switchback
Well-Known Fanatic
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2020
- Messages
- 663
ok, like a lot of you I suspect, I've used challis grip screws here and there, I've used challis grip screw bushings on occasion and also used their grip O ring bushings. Thats quite a hodgepodge I will admit. I finally commited to changing my 1911s to the complete challis system. All of them, now I haven't got near as many 1911s as some of you, and may have more than a few of you. Its not the quantity that this post is about, its the complete challis "system". I realize some of you likely made this move years ago. I'm in the don't fix what isn't broken camp. And all my bushings remain in fine condition.
So today my Brownells order arrived. a small order at that, these challis parts don't take up much room in Brownells standard shipping box. I received bushing O-rings - they install on frame side of bushing and tighten down in a small V-groove, these keep the bushing tight and don't allow the frame scratching movement or the grips to work loose.
Hex- head bushings , these are the cadillac part of the system, in my opinion. Using the Challis complete system, one only tightens the bushing to a specific torque value, different for carbon and stainless , as well as aluminum frames.
And finally the Challis grip O-rings to complete the system (unless you needed grip screws as well). I've bought O-rings at our local Tractor Supply and Napa but were never quite the right size. Challis has these manufactured specifically for the 1911 and it uses a long lasting material.
On to the install. If you've ever collapsed a bushing you know the oh **** feeling. I've changed a lot of bushings for shooters and friends in my area, I do a bit of 1911 work. I'm NOT a gunsmith and do not proclaim to be but I can fix a few issues and usually can make a 1911 run. The Colt staked bushing is the one that makes me cringe, absolutely hate it. I use a ball head on a rotary tool to make removal easier. I know some say, just unthread it, another oh **** moment is when threads pull out with the bushing. Then you get to drill and tap for an over-sized bushing. One time and one time only, so I relieve with the ball head cutter. Fortunately, I no longer have 1911s with staked bushings, so I got a pass on this.
Another pet peeve is lock-tited bushings. Bushings are manufactured soft so as to not destroy the frame but rather the bushing. A little lock-tite goes a long way. Lord help you if someone used red!! I use a soldering iron a heat up the bushing to melt the glue, most standard bushings easily remove after the heat, slim bushings? Not so much. Patience and heat. I will admit to needing the help of left hand drill bits, easy outs and the like. Terrifying.
Once the old bushings are removed and threads cleaned the work is done. ( not a bad idea to chase threads here) Slip proper O-ring on bushing and install. I use my fingers because no cross threading allowed. Once all 4 bushings and their O-rings are installed and properly torqued. You're nearly home. Set grip in place and after placing proper screw O-ring on grip screw, I again start screw with my fingers, no need to botch a nice job. Challis recommends torquing the grip screw a little at a time and evenly bring grip to frame.
Once both O-rings are compressed, easy does it here, your grip will not work loose, grips won't chaffe at frame and cause damage there (we've all seen that) and the job is finished. I didn't intend for this to be so much a tutorial as a "this is a great set-up when used as a complete system". Easy to do , a nice upgrade and as Ron White might say " its a kit"!! Sorry for the lack of pics, none came out worth posting and most of the parts are not seen upon install.
I'm very satified, happy I made the switch. Now everything matches, or it will soon. I have no affiliation with the folks at Challis. Just passing on a great and simple upgrade
edit: be sure to read post #7 as I posted incorrectly, post #7 is the correct way to install the bushing O-ring
So today my Brownells order arrived. a small order at that, these challis parts don't take up much room in Brownells standard shipping box. I received bushing O-rings - they install on frame side of bushing and tighten down in a small V-groove, these keep the bushing tight and don't allow the frame scratching movement or the grips to work loose.
Hex- head bushings , these are the cadillac part of the system, in my opinion. Using the Challis complete system, one only tightens the bushing to a specific torque value, different for carbon and stainless , as well as aluminum frames.
And finally the Challis grip O-rings to complete the system (unless you needed grip screws as well). I've bought O-rings at our local Tractor Supply and Napa but were never quite the right size. Challis has these manufactured specifically for the 1911 and it uses a long lasting material.
On to the install. If you've ever collapsed a bushing you know the oh **** feeling. I've changed a lot of bushings for shooters and friends in my area, I do a bit of 1911 work. I'm NOT a gunsmith and do not proclaim to be but I can fix a few issues and usually can make a 1911 run. The Colt staked bushing is the one that makes me cringe, absolutely hate it. I use a ball head on a rotary tool to make removal easier. I know some say, just unthread it, another oh **** moment is when threads pull out with the bushing. Then you get to drill and tap for an over-sized bushing. One time and one time only, so I relieve with the ball head cutter. Fortunately, I no longer have 1911s with staked bushings, so I got a pass on this.
Another pet peeve is lock-tited bushings. Bushings are manufactured soft so as to not destroy the frame but rather the bushing. A little lock-tite goes a long way. Lord help you if someone used red!! I use a soldering iron a heat up the bushing to melt the glue, most standard bushings easily remove after the heat, slim bushings? Not so much. Patience and heat. I will admit to needing the help of left hand drill bits, easy outs and the like. Terrifying.
Once the old bushings are removed and threads cleaned the work is done. ( not a bad idea to chase threads here) Slip proper O-ring on bushing and install. I use my fingers because no cross threading allowed. Once all 4 bushings and their O-rings are installed and properly torqued. You're nearly home. Set grip in place and after placing proper screw O-ring on grip screw, I again start screw with my fingers, no need to botch a nice job. Challis recommends torquing the grip screw a little at a time and evenly bring grip to frame.
Once both O-rings are compressed, easy does it here, your grip will not work loose, grips won't chaffe at frame and cause damage there (we've all seen that) and the job is finished. I didn't intend for this to be so much a tutorial as a "this is a great set-up when used as a complete system". Easy to do , a nice upgrade and as Ron White might say " its a kit"!! Sorry for the lack of pics, none came out worth posting and most of the parts are not seen upon install.
I'm very satified, happy I made the switch. Now everything matches, or it will soon. I have no affiliation with the folks at Challis. Just passing on a great and simple upgrade
edit: be sure to read post #7 as I posted incorrectly, post #7 is the correct way to install the bushing O-ring
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