Load development in your 3 gun rifle

Browtine

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When you guys are doing load development or testing factory ammo in your 3 gun rifles, do you use your low powered optics or switch out to something with a little more magnification to really find out what the gun is capable of? .

My groups are right around 1.5" with 4x but I think the gun can do better. I'll probably throw on a 12x sometime this winter and see how much they tighten up.
 

jtischauser

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I am not a big reloaded but I only own a 6 power scope and it always stays on my 3 gun rifle. I never even shoot mine off a rest. I zero everything of and test different brands of ammo prone with a pair of coupled mags as my only support.
 

dennishoddy

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Every scope I have is variable power.
When I sight in, I'll zero at the highest power, then check zero at mid and finally low magnification. Good scopes should stay zero'd at all levels of magnification.
 

Browtine

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Every scope I have is variable power.
When I sight in, I'll zero at the highest power, then check zero at mid and finally low magnification. Good scopes should stay zero'd at all levels of magnification.

That's exactly how I do it with my hunting rigs, but the lowest powered scope I have on my bolt guns is a 2-7x and most are in the 2.5-10x range. It's a lot easier to shoot groups at 7x or 10x. My 3 gun scope maxes out at 4x so I was thinking about completely swapping out the scope for one with higher magnification to do my load development. Just wondered if anyone else was going to that amount of trouble.
 

brandt9913

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I don't know how realistic it would be to work up a specific load for 3 gun unless you plan to use a brass catcher installed on your gun. Range brass is going to be a mixture of all kinds of different manufacturers that all have different case capacities and cause consultancy issues. If you were able to produce sub MOA ammo with range brass, I would be surprised. Also, shooting sub MOA with an AR is not an easy task to start with. The 55 gr bullet gets pushed around by wind way too easy and the 69 gr isnt much better.
 

Mac MacDonald

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I don't know how realistic it would be to work up a specific load for 3 gun unless you plan to use a brass catcher installed on your gun. Range brass is going to be a mixture of all kinds of different manufacturers that all have different case capacities and cause consultancy issues.

How are they about picking up your brass at the matches you shoot at? I just mark all my brass with a green sharpie and police my brass after my squad is done shooting. I don't have a problem finding mine but, you're right, I do pick up a lot of strays. One thing I've noticed about shooting ARs is that most guys don't reload, and this rocks! I'm always cool with free brass. I can sort it, sell it, trade it, whatever.
 

brandt9913

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How are they about picking up your brass at the matches you shoot at? I just mark all my brass with a green sharpie and police my brass after my squad is done shooting. I don't have a problem finding mine but, you're right, I do pick up a lot of strays. One thing I've noticed about shooting ARs is that most guys don't reload, and this rocks! I'm always cool with free brass. I can sort it, sell it, trade it, whatever.

I'm one of the people that doesn't reload 223. I've considered starting, but I don't mess with picking up 223 brass. When I was shooting a bolt 308 in F/TR matches, I always reloaded. A friend of mine had a FNAR in 308. most of his brass was a pain to re-size because the lugs dinged up the case neck pretty bad.

Is an AR just as bad about dinging up the case necks?
 

uscbigdawg

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Getting sub-MOA ammo out of an AR is not difficult at all with good ammo and a good barrel. The distances we shoot are not far and that "masks" a lot of ammo/rifle variables.

That said, keep in mind, we're not trying to shoot flys at 100 yards. A 2-3 MOA rifle is plenty accurate for 3-Gun. When I started out, I developed loads looking for the tightest groups at 100. However, after spending the last couple of years shooting long range practical/sniper matches, I prefer predictable impacts over tight groups. Long story short, I use the Dan Newberry Optimum Charge Weight method. It sounds more complicated than it is, and while it's a little tedious up front, the confidence in making a shot and knowing where it's going to hit, is pretty sweet.

As for scopes, like everyone else, check your impact at various powers and at various distances.

Don't obsess on group size too much though. Get a good 200 yard zero (or whatever you prefer) and then practice position shooting from there. At 1.5" at 100, you're roughly 6" at 400, which will cover you for >90% of 3-Gun matches. You're generally shooting at a 12-18" target at that distance, so you're still nailing it with a margin of error.

Rich
 

rustin

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A 3 MOA rifle will hurt you pretty badly in 3-gun if you want to be competitive.
 

dennishoddy

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Make sure your scope is at a right angle to the bore.To test this, go to a hundred yd range, use the windage and elevation knobs to get the group to move around at a square with the same number of clicks.
 

pranavdc

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A great way to get damn close with your cross hairs being perpendicular and Horizontal respectively is use automotive feeler gauge from the bottom of the bell on your scope to the flat of your mount. This will usually get you nats ass close then run the box drill you are describing.
 

jtischauser

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A great way to get damn close with your cross hairs being perpendicular and Horizontal respectively is use automotive feeler gauge from the bottom of the bell on your scope to the flat of your mount. This will usually get you nats ass close then run the box drill you are describing.

I need a picture of that if you have one.
 

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