Looking for a specific person!

[Chris54326]

I've been agonizing about what kind of finish to put on my Browning Hi-Power since I dislike the parkerized one so much. I had finally pared it down to a Black Nitride finish, but it was mentioned the heat from the process would dislodge the barrel bushing. When I contacted H&M and asked them if they'd had a problem with that, they said they'd never even heard of it before!

I'm trying to find someone who has specifically had H&M (or any other finisher) do a Black Nitride finish on a Browning Hi-Power. Any other firearm won't help me because it's the barrel bushing I'm concerned about in the Hi-Power. If you, or anyone you know has had one done, I'd appreciate comments or a way to contact them to get a review.

 

[ryanncass]

I bet its fine Bruce Piatt just posted this on Facebook Yesterday

 

[Chris54326]

Thanks, Bruce, but is there a pressed in barrel bushing on the Caspian? I'm not at all concerned about how good the finish is..............but I am concerned, as I mentioned, about the barrel bushing loosening as a result of the high heat used in the process. Oh, by the way, that's a beautiful finish on the Caspian.

 

[Robusto]

I think C&S works on Hi-Power's and understands the bushing issue you raise.
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=CP108

 

[Chris54326]

I sent him e-mail pictures of my BHP to ask if he could tell me the model number. Didn't think to ask him about the bushing problem. I'll e-mail him again.

I'm simply trying to find someone who has successfully had the black nitride process done on a Browning Hi-Power. So far, no luck.

 

[mike cyrwus]

ok, ive thought about this, and I am done with this saga, other than to hear how the rest of it goes!

at this point, its just a metal treatment, metal, metalbonding issue. We could be talking about oilfield parts at this point.

three possibilities,
1. its silversoldered in
2. its threaded
3. its friction/thermally fit.

#2 and #3 are a non issue, imo. #2 is obvious, and three is just a matter of geting a temp differential between the parts and pressing it back in.
#1 is just a matter of finding the melting temps and the nitride salt bath temps. if its close, you either re-silver solder it in, or get it converted to a screw in bushing prior to the nitriding, OR use a PVD coating like ionbond, which is applied via electric charge and not by immersion. its also a line-of -sight application.

 

[Chris54326]

Is Ionbond a long-lasting finish, Mike?

 

[Wall]

Ionbond is about as good as it gets

 

[Chris54326]

Not being familiar with any of these finishes, I certainly don't have any idea who might do a better job of applying Ionbond. Any suggestions?

 

[Wall]

Only Ionbond applies Ionbond

 

[Chris54326]

Okay, I realize only Iobond applies this specific finish, but it seems there are many places/middlemen to send the firearm to. And, from the many threads and posts I've read on the Internet, there seems to be a multitude of opinions as to the the quality received from those many different places. I know one of our members (Springer) offers the service and I've written to them. (they haven't had time to respond yet) But I've not found a general consensus as to the satisfactory results from one "middle-man" of the process anywhere..........which was the basis for the question of "who might do a better job".

 

[Scott Hearn]

As usual Cyrwus is spot on. Does the slide have an actual bushing? If so, and it's a press fit just have a gunsmith remove it, then nitride the gun and have it reinstalled. The nitride process will definitely melt the silver solder if that's how they are retained so the answer there is actually easier. Have it removed, nitride, and re-solder afterward.

The nitride in my opinion is a better finish simply because it's much much thicker than Ion Bond. It also gives a substantial increase in corrosion resistance to the parts. Nitride will not affect the temper of the steel, it's done at around 950-1150 degrees, while it takes around 1450 degrees to sub-critical anneal 4140 steel (what most guns are made from), a full anneal takes well north of 1500.

 

[Chris54326]

Thanks, Scott. I think, for now at least, I'll just live with my parkerized finish. It's not very attractive, but it's going to cost as much as this pistol is worth to get the entire job completed. Don't know if I'm ready to spend that much just to make it more attractive.........................and it sure isn't going to make it shoot any better!

 

[mike cyrwus]

you have chosen wisely

 

[Chris54326]

Yea, I hate it when I do that at the expense of what I really want! :sarcastichand: