Pinestraw Camo on my Marlin .22 bolt gun

11B3XCIB

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Lexington, SC
I read and (mainly) looked at all the pictures on this thread:
http://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=6&f=19&t=214547&page=1


And decided my plain black suppressor host needed some attention. I had taken the action out to reduce the trigger pull weight and decided to go ahead with it. I initially painted just the stock but I decided it was too much contrast and then I had a tropic thunder moment. I refuse to paint my suppressor, though. I may get it cerakoted in FDE to match my Sig 1911, but not right now. I took a QTip and lightly uncovered the serial number, because it was VERY shallow and was going to be coated with paint if it cured, so it's still visible. I also put painters tape around the red firing band on the bolt, and stuffed cotton balls around the action below the stock so no paint will seep down in where it will gum things up and have a QTip in the bore to keep paint out of the barrel and rifling. And of course, the scope lenses are covered but it's not a very expensive scope, so if there's some spray...I will wipe it off and not be mad.

I want it more khaki colored with some OD/Brown pine straw pattern (maybe a tiny bit of black...undecided right now) on top, but I don't want it too dark.

Before:
22Gun_zps2bf21f11.jpg


Basecoat
22gunPainted_zpsf3a242da.jpg


The base coat needs to cure, or at least dry for a few hours so that it won't come off if you lay it on one side.

I gathered up a grocery bag full of pinestraw, either off the tree itself or the ground (needles on the ground are a little broken and not quite as straight which will give a more natural appearance) you lay them all over the rifle. If you don't have pinestraw (we're in the south...you have it) you can get a cheap broom and cut the straw off the broom. In this picture, the pinestraw is kind of heavy because I wanted to work up to the level I wanted...starting light and getting darker. If the coat is too light once it's dry, just spread the straw back out, just thin it out and randomize the pattern again. Its easier that way than to go too dark first and have to respray the base coat (which after 3 coats the can was gone)

Pinestraw1_zps45349d41.jpg


I would let the paint dry for about 5 minutes or so before repositioning the needles. Once you've got the desired coverage, let it cure for the recommended time. I am going to add a clear coat to help protect it a little, but if it gets scratched up, it's easy to fix.

pinestraw2_zpse73f03a3.jpg


The photo is a little blurry around the scope...the camera couldn't decide where to focus. I guess that's a good thing! After this pic, I added a little more brown to the stock.

I only went with khaki and brown and didn't add any green (On pg 16 of the AR15com thread, a guy added green and it's too bright for my taste) but you can adjust your colors based on your environment. On page 17, there's a Winter Camo job on an AK that looks amazing.

Final Product:
Pinestraw3_zpsed07cccb.jpg
 
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It's really easy to do and with any foliage that matches your surroundings, like palm fronds in coastal areas, etc.

Make sure you wipe down ALL the surfaces with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits or something to remove finger oils and CLP, etc, or else your paint won't cure and it'll flake off easily. Forgot to mention that earlier.

Thanks for the compliments! I think I'm going to spray it with one more clear coat and it'll be "done". I shoot this rifle a lot so we'll see how long it lasts before it needs touching up. And I may spray it with some OD or lighter green...I cut a test rifle out of cardboard and practiced the pattern, so I'll do the green on that to see if I like the lighter green...or maybe black. I will add half to one side and half to the other
 
Looks great! I think I would pass on the clear as it will give it a shine, looks better flat and will add to the breakup of the pattern after a little wear.
 
Dayman said:
Looks great! I think I would pass on the clear as it will give it a shine, looks better flat and will add to the breakup of the pattern after a little wear.

The clear coat I got is specifically a matte finish to knock out any reflective surface. The paint itself was flat and no sheen as well. Other brands like Krylon Fusion needs the matte clear coat because they have a gloss to them but Krylon does bond well to metal and plastic also so its a good choice
 
I've used the flat and satin clears for other projects and they work very well. The polyurethane clears are very tough after curing with heat i.e. in the sun.
 
That's an excellent job. One of the best home done camo jobs I have seen. Thanks for sharing!
 
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