Glock work

[tacticalj]

So I'm looking at working on my G23 trigger and also replacing the guide rod and spring. Has anybody done any of this, as I'm sure some of you race guys have. I'm not looking to make a race gun, but would like to lighten and make the trigger more consistent overall. I'm also hoping that it may improve accuracy or more importantly improve target aquisition time. I was thinking of a 3.5# connector, 6lb trigger spring, 4lb striker spring, and a 4lb safety plunger spring. I'm also looking at polishing the connector and other components inside the frame.

Now I'm also looking at replacing the guide rod with a stainless unit and replacing the spring as well. I will also add a recoil buffer while I'm there. This is where I get alittle out of whack. I was looking at Glockworx sight and they suggest a 15lb recoil spring. Factory is 17lbs. Help set my mind straight on this, because I would think that a heavier spring would help reduce the recoil more then a lighter spring! I'm probably wrong, as I'm not presuming to know what the guys at Glockworx know, but I need some help understanding this.

My next question is on refinishing the slide. I read a post somewhere, I think OSA, that someone had simply stripped and polished their slide. I was thinking that there was no mention of plating the slide. Anybody fimiliar with this? If so is it recommended? I'm torn between polishing the slide, as I don't want to have it chromed, or stripping, blasting, and duracoating it. If polished I think a set of "shiny" pins and takedown lever would be in order.

So I'm asking for your thougts, good bad or otherwise. Opinions, facts, and otherwise on Glockworx parts (I would appreciate actual users of these parts to reply). Ideas and feedback on spring and weight choices. Please keep in mind that this will serve mostly as a range/defense setup. I can do what I want to my pistol, within reason, because it also has to be inspected and approved. Just let me know what you think, as I'd like to give it a custom look as well.
Thanks for you time, Jason

 

[rehi]

Personally I would stay with the 17# spring if shooting factory ammo.
Most people move down in spring poundage when shooting reloads.
As the reduced loads will function better with less spring pressure
and the reduced recoil will get you back on target faster.
Also the lower spring pressure will stop the muzzle dive
caused by the slide going forward.
If this is going to be a range only gun with light loads you may even
be able to go to a 13# and still work good,
but you would never want to run it with full power loads and that spring setup.

A lot of sites recommend that you don't use the lighter trigger/connector springs
in a carry gun, only in range guns.
But a lot of people do.

As to the slide polishing. the slide is not stainless.
So I would think you would need some sort of clear-coat on it.
So that your sweat and oils in your fingerprint would not stain it.
Otherwise you would be constantly repolishing to keep it nice.
You might look at "Metaloy" and see if you like that look.

If your going to get serious with it and shoot a lot of reloads and want good accuracy start with a Lone Wolf or KKM barrel for the added chamber support and better rifling.

These are just my opinions and I'm sure everybody will chime in with theirs.

 

[Airic]

I would stick with all Glock OEM parts and give her a good polishing. Most I've ever done to my carry/defense guns is drop the 3.5# connector in and pull out the trigger to polish the contact areas. If you've shot the gun enough for the trigger to have wear marks from contact, polish those to a mirror and leave the rest of the trigger alone.

As far as recoil springs, lighter springs are commonly believed to reduce muzzle flip and preceived recoil (Spring Info)). I would be very careful with this in a defense gun, and if your hell bent on replacing the spring and guide rod just make sure you test, test, test.....with your defense loads.

 

[tacticalj]

Well I've changed some of the springs around and done some polishing, plus added a 3.5 connector. I'm not totally sold on it yet, but I'm still playing around with the springs. I bought a wolf spring pack and am now playing around with it. I also replaced the recoil rod with a stainless setup and added a recoil buffer just to see what happens. If I don't like it, well I got all the factory stuff to put back in it.

I really only shoot factory ammo, but I've got all the stuff to reload, minus the bullets at this point. We'll see what happens, keep ya posted.

 

[mike cyrwus]

On a gun thats used at all for defense, I would only recommend a 3.5 connector and keep the springs stock.

 

[tacticalj]

So I did try alittle slide polishing. Don't think It's for me! On that note, I started duracoating yesterday and I'll throw up some pictures as soon as I get it done. It's looking good so far, as I did the frame, extractor, and endplate in OD. I did the slide in black. I figured the factory black on the trigger and mag release would help break it up. Plus I got some black grip deals to put on it. Oh yeah and a decent deal on some titanium pins.

Now I just gotta figure out what sight set to use. Any thoughts? Thinking XS bigdots, not sure.

 

[mike cyrwus]

plain black rear, tritium w/ white outline or FO front. whichever you prefer and shoot with.

 

[tacticalj]

I don't like the way my second color turned out! I taped the sensations on the slide and painted the inside or grooved section of the serrartions in od. I don't like the way it turned out and I think I'm gonna have it blasted off and redo it.

So my question is, should I paint the grooves of the serations first and then tape and paint the complete slide black or do it these, which is paint the entire slide black and then paint the grooves od, which is how I did it the first time.

Keep in mind this is my second time duracoating and my fiesta time putting one color on top of another. I know in autobody, I would lay down the first color and then go over it with the other. So what say you?