My new M&P look

McGuire

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
465
Location
OKC, OK
This has been my rough and tough carry for a while now and I decided it was time to dress her up. Shes going to see Mike over at Accurate Iron and I thought she deserved a makeover. So it starts.

IMG_0061.jpg


She decided to get naked for her date with mike...

IMG_0062.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
Trigger, sights and stipling, maybe a little later on Ill have the slide melted. I have a light/laser combo for this as well, When its all done Ill take a picture and put it up. I had a buddy do a glass bead media blast. It came out okay but since the guns going in I figured I let it be till I got it back. Or ask mike to clean it up a little. I also bought the Taylor Freelance .45 base plates for +3. So 13 rounds and they dont look completely retarded like the stock 14 rounders.
 
Educate us on why one would be different other than the other other than the coarseness of the media?
I'm racking my brain & googling but I can't remember the specifics, I just remember hearing that you should only use Aluminum Oxide.
I think the glass embeds in the steel & causes problems for refinishing, but I could be way off base.

Hopefully Mike or someone else will chime in & tell us what's up.
 
Well Im not planning on putting anything on it. I kinda like the look. It does however need some work from holster marking and such. But Its superficial so no biggie.
 
Holster wear just means she has been loved. Nothing sexier than a gun that's a little shiny around the edges.
 
I can tell you that the glass bead blasting won't provide enough bite for Cerakote to stick. Apart from that I got nothing.
This is probably it, but I can tell you not to use steel shot on a stainless slide. Reason being is it will imbed residual iron on the surface that can cause surface rusting. There is iron in the stainless steel and all steels are iron based but they passivate stainless. That's a bath in nitric acid that dissolves the iron on the surface and supposedly makes the chromium more "homogenous" on the surface. You don't want to use steel wool on stainless either.
 
This is probably it, but I can tell you not to use steel shot on a stainless slide. Reason being is it will imbed residual iron on the surface that can cause surface rusting. There is iron in the stainless steel and all steels are iron based but they passivate stainless. That's a bath in nitric acid that dissolves the iron on the surface and supposedly makes the chromium more "homogenous" on the surface. You don't want to use steel wool on stainless either.
Also not supposed to use media that has been previously used on carbon steel for the same reason.
 
Back
Top