sighting in 1-4 scope

benjamin-benjamin

snickerpuss
Joined
Sep 16, 2010
Messages
2,907
Got my meopta ZD in today and even though it will be a while before i can shoot it, what is the best way to sight it in?? also does it "change" depending on the magnification you are using?? thanks
 
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Most reticle measurements are accurate at full magnification. Get a hasty zero at 25 then zero at 300 or get a hasty zero at 50 then zero at 200.
 
Put it on 4x and zero it at 200. It's easier to get a good zero at 200 than 50.

So my trajectory is approximately:

25 yards: -2"
50 yards: 0"
100 yards: +1.2"
200 yards: 0"
300 yds: -8"
400 yds: -25"
500 yds: -55"
 
Put it on 4x and zero it at 200. It's easier to get a good zero at 200 than 50.

So my trajectory is approximately:

25 yards: -2"
50 yards: 0"
100 yards: +1.2"
200 yards: 0"
300 yds: -8"
400 yds: -25"
500 yds: -55"

To elaborate...the problem with a 50 yd zero is that it might actually be a 44 yd zero. Probably not a problem inside of 300, but will cause you grief as you get out there. :banghead:
 
so does it change depending on the magnification.. this rectile also has a BDC that is based off of 100, should i still zero at 200, why not 100?? thanks for being patient...
 
To elaborate...the problem with a 50 yd zero is that it might actually be a 44 yd zero. Probably not a problem inside of 300, but will cause you grief as you get out there. :banghead:
that & just a little off left or right at 50 is a lot at 300.

so does it change depending on the magnification.. this rectile also has a BDC that is based off of 100, should i still zero at 200, why not 100?? thanks for being patient...
zero at 200 using the 200 mark in the reticle.
 
No, magnification doesn't affect zero.

Your BDC may or may not be accurate depending on velocity/ammo. They are never 100% correct.
 
I agree with chambers zero for 200 with main reticle then learn were 300 hits on your reticle

The below numbers are for 100 vs 200 yard zero 55gr .223 bullet going 3085 fps

100 vs 200 zero
40 .7 low zero
80 zero 1.4 high
100 zero 1.5 high
200 -3 in zero
300 -12.9 in -8.4

I always fire first shot at 25 yards to make sure i am in the ball park and I like a 200 yard zero. When using a low power scope I make a square with electical tape on the target and aim for the center of square. When using a 20 power scope i just put a plus because i can see the bullet holes. If it is windy there might be wind drift to the left or right but your vertical will not be affected if you do your part. In 3 gun targets are big 1.5 inches high will not matter but the BDC reticle is based on averages and may not fit your exact set up

Make sure you are looking clearly through the scope no black spots and if you have a heavy trigger pull you might find a friend who has a light trigger pull and borrow his lower good trigger helps for good patterns.

I have a Droid phone download Strelok (Russian for shooter per Russian friend) it shows lots of BDC reticles and how if you change your zero or velocity where the bullet will hit in relation to the bdc reticle you can also account for wind and wind angle. it does not ask for caliber only b.c. and velocity this is OK. Just google the round to get the velocity and b.c. (ballistic coefficient) if #'s are for 24 in barrel i would subtract 25 fps for every inch example bullet from 24 inch barrel is 3000 fps it would be ca. 2900 from 20 inch and 2800 from 16 inch. This is not an exact science but a good way to estimate.

I had to have a BDC reticle in a Leupold 6.5-20 X 50mm but when i shoot long range i always dial it in.

Good Luck
 
The below numbers are for 100 vs 200 yard zero 55gr .223 bullet going 3085 fps

100 yd zero
40yds .7in low
80yds - zero
100yds - zero
200yds -3 in
300yds -12.9

200 yd zero
40yds zero
80yds 1.4 high
100yds 1.5 high
200yds zero
300 -8.4
 
To elaborate...the problem with a 50 yd zero is that it might actually be a 44 yd zero. Probably not a problem inside of 300, but will cause you grief as you get out there. :banghead:

This IS true. 50 will get you close enough to confirm at 200. AND is a lot easier than starting at 200.

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This IS true. 50 will get you close enough to confirm at 200. AND is a lot easier than starting at 200.

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I do agree with wormy dog just confirm your 200

Wormydog unknowingly is causing enough stress in my life. I looked at Chambers 1-4 vortex and thought yeah thats what I want. Then I looked through wormydogs TR24 and thought man this is the scope I really want. I really like the German 4 Crosshair with Green Dot easy to focus on dot without clutter in the scope. Thanks guys for letting me look through scopes.
 
I do agree with wormy dog just confirm your 200

Wormydog unknowingly is causing enough stress in my life. I looked at Chambers 1-4 vortex and thought yeah thats what I want. Then I looked through wormydogs TR24 and thought man this is the scope I really want. I really like the German 4 Crosshair with Green Dot easy to focus on dot without clutter in the scope. Thanks guys for letting me look through scopes.

Did you shoot mine? Sorry I'm not good with names but I'm sure I would recognize your face. There were about 6 people finger banging my AR after I left it in the rack on a stage a couple weeks ago in Ft Smith.
 
My Swaro has a reticle that recommends a primary 100 yard zero which is appeoximately what I run. I actually zero the first hash at 300 then I shoot the primary cross hair at 100 & 200 and know that I am 1.5" high at 100 and 2" low at 200. Then cones the fun and hard part. You gotta shoot your ammo out to 600 or so and figure out what the other arms do with your barrel/ammo combination.

The zero you choose depends on the distances and target sizes you plan to encounter. There is no right answer.
 
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