Muzzle loader guys, school me please

Matt1911

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I got a traditions Kentucky pistol kit for a project and after I get everything fit properly, then stained and blued, I of course want to shoot it, but have no experience with muzzle loaders.

https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/product/Kentucky-Pistol-Kit-.50-cal-Percussion

The kit says to use Pyrodex, not black powder. Other than that, I'm in the dark so school me on it please. Load data, accessories to get or not to get, wad preferences, cleaning supplies etc.
 

dennishoddy

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I don't have a muzzle loader pistol, so no help on loads from me. Just want to say pyrodex and/or black powder is measured by volume, not by weight when working up a load. Academy will have the powder dispensers. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to use. When it comes to cleaning the gun after shooting, it's best to clean the day you shoot it. Pyrodex is very corrosive. You can buy several solvents, but they are just a waste of money. Good old dawn dish soap and hot water is all one needs to clean the gun. Be sure to scrub every nook and cranny.
 

TerryKendell

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The old rule of thumb is to put the round ball in the palm of your hand and cover it with black powder to start with.

Put some white butcher paper on the ground in front of when you shoot and look for unburned black powder.
Add or decrease powder until no unburned it the paper
 

Burk Cornelius

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Terry Kendell (Old Gun) said:
The old rule of thumb is to put the round ball in the palm of your hand and cover it with black powder to start with.

Put some white butcher paper on the ground in front of when you shoot and look for unburned black powder.
Add or decrease powder until no unburned it the paper

Old school. I like it
 

boomer mooner

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I've never shot a black powder pistol either, but if it's anything like rifles your barrel will fowl so bad in two or three shots you will have a hard time ramming the ball down the barrel. I found a trick on the innerwebs thats helped me out a lot. In between each shot I lick a clean patch and put it wet side down on the top of the barrel and then use a jag on your ramrod to work the patch in ever lengthening strokes to the bottom. Pull out the patch, turn it over and run the dry side of the patch down. You can shoot all day long if you do this without struggling to run your sabot into the bbl and as an added plus I've found my shots are a lot more consistent.
 

Scott Hearn

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Pistol like that needs a patched round ball. I'm thinking about 30 grains to start. Remember what Dennis said and use a black powder measure. Hot soapy water or Ballistol mixed with water for cleaning. You have to have the water to flush the salts out or your barrel will be toast. However you clean it, scrub the hell out of it and use a very hot water rinse and it'll dry in a couple of minutes. Then oil the hell out of it. You'll have to swab it out and pop a few caps before you load it up to shoot it the next time unless you are planning on shooting it immediately after loading.

Muzzleloaders are kinda fun to play with.
 

Matt1911

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Wall said:
Doesn't sound like it
Lol, yeah I know it's gonna be more of a chore than the autoloaders I'm used to where I just scrape out the thick buildup and spray with oil, but I've been wanting to get one for a long time and once I get it figured out it should be fun.
 

dennishoddy

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Scott G said:
I've never shot a black powder pistol either, but if it's anything like rifles your barrel will fowl so bad in two or three shots you will have a hard time ramming the ball down the barrel. I found a trick on the innerwebs thats helped me out a lot. In between each shot I lick a clean patch and put it wet side down on the top of the barrel and then use a jag on your ramrod to work the patch in ever lengthening strokes to the bottom. Pull out the patch, turn it over and run the dry side of the patch down. You can shoot all day long if you do this without struggling to run your sabot into the bbl and as an added plus I've found my shots are a lot more consistent.
Or a bronze bore brush on a cleaning rod.
 

Jefpainthorse

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the old time who broke me in (on some genuine old Kentucky rifles) favored one old rule of thumb... one grain per caliber.

40 cal= 40 grains... and in real black you get the powder in f to ffffg grain sizes... ffffg the finest. most small arms use fffg or ffffg and we used to used the ffffg to prime flinter's pans. Pyrodex is modern. Real black is around... I understand most of it ships from the Swiss and it's spendy

if you go by rules of thumb... start just a little low. two things will tell you if your on the right track- unburned powder... and when you get the right charge for THAT gun... the groups get tighter and consistent

If you can come across an OLD Dixie gun works catalog.. Mr Kirkland had collected all sorts of need to know things for black powder shooters... how to make brown metal finishes... formulas, tricks and shortcuts. They stopped printing all that stuff in the late 70's

if you pistol has a screw in breech plug... back that rascal out every cleaning. If you dont they seize right up. one day you will need it out and Ive had them so rusted in they simply stayed stuck... grease the threads
 

Matt1911

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Thanks for the tips.
I got it done and shot it with 20 grains of Pyrodex to be on the safe side. It shot fine every time, but the accuracy sucks. At 7 yards it was about 7 inches high and the group was about a 2" spread. May have to go to 30 grains and see if it tightens up.
 

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Jefpainthorse

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you probably know this... take that nipple out of the nipple drum every time you shoot it... and get a spare nipple.

i understand they have nipples that use 209 shotgun primers ... worth looking into
 

dennishoddy

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Jeff said:
you probably know this... take that nipple out of the nipple drum every time you shoot it... and get a spare nipple.

i understand they have nipples that use 209 shotgun primers ... worth looking into
Yes. Much hotter ignition.
I have a percussion cap mouse trap. Seriously.
 

Jefpainthorse

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Matt ... if you care to spend the time... when you find the right combo of charge and ball and patch and get the thing to shoot groups you can file on the sights to get POI and POA to match.

Muzzle stuffers can be fussy about the patch thickness... grease the patch... it helps.
 

Matt1911

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Jeff said:
Matt ... if you care to spend the time... when you find the right combo of charge and ball and patch and get the thing to shoot groups you can file on the sights to get POI and POA to match.

Muzzle stuffers can be fussy about the patch thickness... grease the patch... it helps.
The patches I have are pre greased. I may just file on the rear sight if 30 grains doesn't help it.
 

Jefpainthorse

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Matt Rigsby said:
Thanks for the tips.
I got it done and shot it with 20 grains of Pyrodex to be on the safe side. It shot fine every time, but the accuracy sucks. At 7 yards it was about 7 inches high and the group was about a 2" spread. May have to go to 30 grains and see if it tightens up.

Lot's of potential in these if your patient enough to work up the load. I had a old 36 caliber rifle that could ping rabbits and squirrels all day at 40 yards or more.... oh... when you get really addicted you will find that softer lead balls work better ... a good lead alloy should cut a little from thumbnail pressure...
 

Matt1911

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Just got done watching a video of Wallace Gussler making a flintlock rifle from scratch, I mean scratch. The guy didn't use a single power tool, made his own barrel from a chunk of steel including rifling it and even went so far as to make his own screws.
That my friends, is a man of men.
 

jcameron996

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I came across that YouTube video awhile back and thought there's no way I'm spending over an hour on a YouTube video. Hell, I watched it twice! Gave me a whole new appreciation for the way they did things back in the day.

Sent from my 2PQ93 using Tapatalk
 

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