sooo I want an AR type rifle

Iggie

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Feb 7, 2012
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blanchard, ok
But I don't have much monies to spend I was told to build one. So here's my questions. Is it only the lower that is considered a firearm? What all do I need? How can I break it down to be more affordable? Where should I start? What can I do at home and what requires a smith? And can someone give me a price breakdown?
 
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The lower receiver is considered the firearm. Cold Hand Arms on Broadway Extension in OKC had complete kits for $600 before Christmas,these were pretty basic kits i included a link for an example. Im not sure of someplace closer than that for parts and components. Someone else may be able to chime in for someone closer to you. There is a pretty good thread on AR15.com on how to build the lower receiver. The ar15 thread covers the basic tools needed for the lower. If you have all of the tools everything can be done at home I just built a 6.8 SPC rifle from a stripped receiver set that i got through one of the Loki group buys on here. Hope this helps.

http://coldhandarms....products_id=242

http://www.ar15.com/...tructions_.html
 
The barrel and the bolt carrier group are the most important parts so don't skimp on qualuty there. A great barrel Will cosy $200 plus so that would be the most expensive part of the rifle. Other than that go for a quality manufacturer on your parts like loki, spikes, bravo company.

When I get home on the computer ill yet to put a few links up for good parts that won't kill the wallet.
 
heres a complete kit minus the lower, Which Sooner State Pawn has some right now for 69.99

http://akpartskits.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_16&products_id=285
 
excellent questions and i'm extremely interested. i've always wanted to build an AR but i'm a bit intimidated by it.

i dont know about iggie but i've never attempted anything like this. on a scale of 1-10 how hard would you say this build is? and what tools are necessary?
 
If this is going to be your first AR, buy a fully built rifle. Get to know the rifle and how it works. Play with it.

Then build one. Its really not hard but its a lot better if you have a working knowledge of the rifle.
 
not trying to hijack iggies thread here, not sure if i should start another one?

if you are refering to the AR platform i'm plenty familiar with it from my time in the service. however, anyone thats been in the service will tell you that beyond very basic breakdown and cleaning, any type of "gunsmithing" is absolutly frowned upon so i've never had it broken down past the threee major groups, bolt carrier, upper, lower.

Jackary's post is quite helpful except that the cold hand arms website is completly sold out of complete AR kits, well, sold out of pretty much everything in terms of complete upper or lower kits.
 
If this is going to be your first AR, buy a fully built rifle. Get to know the rifle and how it works. Play with it.

Then build one. Its really not hard but its a lot better if you have a working knowledge of the rifle.

I would have to agree with this mostly. 90% of building an AR from parts is nothing but having a few tools, and putting the parts together. Kind of like a puzzle. The Link supplied earlier in the thread is a great source. I printed off the whole thread on a color printer, and made a folder. Put my first one together using it.
The other 10% is if you want to install a custom trigger. There are drop in assemblies, but its much more fun to assemble one from parts. All of mine have the JP triggers that I get from Tony Wall. Its truly interesting to see how all the parts work to make the disconnect, sear, safety, and reset all come together. Tune it the way you want, and your ready to go.
If you want to go that route, don't hesitate to ask. Somebody will help you along.
JP has an outstanding CD that takes one step by step in installing the trigger assembly's.
 
Olslyguy your fine.

Airic the reason I want to build one is I can't buy a pre made one. But more likely could afford bits at a time. As far as building it I don't have problems figuring most mechanical things out or following instructions. If I could just out right buy one I would. I appriciate the suggestion though.

I just need a new or second job :)

Maybe I just need to shoot one first... I have handeled and looked them over they seem simple enough. But haven't had an opertunity to shoot them.

Dennis thank you for the sugestions. I really like to tune and customize things to me.

Was also considering doing it in 9mm upper. Just a passing thought.

Next question is this: can any lower be class three for SBR and/or full auto and if the lower is class 3 does it matter the upper that's put on it. Mainly interested in the SBR, I'm to poor to shoot more then one bullet a pull lol
 
OP:
You should build an AR. It's very easy, especially from a kit, there are great instructions available online, and you'll end up with a very accurate and reliable gun that you know the build and function of. You'd likely get a better gun by piecing one together as you can afford the parts, but that really totally depends on whether you're going to run around outdoors shooting things or just plink.
The only thing you'd need special tools for would be installing a barrel and stock, and you may not end up installing a barrel. Some of our members generously offer the use of these tools.
 
