What do I need to spend to get a decent pair of calipers?

[Horty]

I have a set of digital calipers that came with my Hornady LnL kit. I have since replaced several of the other "accessories" that came with that kit but still have the same calipers that came with it. They seem to work alright but I can tell that they are not of the highest quality. They do not have a label on them and the storage box that they are kept in indicates that they were made in China. Do you all think that these are "good enough"? I would guess that these are the standard $20-$30 ones that you can buy on any outdoors website. Who makes a good set of calipers and how much am I going to have to pay for them?

 

[drmitchgibson]

If you can compare them to a set that is known to be accurate, and they measure equivalently, then you don't need to buy another set. I could help you with that, if you like. Otherwise, you need to spend $90-$140 on a brand like Brown and Sharpe, Starrett, Mitutoyo, or Etalon (same as Brown and Sharpe, also Tesa). It's possible to get a very good rebranded caliper from Fowler, but it's also just as likely that you'll get rebranded garbage: in any case, you're risking $60-120 when you can buy a great caliper for $95.

 

[technetium-99m]

You're likely fine.

 

[Wildcat]

If you have some headspace gauges or can get your hands on some see how close the measurement is. Most digital calipers are only calibrated to +/- .002 as it is.

 

[Wall]

Great calipers like starrett, mitutoyo, etc. aren't required for reloading. You're not going to be consistent from round to round within .001 anyway. The charge weight is way more critical to get right than getting the OAL within .002. Spend you're money on a good quality scale.

 

[Chambers]

I use $20 frankford arsenal calipers and they are fine for reloading purposes.

 

[Scott Hearn]

I use $20 frankford arsenal calipers and they are fine for reloading purposes.

This is very true. Just because a digital readout will go down to .0001" does not mean the tool is that accurate. Calipers digital and dial aren't really good for anything better than +/- .0010" (that's a .002" range) except for the Starret verniers and they are uber money and require a lot of practice for feel. Reloading just doesn't require this kind of precision and bullet ogives will vary more than .002" from bullet to bullet even in the same box. If you can tell that your round's OAL is within a .005" range you are doing good and most any Chinese knockoff will do this.

 

[drmitchgibson]

I use Frankford Arsenal calipers for reloading, also. The OD jaws are GTG, but the depth stem surfaces are all jacked up. Of course, that has nothing to do with reloading.

 

[dennishoddy]

I have more expensive calipers, but everybody has made a true statement when it comes to reloading equipment.
Save some money for other things, and enjoy your new hobby.

 

[dennishoddy]

This is very true. Just because a digital readout will go down to .0001" does not mean the tool is that accurate. Calipers digital and dial aren't really good for anything better than +/- .0010" (that's a .002" range) except for the Starret verniers and they are uber money and require a lot of practice for feel. Reloading just doesn't require this kind of precision and bullet ogives will vary more than .002" from bullet to bullet even in the same box. If you can tell that your round's OAL is within a .005" range you are doing good and most any Chinese knockoff will do this.

Shadowrider makes a very important point here.

It doesn't matter if its high dollar calipers or micrometers, its the operators "feel", "touch" that will determine the final measurement.

Be consistant on rolling the caliper, or Mike on the part, and maintain that consistancy. Accept what the instrument tells you and work up your load from that data.

A person may come behind you and get a different reading, but don't let it question your readings. If it shoots good in your gun, its a good load.