Mold Lubrication

[Ken]

I'm getting lined up to cast a few hundred slugs this weekend. I've never done this but I've been reading about it and hopefully I have my ducks in a row. But one thing I overlooked is the need to lube the mold which from what I can see is essential. I could order some Lee bullet lube online but there's not time (without ridiculous expedited fees). Are there any acceptable substitutes?

Thanks!

 

[Tigerstripe]

ive never molded with a hand mold but i ran a 45 cal machine ,two bullets per mold and either 8 or ten rotating molds ( ok it could have been 6). that thing put out some bullets. there wasnt any time for lube.

but, isnt borax used for a flux in metalurgy?

 

[Ken]

I have some fluxing compound but a lot of people just use a speck of wax or even saw dust. Since this mold is aluminum which can gall Lee Precision recommends using their (of course) bullet lube but I've found out bee's wax or the wax seal that's used when installing toilets will work too.

Probably Saturday I'm going to be casting a few hundred 7/8 oz slugs

 

[Clicker]

Are you talking about lube for the sprue plate cam, pivot pins and alignment pins?
If so I have some Bullplate lube I use on those areas, I'm sure I could spare a few drops.

Some claim synthetic 2 cycle oil works OK.

 

[Ken]

Are you talking about lube for the sprue plate cam, pivot pins and alignment pins?
If so I have some Bullplate lube I use on those areas, I'm sure I could spare a few drops.

Some claim synthetic 2 cycle oil works OK.

Yes, these are the areas I'm talking about. I think the bee's wax will work and it's readily available. I appreciate the offer, I've seen where the Bullplate lube works very well. I'm going to get some for future casting session but I wanted to be able to get some casting done this weekend so the BW will work for now.

 

[Red Hat]

I never lube the pivot points or pins in my molds. You do need to prepare the mold for casting though. The best way to treat a bullet mold is to use a candle and smoke the cavities and the sprue plate. All you are doing is helping the mold release the cast bullet. You can buy a can of mold release that works well but the candle method works great and inexpensive.

 

[Clicker]

The bees wax has a low melting point and you run the risk of it flowing into the mold cavity, not a good thing IMO. Good luck & be careful.

Red Hat you really should try a dab of lube on those areas you'll be amazed at the difference it makes.

 

[Ken]

In the instructions I've seen about applying the wax you only use a very little bit, not enough to go anywhere. I'll have to restrain myself as I tend to be an over-luber.

I obtained a wax toilet seal and a jar of Murry's "Beeswax" but in reading the label I see that Petrolatum is the main ingredient. In doing some research I found out that this is basically petroleum jelly. Then I noticed the word "with" in very small letters on the jar, the words 100% Australian Beeswax in huge letters, duh. But, it's good for a lot of things. As has been suggested I can probably find unadulterated beeswax at a craft store. We'll see how it all goes.

 

[biganimal]

for over thirty years all I have ever used on my molds is case lube
the stuff ya put on rifle cases prior to sizing them
and ya don't need much

 

[Clicker]

Ken I have a block of beeswax from a local beekeeper also.
I'm not trying to sound like a d-bag but you guys really should step into the modern era and try some Bullplate.

 

[biganimal]

clicker
I have cast boolets for over 3 decades and have always used what works and what is on hand. I have tried bullplate and found it performs exactly as my case lube does. My "old fashioned" lube does the job at a fraction of the cost of bullplate and it serves me for two purposes. Being an "old" guy I am not prone to rush out and spend money on the latest innovations when I already have a dual purpose product at hand.
I am not offended if anyone wants to go modern and high dollar, it's your choice. I just answered a question based on my experience. Hope it helps.

 

[Clicker]

I hear ya biganimal, if it works then roll on. The cost of the Bullplate was pretty low considering how far it goes, these two bottles may last me another 10 years.
I figure I'm pretty frugal (read cheap) since I can load & shoot 9mm & 45 acp for less than it costs to buy bulk pack 22LR ammo.

Tell me about the case lube you're using vs the Bullplate. I've settled in on a Lanolin based case lube and doubt it would work as a mold lube.

 

[Ken]

Ken I have a block of beeswax from a local beekeeper also.
I'm not trying to sound like a d-bag but you guys really should step into the modern era and try some Bullplate.

Ha, not sounding like a d-bag at all....you should see some of the "Wild Wild West" boards I go on sometimes...no, not a problem. The thing is I wanted to do a bunch of casting today (Sunday) and I knew I wouldn't have time to order something without super expedited shipping and these days, quick ship costs a lot. I did find a "puck" of beeswax at Charleston Hardware on Wappoo Road so I'm good to go, setting things up now to do this in my garage.

I obtained an IR thermometer at the pawn shop next to Quickshot yesterday so hopefully within a margin of error I can keep up with my molten lead temps. As for recommendations on "best" temp it's a wide range and I'm sure it has to do with the environment and technique the person casting is using. So I'll see what works and what doesn't so much and keep up with it.

And I will definitely order some Bullplate for future use.

Btw, does anyone know of a slug mold other than the Lee and the Layman?

 

[Clicker]

I run my pot at 650 to 700 degrees.

The alum molds tend to get over heated easily so I keep a damp towel on a shallow tray and place the closed mold on it for a few seconds as needed.

The iron molds seem to thrive on the heat and don't require such attention.

 

[Ken]

Well my first casting session was a big learning experience. I got 150 slugs done and only burned myself 7-8 times. I found out that lead sinkers are capable of holding moisture in little nooks and crannys. This does not manifest itself until the sinker is in the bottom of the pot underneath 9 lbs of molten lead. And then, it produces what I'd call an "energetic reaction". The lead temp is important but I'd say the mold temp is more important. If it gets too hot lead can stick to the inside (even if it's properly smoked). If this happens the best time to clean it while it's hot with a brass brush. Not after it's cooled with a Dremel brass wheel. This might cause you to smooth an edge that should remain sharp totally screwing up the mold, which I think I did.

But if this is true, I'll just chalk it up as the cost of my education.

PS I did follow most of the suggestions given in this thread, and the ones I didn't it was because I forgot. Oh, and I'm getting some Bull Lube too. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Ken]

Melted down 35lbs of lead today, turned it into 645 7/8 oz slugs. Now to put them into bird shot shells. I've been shooting these at Quickshot and at the max distance there, I'm hitting what I put the red dot on although I'd like to try them at a longer distance. I'll probably end up with 20lbs or so of #7 1/2 and #8 shot and rather than melt it down I'd like to trade it to someone who can use it. Anyone have any #4 or 00 buck shot they'd like to trade?