Safe to shoot?

TheSwampFox · Nov 18, 2013

I recently bought a large can of old milsurp 7.62x51 ammo. Most of it looks pretty good but some it looks like this

Is it okay to shoot it looking like that or is going to blow my gun to pieces? Those are the worst ones in there and its only about 40 rounds out of 500 that look like that.

Tigerstripe · Nov 18, 2013

i would sand it off and shoot it. i have before.

dont sand a hole in the side you know, just clean it.

i have a few old mil 30-06 with less than that im going to tumble a little while. i have a batch of media mixed with sand to clean really dirty cases.

i aint skeered.

bigfutz · Nov 24, 2013

Are you tumbling loaded ammo, TS?

I would probably go with some baking soda and a toothbrush or a Scotchbrite. Or try a A&H Magic Eraser - those friggin' things are awesome!

Regardless, I would NOT put it in a gun looking like that. Best case you get the case stuck or introduce corrosion into your chamber.

WARNING: Listen to my advice at your own risk; I have no expertise in the area of old ammo.

TheSwampFox · Nov 24, 2013

I was planning on using an old brass bore brush and some good ol hoppes #9 to clean it up some. Those two are the worst of the bunch the rest are really small blemishes. I might chicken out and not shoot those two. I'll see how the others go first.

bigfutz · Nov 30, 2013

TheSwampFox said:
I was planning on using an old brass bore brush and some good ol hoppes #9 to clean it up some. Those two are the worst of the bunch the rest are really small blemishes. I might chicken out and not shoot those two. I'll see how the others go first.

I would try not to get it too wet.

TheSwampFox · Nov 30, 2013

I finally got some time to shoot my .308 yesterday. I passed on the ones that were really bad but the others fired without any problems. I checked the cases afterwards and I didn't see anything out the ordinary on the ones I cleaned up a bit.

Thanks for all the input.

rotarymike · Dec 1, 2013

For the cost of some time and a few primers you can have peace of mind - pull 'em down, tumble the brass and projectiles and then reload with new primers.

TheSwampFox · Dec 1, 2013

I considered doing that then I remembered I don't have any of the required equipment.

Reloading is something I really need to get into but time and money keep causing me to push it off. I know in the long run I would save tons on the cost of ammo but the upfront cost of buying good equipment is keeping from getting started. That I have no idea when I would have time to actually reload. :roll:

I know, I know. Excuses, excuses.

rotarymike · Dec 1, 2013

Basic Lee classic kit has everything but dies and is about $100. Dies are about $35 per caliber (Lee again). The Lee book is about $15 - all available from midway or graf's.

It *is* a steepish entry curve ($150 for equip, + $30 for 1lb powder, $5 per 100 primers (gets cheaper with qty) and ?? for brass and bullets) but then your only expenditures, until you decide to load another caliber, are the expendibles. I get primers by the 1000; I haven't bought powder in the 8-lb jugs yet but would if I could find any. Brass for me except for 8x57 and 6.8spc is basically free. Projectiles anywhere from $25/100 (that's for Hornady VMax in .277 at 110 grains) less or more depending on what you're loading. I think I figured that I was spending about $0.30 per round to reload 6.8, my most expensive loading, compared to $20-45 per box of 20.

Milsurp calibers like 5.56 and 7.62x51 are much cheaper - you can get pulled bullets and bulk brass and powder.

Conversely, you could have someone on the forum do it for you probably, and learn how to do it yourself in the process. Only $ would be to recompense for primers.

Shoot_FAST · Dec 1, 2013

Wipe clean as stated .

You can tumble in a VIBRATORY TUMBLER ONLY.

ROTARY TUMBLING IS A NO GO!

Tigerstripe · Dec 2, 2013

find an old heavy duty single stage press, dies, and a book and you will be hooked.

Chili · Dec 3, 2013

I have to agree....clean 'em and shoot 'em. And yeah, you need to let go of a few bucks and start reloading.

Johoevasmatrix · Dec 4, 2013

Am I the only one that was taught to buy nice once cry once? When I got into reloading I started out on a rcbs with a piggyback. I moved and my buddy wouldn't let me take his press and reloading gear with me. The nerve of some people. So I started shopping. From my searches I found lits if single stage press available that were used. I had to ask myself why do I see lots if these presses for sale and no many simi or fully progressive presses for sale. People graduate to progressive presses. I was then told my some that I highly trust in reloading some are my mentors that I only have two choices when picking a press. Rcbs and dillon. End if story. Well now I'm hearing a lot if people are quite happy with their lee and hornaday press. But I know one thing. If something ever breaks the part is free with a phone call and a two day wait.

rotarymike · Dec 4, 2013

Johoevasmatrix said:
Well now I'm hearing a lot if people are quite happy with their lee and hornaday press. But I know one thing. If something ever breaks the part is free with a phone call and a two day wait.

I've had the same experience with Lee. (well, shipping might take more than 2 days). But my Lee press is a single stage, and I will never sell it even if (when) I get a progressive press. The only thing that has broken on mine was the handle knob, and I'm pretty sure I broke that when we were moving.

I've used my classic cast press to reform primer pockets, which is much higher pressure than needed in the reloading process. No issues. Probably reformed over 1K rounds this way as for some reason the crimped primers in commercial 6.8SPC won't ream out, and I got tired of wasting primers that would only partly seat in otherwise good cases. Now I just do all 6.8 brass the first time I get it. Again, much more pressure than the regular resize and bullet seating.

I will say that I've heard mixed things about Lee's turret and progressive presses. RCBS too, to be honest. Only progressive I've consistently heard good stuff about is Dillon, but $$$. Well, $,$$$.

I would say reloading is for you IF:
1. You shoot lots of pistol ammo
2. You shoot lots of cheaper rifle ammo (5.56 for example)
3. You shoot oddball calibers that are hard to find/expensive.
4. You are reloading for precision not economy.
5. You can mentally handle the dichotomy of a zen-like practice with the destructive product of said practice. :lol:

Otherwise, I don't think you'll see much savings by rolling your own.

Warning: math ahead. I became a lawyer because I'm bad at math, so keep that in mind when reading.

I get surplus M2 Ball (.30-06) for about $0.50 each; if I include 1x fired brass, #34 mil primer, powder, and 150 grain FMJ or SMK bullet, I'm not saving more than a few cents until I get into numbers that I probably won't shoot in my lifetime.

BUT. Pistol ammo is much different - I can easily go through 500 rounds of 9x19 on range day, and at $0.28 or so each in bulk when I reload I'm spending about $0.14 each, including some sort of coated bullet (I like plated Ranier-style bullets for practice ammo, cheaper than true FMJ). That sort of savings adds up much quicker.

For the #3 reason above I reload 6.8. Brass is basically $1 per round used when/if you can find it. Cheaper IMHO to buy a Hornady 20-pack for $20 and get 1 loading free. $0.25 per bullet, about $0.20 in powder, $0.07 per primer. If you figure the brass is worth on average 10 reloads that is $0.62 per round, not awesome savings. But better to have only slightly cheaper ammo than no ammo at all.

Looking at those numbers, man I need to build a .22 or .223 plinker. Belt-fed slidefire .22LR monstrosity? Hmm.