Next question is this: can any lower be class three for SBR and/or full auto and if the lower is class 3 does it matter the upper that's put on it. Mainly interested in the SBR, I'm to poor to shoot more then one bullet a pull lol

Okay I'll try to make this simple.
If you're approved for and pay for the transfer of a receiver that was registered as a machine gun or a short barreled rifle, you can put any upper on it whether its in a different caliber or different dimension than your paperwork specifies as long as you have the ability to return it to the caliber and dimension's that your paperwork specifies.
 
There are separate stamps required for SBR, automatic and suppressor. The lower must be stamped and engraved for each. Automatic requires the sear kit to be built/engraved prior to the auto weapons ban in 1985. I may be off slightly on the year of the auto ban. Select/burst/full auto weapons have to be licensed prior to 1985. Matt is correct. They are a limited commodity and extremely expensive since there will be no more produced that are not law enforcement/dealer only. There are plenty of them available, but civilians can not own any of the ones produced after the law was passed.

Any lower can be engraved for SBR. The paperwork must be filled out and submitted. Once the lower is engraved, any SBR upper can be installed. If you install a SBR upper on a standard lower, the ATF will send you to the federal pen for 5-10 years.

Lowers do not have to be engraved for suppressors. The serial number is engraved on the suppressor. Once you go through the class 3 process for a suppressor, it can be installed on any gun as long as the suppressor is properly licensed.
 
If you call Steve at Cold Hand Arms he may have some kits in stock. I was up there today to pick up a pistol I transferred through him, and another guy was buying a kit. He may have stuff in stock that just isn't on the website yet.

If you are not wanting just a basic rifle I suggest buy it piece by piece and spread the build out. That is what i did with my 6.8. It took a lot longer but i was able to build it exactly the way i wanted it. I built one off a basic kit the first time around and ended up upgrading almost everything a year later. I was wishing i had just built it the way i wanted the first time. What you want to do with it will also affect the cost.

If you just want a fun range toy you don't need a competition bolt carrier group a standard bcg will work fine. I havent had any problems with the top rifle and it was pretty much a kit. It was built on a delton lower receiver and has a delton complete upper with standard bcg.

I definitely recommend building one it is not that hard and it is a good way to familiarize yourself with the gun. There is plenty of information online to assemble an AR, and im sure there are more than a few here that could help you out as well.

thumb_pre_1333170535__imag0547.jpg

my first build

thumb_pre_1333170666__68.png

6.8 SPC: spread out over about 6 months
 
I know not to build Class 3 items with out the stamps. So my next question is say I want a lower stamped SBR its the $200 tax stamp plus the lower price right? Do the lowers tend to cost more as well? I've seen standard lowers run from $70-$200.

For the sake of price ill probally end up with a standard. I always liked the idea of having an SBR though.
 
You can turn any standard lower into an SBR.
You just have to engrave your name and city and state on it. Or if going through a trust engrave the trust name on it.

You can get a lower for $75+ depending on the one you pick out then the $200 tax stamp is seperate.
 
You can turn any standard lower into an SBR.
You just have to engrave your name and city and state on it. Or if going through a trust engrave the trust name on it.

You can get a lower for $75+ depending on the one you pick out then the $200 tax stamp is seperate.

Cool So I can purchase a Stripped Lower now and later once I have the money get the lower engraved and pay the tax stamp to be SBR.

You have to engrave the city and state??? isnt it just better to go the way of a trust for Class 3.

I will have to look at Sooner state pawn been meaning to go up there anyway.

Thanks for the Info Guys.
 
I don't know the pros and Cons of trust vs. Personal. The only thing I know about the trust is you don't have to do fingerprints or get a sherriffs signature. I've only done personal on the two I have and they were both very easy processes.
 
Most people feel the trust is better because it saves you a small task of running down to the county jail to get your form 1's signed by John Whetsel. It doesn't take but a few days. You do have to pay for a background check and fingerprints before he'll sign them as well.
 
I don't know the pros and Cons of trust vs. Personal. The only thing I know about the trust is you don't have to do fingerprints or get a sherriffs signature. I've only done personal on the two I have and they were both very easy processes.

What if you move? Does the engraving have to change?
 
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