Some gun porn for y'all

Trevor300wsm

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
Messages
47
Location
In the sticks outside Ardmore
Hey all,

Y'all seem to like pics around here, who doesn't so I thought I'd post up some pics of some of my shootin sticks. I'm mainly a bolt gun guy, but I have a few of everything. Anyway, here are the pics.

This is a GAP built .308 Hospitaller on a Surgeon 591 action in a KMW Sentinel stock
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This is a 6.5x47 Lapua on a Stiller action with Saturn ABS barrel in AICS chassis
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Another 6.5x47 Lapua (I'm a fan of this caliber) on a Defiance action with a Saturn ABS barrel and a Mcm HTG stock
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Clay Spencer built 6x47 Lapua on a Rem 700 action and a McM HTG stock.
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Rem 700 5R .308 in a McM A5 stock
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Savage 10PC in .223 (this rifle is bad mojo for coyotes)
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Rem 700 in .300WSM in a HS Precision stock (my first long range rifle I built)
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One of the Zombie Killers/Apocolypse/all purpose SHTF
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Kimber .45 for truck/carry
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I'm pretty sure they make them for all guns. I've had very good luck with them, however like anything you will get mixed reviews. One thing to keep in mind though, if your AR is for long range. The ABS barrels dissipate heat very rapidly and this can cause added mirage issues in your optic at long range.
 
Welcome to B S.
I have a REM 7mm WSM. I 'm looking at overhaul much like your REM 300 WSM can you give me some guidance on this.
 
Welcome to B S.
I have a REM 7mm WSM. I 'm looking at overhaul much like your REM 300 WSM can you give me some guidance on this.


Toolbox....all I can tell you are my opinions and personal experiences. You'll have to determine what's best for you. The 7WSM is a excellent long range caliber and is effective to 1000yds and beyond with the right shooter behind the trigger. What is your budget for this over-haul? What will this gun be used for primarily? There are lots of variables to think about here that will play a role in determining your stock and optic selection. However, for shits ang giggles let's just say that it's going to be a dedicated long range rifle for punching steel at the range and maybe some long range hunting situations, maybe some competition.

First let me say, the rifle will probably shoot just fine as it it. Any modifications to the stock, optic, or cosmetics is obviously not going to increase the accuracy, or lack of that the rifle already possesses. These modifications are really more for shooter comfort.

Stock: Either buy after-market or keep what you have. I'm a fan of McMillian stocks, but they can be considered pricey to some. I've learned from experience in the shooting game that as with most things, you get what you pay for. The McM A5 is a great stock, or any of their variations. I also like the McM HTG for a all-purpose hunting/LR rifle. You can also look at the HS Precision and Bell & Carlson lines of stock. They both have lots of good reviews. They both offer full length aluminum bedding blocks in their stocks. They are all durable, for most purposes for the average shooter. You aren't going to be beating them through the rocks or running over them with vehicles. The McM is a proven battlefield/duty/service stock. People trust their lives on it so naturally your gonna pay more for the name and quality. If you have the chance get behind some different stocks and see what you like. ****Most importantly-buy used!!!! Get on SnipersHide or any of the forums and buy a good used stock and save hundreds as well as no wait time for a McM. There are tons of stocks for sale right now used on the hide. Most are lightly if at all used. If you must buy new, check Stocky's Stocks for the best deals. Also, any stock you get, it's a good idea to have it atleast skim bedded. You can do this yourself if your confident in your abilitys, or take it to a smith. Having it bedded is one thing that (can) aid in accuracy.

Optic.....Nothing I hate more than seeing someone spend $1000-$2000 on their rifle and then they stick a $150 scope on top of it with shitty rings and bases. Your automatically handicapping your rifle and making the weak link your optic. Buy once, cry once. Most people will tell you to budget as much for glass as you did for the rifle. For someone just starting out, I dont feel this is a must. I'm a NightForce fan, but they aren't cheap. They are rock solid reliable, built like a tank, able to take abuse, and have a good warranty where an English speaking person will answer the phone when you call the 1-800 number. I also really like the Vortex Viper line of optics, NOT the PST. I have a 2 vipers and both have performed well wiu no issues and both habe great glass. The Vortex warranty is also very reputable. There are really so many options to choose from for optics. Some advice though-buy an optic with matching turrets and recticle. Dont buy with MOA turret adjustments and a Mil based recticle. Get them matching, either MOA/MOA or Mil/Mil, whatever you prefer. This will help you down the road with ranging your targets with only your optic and also with making adjustments on follow up shots after a miss. Get plenty of magnification....the more the better out at 800-1000yds. 20x-25x on the top end is good. ***AGAIN BUY USED!!!*** SAVE $$$$

Rings/bases: NightForce, Badger Ord, Seekins, are all quality rings/bases. The EGW line is ok as well, but again you get what you pay for. With your base, make sure you get a 20MOA cant built in the base is this is gonna be a dedicated long range rifle. With a good optic, you'll still be able to get a 100yd zero and dial out to 1000yds with the 20MOA base. Don't go cheap here! This is an important piece of your equipment here. It's like having a 1000 horsepower race car and putting plastic lug nuts and cheap tires on it.

Trigger: your trigger may be just fine as it is. Typically a good 2lb-2.5lb pull is plenty.....most prefer less. Depending on what rifle you have, you may be able to adjust your trigger externally (40x trigger) or you may have to remove it from the stock. If you choose to replace it, the Jewel triggers are great. Rifle Basix and Timmney triggers are good. Most decent smiths can make a factory trigger just as good as any.

