Sticky Long Pull

Bare45

Fanatic
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Newberry Springs, CA
I've become pretty comfortable smithing my Rock Island GI 1911. So I replaced a few things. New skeletonized hammer, new beavertail. Nice upgrade! Going into this with eyes wide open, I figured there'd be some tuning to follow. Sure enough the gun runs fine but for an annoying sticky (gritty) pull on the first round. Followup resets are crisp and clean. Looking closely at the trigger bow, it is not rubbing on the grip safety. Could it have something to do with the thumb safety or disconnector? Wish I has a better understanding of the difference between the long first trigger pull and the followup resets.
 

taz4712

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Messages
258
Location
Philadelphia Suburbs
I've found that the mags themselves will cause the trigger to feel gritty. If you are using the mags that came with the pistol try a Wilson or one of the other quality mags and see if that doesn't clear it up. Also you should look at the trigger bow and make sure there are no rough surfaces on it .
 

azpoolguy

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Apr 3, 2018
Messages
625
I've found that the mags themselves will cause the trigger to feel gritty. If you are using the mags that came with the pistol try a Wilson or one of the other quality mags and see if that doesn't clear it up. Also you should look at the trigger bow and make sure there are no rough surfaces on it .
Yup. The inside of the trigger bow can rub on some mags causing drag.

It is really hard to diagnose trigger problems over the Internet. There are so many moving parts that all interact together. I have had success smoothing up trigger pulls without touching the hammer and sear engagement by polishing the sides of the trigger bow, front and rear of the disco paddle, trigger track in the frame and trigger shoe.
 
Last edited:

ZoidMeister

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Sep 15, 2018
Messages
378
Location
The Hamlet Squire of Tomfoolery . . .
Could be grit / rough surfaces in the trigger track. Get a trigger track stone from Brownell's. Fairly inexpensive way to smooth out your trigger pull.

Also check the trigger bow to see if it might be too tall in the rear. I have had a couple trigger bows drag along the tops of the track.

Is it the same trigger you started with, or a replacement as well?

Z
 

Bare45

Fanatic
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Newberry Springs, CA
The gun is an RIA GI double stack 45. I have replaced the trigger and buffed the bow. This is probably not a mag problem as the symptom occurs even without a mag (dry). I have carefully honed the contact points on the grip safety and can see that it is missing the bow. Thinking it might be the thumb safety or the disconnector. Afraid this is out of my wheelhouse. Hard to picture what's going on in there and wish I could see it. I've looked at a few 3d animations, but have yet to see one that helps.
 
Last edited:

Fred_G

Well-Known Fanatic
Fanatic Family
Joined
Jun 8, 2018
Messages
728
I would strip it down, and just put the trigger back in. See if you can duplicate the drag. As stated, could be something in the trigger track. Guessing your issue is somewhere in there. If I am not too far off, (not a gunsmith) the main interaction of the trigger and other parts happens after the initial take up of the trigger. Just thinking out loud.
 

ZoidMeister

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Sep 15, 2018
Messages
378
Location
The Hamlet Squire of Tomfoolery . . .
BTW, I have a Ruger SR1911-10mm that is doing the exact same thing. I haven't been motivated enough or had the time yet to investigate it. I am hoping to get to it next week. I will report back my findings.

I swapped out the original trigger on this one with a flat K hole from Fusion.
Made a few "mistakes" along the way, but where I learned that the back of the trigger bow could be an issue when fitting.


4757
 

seagiant

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Feb 7, 2019
Messages
103
Hi,
Take the slide off and remove the thumb safety and remove the grip safety.

Replace the thumb safety and then look from the back where the lug on the TS comes close to the body of the hammer at the bottom of the hammer.

Sometime there is a little contact there and the round part of the TS lug needs a few swipes with a needle file for clearance.

Just something I have seen before???
 

seagiant

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Feb 7, 2019
Messages
103
Hi,
The 1911 is a single action pistol, meaning the hammer has to be cocked manually fr the first shot and then is cocked by the slide when fired.

Should be no difference in first shot or others.

You have replaced parts, but did you fit the parts???

The 1911 is not a Glock and is not a plug and play pistol.

I would strip the pistol completely down and start over checking each item as it goes in for interference.
 

Trump.45

Fanatic
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
20
Hi,
The 1911 is a single action pistol, meaning the hammer has to be cocked manually fr the first shot and then is cocked by the slide when fired.

Should be no difference in first shot or others.

You have replaced parts, but did you fit the parts???

The 1911 is not a Glock and is not a plug and play pistol.

I would strip the pistol completely down and start over checking each item as it goes in for interference.
I like the way you put that, and its so true! Not a plug and play pistol. I was really surprised when i purchased my Springfield RO Champion. No barrel bushing. I did a double take look.
 

Latest posts

Top