I hate to be a smart ass. But it's much much cheaper to learn to shoot a heavy trigger. Any time you lighten the trigger pull you sacrifice reliability I don't care who worked on the trigger for you there's allways the chance of a light primer strike.

Yeah, I guess that's why SOCOM uses a Geisselle with a stock spec weight of 5.5+ lb lbs -- oh, hang on... the $400 Geisselle Super SCAR hs a 4 lb pull? Oh, really?

I agree that cheap trigger "jobs" and modified springs that lighten weight can cause problems. But I've not heard of significant reliability problems with the high end modular drop ins that are available these days. Which makes sense given that they cost almost ten times as much as the OEM assembly.
 
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