I think I've covered the basics for you, enough to get you looking and get your wallet puckered up. I can't stress enough though to buy used!! I don't buy any equipment new unless I just can't find it used on the Hide or other forums. Save money and use it for more ammo and gas!! If you have more questions just let me know.
 
Thank's trevor,
My first thoughts were to line up a heavy barrel, ( barrel whip ) and then to float it. My first question is can i float with my factory stock? Once i got this done i was going to look into glass.
Also noticed many differant barrel's how lomg do you want it? and what twist do you want?
I want to shoot from 100 to 600 yrd's, maybe in the futrue out to 800 to 1000 yrds. I;m looking at long range target and hunting. I have enjoyed hunting with my good ole 30-30 here when in the tree's, but am tired of watching game walk thru the field an know all i can do is watch! I have my 7 zero'd at 200 yrds. This allows my to be in the zone from 100 to 300 give or take with a little adjustment ( aim up or down ) on my part. I have had a lot of fun with this shooter. I just want to make it a little better with what i want to do in yrd's.
 
If your shooting off a bipod and using the plastic factory stock then there will be different stress and flex in the stock that may be free floated on a cold bore shot but may be touching after the bbl warms up. The 7mmRM I'm building now is a 26" 1/9 twist bbl. It's going to be a long rang target rifle with maybe a hunt or 2 thrown in the mix. I totally agree with Trevor on the glass. If you can't see it, you cant shoot it. I was out yesterday around 2pm, shooting at 1000 yards and the mirage was almost horrible. The difference in my $400 Vortex scope and my Nightforce was that in the Nightforce, I only had to dial the power ring down to around 17 and the vortex to 11 to clearly see my target.
 
Toolbox....let me get some clarification here.

Are you talking about building a rifle, or just modifying the one you have? You said you wanted to get a heavy barrel? So your wanting to rebarrel your current rifle? I need to know what we are working with here.
 
If your shooting off a bipod and using the plastic factory stock then there will be different stress and flex in the stock that may be free floated on a cold bore shot but may be touching after the bbl warms up. The 7mmRM I'm building now is a 26" 1/9 twist bbl. It's going to be a long rang target rifle with maybe a hunt or 2 thrown in the mix. I totally agree with Trevor on the glass. If you can't see it, you cant shoot it. I was out yesterday around 2pm, shooting at 1000 yards and the mirage was almost horrible. The difference in my $400 Vortex scope and my Nightforce was that in the Nightforce, I only had to dial the power ring down to around 17 and the vortex to 11 to clearly see my target.

Cool, I'll start looking into a stock. It was said" Buy once cry once." I see it this way - Buy once and laugh real hard every time the rounds hit where i want them. The real party starts when i shoot twice and only one hole is in the target. I just love it when that happens.
 
Toolbox....let me get some clarification here.

Are you talking about building a rifle, or just modifying the one you have? You said you wanted to get a heavy barrel? So your wanting to rebarrel your current rifle? I need to know what we are working with here.

I want to rebarrel, float and glass the rifle i have. I love shooting it the way it is at 150 to 250. It's a blast. I would like to make it a little better.
 
Ok sir,

Well do you have a Smith in mind to do the work for you?

As far as barrels go, they are all pretty good these days if you stick with a good name brand. If you haven't already decided on one, give the folks at Benchmark Barrels a call. It's a good operation they have going and they will go out of their way to help you. They keep a large selection in stock on the shelf. They are really a couple of good guys to deal with. Also, Bartlein, Kreiger, and Rock are all good. Don't overlook Lilja Barrels either.

On length I'd go with atleast 24"-26" for a range gun. 24" is good, plus your going to want to add a muzzle break on that beast so it's gonna be another 1.5"-2" long. You'll have to decide on what barrel contour you want. A standard Varmint, light Palma, or Medium Palma are all good. Remember though, heavy barrels are NOT more accurate than a sporter barre shot for shot so you dont have to go overboard with a 1.25" straight no taper barrel. It's just too much weight.
 
I will need to go back and look at my list, but i have some names of smiths around the state.
I've heard 1/9 twist several times. How much twist is to much, because barrel makers offer a lot more twist than 1/9?
I was thinking 26". Again barrel makes offer to go much longer.
Yes i want it to be accurate but at what price ( weight )?
 
Ok sir,

Well do you have a Smith in mind to do the work for you?

As far as barrels go, they are all pretty good these days if you stick with a good name brand. If you haven't already decided on one, give the folks at Benchmark Barrels a call. It's a good operation they have going and they will go out of their way to help you. They keep a large selection in stock on the shelf. They are really a couple of good guys to deal with. Also, Bartlein, Kreiger, and Rock are all good. Don't overlook Lilja Barrels either.

On length I'd go with atleast 24"-26" for a range gun. 24" is good, plus your going to want to add a muzzle break on that beast so it's gonna be another 1.5"-2" long. You'll have to decide on what barrel contour you want. A standard Varmint, light Palma, or Medium Palma are all good. Remember though, heavy barrels are NOT more accurate than a sporter barre shot for shot so you dont have to go overboard with a 1.25" straight no taper barrel. It's just too much weight.


One smith that comes to mind is PERRY CUSTOM GUNS in Vici
 
I've seen some of Matt Parrys work. He builds and very nice rifle. I finally got to meet him at Rick Reeves match in April.
 
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