Let's talk Turkey I mean Duracoat...

BenchMonkey

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As I mentioned in my new guy post I was gifted with the 30+ y/o basement build my Da and I put togeather. Needless to say the parkerized finish has worn in several areas like the base of the slide forward of the frame and from wear in the usual spots from many years of dependable service.

I thought about doing my own Turnbull style restoration but I'm not looking for a mausoleum piece that some Brit would call "funeral grade". Looking to restore it to a better finish and function than it is now, while replacing the mainspring (17lb Wilson Combat), barrel and link from the same have improved function the finish is worn and I'd like to update it.

So here we are, while minor tasks like polishing a feed ramp or throwing an AR togeather are tasks readily accomplished, refinishing this gun is a little out of my lane of fire. Sure hand me a few cans of Krylon and presto, quick and dirty camo job ready for work.

Absolute zero experiance with Duracote, so any insight, experiance, "don't do that's" are appreciated.

My understanding of the process it's all in the prep and I don't need a kiln or a paint gun to accomplish this task. Right, wrong or "come here cupcake and let's have a chat...." :D
 

Bender

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Sounds as if it has some character? Can you post a pic or three?

My only experience with DuraCoat has not been good. It lays down thick, has a slight orange peel to the finish and it really doesn’t wear well. If it were my project, I would wait and save up funds to have the pistol professionally Ceracoated. Generally around $350.

I’m considering NP3+ for a refinish project.
 
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ILED93

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Sounds as if it has some character? Can you post a pic or three?

My only experience with DuraCoat has not been good. It lays down thick, has a slight orange peel to the finish and it really doesn’t wear well. If it were my project, I would wait and save up funds to have the pistol professionally Ceracoated. Generally around $350.

I’m considering NP3+ for a refinish project.

That's interesting. I had a 5" RIA with factory DuraCoat when I was first getting into 1911's. It was smooth as silk and seemed to wear pretty well. Granted, it was a range gun and a "learning the platform" piece for me. It was never holstered or carried.
 

Bender

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It might hold up ok for a range gun. The orange peel may have been from the individuals applying it. I’ve just seen Ceracote jobs that were as flat and even as parkerizing or bluing.
 

azpoolguy

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Apr 3, 2018
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That pistol has a lot of character that would be lost with the prep to Duracote or Cerakote. I would like at parkerizing or blueing.
 

fatbaldguy

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Sep 22, 2018
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The provenance of the gun far outweighs any restoration or re-finishing. Hell, I'd carry that sucker from here to the Gates of Hell and back, as is.
If'n your lookin' to re-finish it, go with Park. Keep it as close to what you and your Dad did as possible.
 

Busa Dave

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Nov 7, 2018
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You know given the history here it would be my choice and it might not be the most durable of all the finishes out there however I would spend the money and have it parkerized. Just my thought to keep it "period" to you and your dad if you will.
 

sablue7

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Nov 27, 2018
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Duracoat this nice 1911 that has character and history?!?! Noooooooo!
Parkarize or blue or just spend the time to keep it clean and oiled and leave the finish alone.
 
Joined
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My first reply, if your Dad wouldn't object cerakote. I like cerakoted guns. I've had several redone and the finished product is great, and they have alot of different colors. Get it done by a professional cerakoter and or gunsmith and you will be pleased.
 

taz4712

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Jul 29, 2018
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I've used Duracoat on a number of pieces. Tactical Shot gun, 3" Springer, 5" Springer G.I. never had a problem with orange peel or wear issues. I am in the process of using their new bluing product. They give you everything you need in the kits. I use a spay gun/air brush and mix the hardener and color myself. All you have to do is remember THIN coats and let it dry between applications. They recommend at least 4-5 thin coats to get the right finish. I also use a heat gun between coats and then a good long heat on the final coat. Hope that helps. I would blue that beauty rather than color it...
 

BenchMonkey

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Nov 12, 2018
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Well I talked with the old man yesterday and got a response I didn't expect, Cerakote that puppy! He asked if I had any objections to it and nope! I did the same and got sumthin in my eye when he told me that it was being neglected because of all his new toys and to have as much fun with it as we did building it.

Goody goody! Time for the 11 y/o and I to work on sumthin togeather! I even have my eye on some 80% frame/slide combos, one is a full dust cover model...
 

Zipper046

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I duracoated my G35 about 9 years ago...it's held up well . Just need to do the proper prep work...clean the area well....and take your time with the coats...a few light coats with some dry time in between worked well...avoid coats that are too thick, as they "run" and the thickness can be seen....

g35 stipple4.JPG g35 stipple2.JPG g35 stipple1.JPG
 

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