Jackary
Well-Known Fanatic
Anyone have some wisdom or advice that they could give me on planting a food plot for deer season. Pretty new to hunting other than waterfowl.
Food plots
- Thread starter Jackary
- Start date
dennishoddy
Moderator
I'm on my phone, but when I get on a computer I'll see if I can help later this evening.
jspeligene
Well-Known Fanatic
I picked up 100 lbs of catjang cowpeas and Dad got them in the ground Tuesday. Anxious to see how they turn out. Supposed to be great for turkey, quail,deer, etc.
dennishoddy
Moderator
I've been putting in food plots of various sizes for a long time, so hopefully we can get you started on a good one.
I guess the first question is do you want a food plot to attract deer, or do you want food plots that remain year after year to provide protein for antler growth and a healthy herd.
Is this your land, or a lease, and what part of the State is it in? Has the land been farmed previously, or are you breaking ground for a new plot?
The first thing you have to do, no matter what is to make sure the soil is healthy. Take a soil sample from a dozen places around the area where the food plot will be at root depth. You'll have to take a shovel and a 5 gallon bucket. Dig down about 6" put a small sample in the bucket and at the end of the day, mix it throughly. Any of your local Farmers COOPS can supply sample bags for about $10. They are sent to Oklahoma State University, for analysis.
Here is where your decision about planting comes in. You have to tell them what your planting, and they will give recomendations for the amount of lime, fertilizer, etc that the soil needs to produce the crop. Clover crops that last year after year will require one thing, and if you want to plant some of the other annual food plot seeds they will require different ammendments to the soil.
Sounds complicated, but its not. I'm just covering all bases.
At this time, just need to know what type of plot you want to put in, and what your interested in planting.
I guess the first question is do you want a food plot to attract deer, or do you want food plots that remain year after year to provide protein for antler growth and a healthy herd.
Is this your land, or a lease, and what part of the State is it in? Has the land been farmed previously, or are you breaking ground for a new plot?
The first thing you have to do, no matter what is to make sure the soil is healthy. Take a soil sample from a dozen places around the area where the food plot will be at root depth. You'll have to take a shovel and a 5 gallon bucket. Dig down about 6" put a small sample in the bucket and at the end of the day, mix it throughly. Any of your local Farmers COOPS can supply sample bags for about $10. They are sent to Oklahoma State University, for analysis.
Here is where your decision about planting comes in. You have to tell them what your planting, and they will give recomendations for the amount of lime, fertilizer, etc that the soil needs to produce the crop. Clover crops that last year after year will require one thing, and if you want to plant some of the other annual food plot seeds they will require different ammendments to the soil.
Sounds complicated, but its not. I'm just covering all bases.
At this time, just need to know what type of plot you want to put in, and what your interested in planting.
hermnrob
Well-Known Fanatic
^^^^^ PH balance in the soil is a major factor. I plant a Summer plot to keep the meat around and a winter plot to keep the meat coming back. I also plant different vegetation on the same plot but in separate section. Like clover, snow peas and rape. The clover and snow peas go first and the rape will sweeten up after the frost and the cold weather moves in. That just a few thing that i know that work in my area. What I plant in my location might be different for you due to climate.
I just try to create a salad bar buffet so they keep coming back.
I just try to create a salad bar buffet so they keep coming back.
Jackary
Well-Known Fanatic
This is a lease in central Oklahoma I am wanting to plant something to attract deer and other wildlife not worried about planting something that will come back year after year
hermnrob
Well-Known Fanatic
Don't forget a salt block or granule salt mixed in the dirt.
dennishoddy
Moderator
Like Marshal said, "what works in one geographical location, may not work in another"
Central Oklahoma is not a good location for any Brassica's, or Rape type food plots. They require an early frost to turn the carbs into sugar. Thats when the deer will start to browse on them. In Central Ok, it may not get a freeze until after deer season gun season is already over.
Probably the most fool proof food plot for the first timer is plain old wheat. Plant around the middle of September, after working the ground. It doesn't require a lot of equipment either. The first few years I put one in, took a push mower out to the area, mowed, and then took a garden rototiller to tear up the soil. Hand broadcast the wheat like feeding chickens, and basically drove over it with the truck to compact the soil and get good seed to soil contact.
If you live in a rural area, and don't have any equipment, attend farm auctions of long time old farmers. In their junk piles will be small sections of spring tooth, Harrows, etc that can usually be bought for scrap iron price. Pull them with a 4 wheeler or your truck.
Do you have access to farm equipment?
Central Oklahoma is not a good location for any Brassica's, or Rape type food plots. They require an early frost to turn the carbs into sugar. Thats when the deer will start to browse on them. In Central Ok, it may not get a freeze until after deer season gun season is already over.
Probably the most fool proof food plot for the first timer is plain old wheat. Plant around the middle of September, after working the ground. It doesn't require a lot of equipment either. The first few years I put one in, took a push mower out to the area, mowed, and then took a garden rototiller to tear up the soil. Hand broadcast the wheat like feeding chickens, and basically drove over it with the truck to compact the soil and get good seed to soil contact.
If you live in a rural area, and don't have any equipment, attend farm auctions of long time old farmers. In their junk piles will be small sections of spring tooth, Harrows, etc that can usually be bought for scrap iron price. Pull them with a 4 wheeler or your truck.
Do you have access to farm equipment?
Jackary
Well-Known Fanatic
I have access to a small tractor and box blade but that's about it
siegfried99
Fanatic
What is your opinion on Alfalfa as a food plot ?
dennishoddy
Moderator
Alfalfa is great as long as you keep it mowed so the new sprouts keep coming up. Left alone it turns woody, and becomes a jungle. Not a good plot. In the winter when it goes dormant, the deer don't seem to hit it much in my area anyway.
Jackary, you have just about every thing you need, if the box blade has rippers. Raise it up enough after you have removed the weeds to scar the soil, throw some seed on it, and run over it again lightly to get it into the soil.
If you can find some old box springs or a section of chain link fence with a little weight on it to pull behind the tractor/truck/atv after scattering the seed its even better.
Food plots can be put in on a budget. Been there done that.
Jackary, you have just about every thing you need, if the box blade has rippers. Raise it up enough after you have removed the weeds to scar the soil, throw some seed on it, and run over it again lightly to get it into the soil.
If you can find some old box springs or a section of chain link fence with a little weight on it to pull behind the tractor/truck/atv after scattering the seed its even better.
Food plots can be put in on a budget. Been there done that.
Jackary
Well-Known Fanatic
Awesome i appreciate all of the feedback and advice what are your thoughts on ryegrass
dennishoddy
Moderator
I know guys that use rye grass. They have good success with it.
One important step I forgot, is that before you mow, spray the area with a strong concentration of roundup and 2-4-D to kill perennial plants and any woody growth. Do this about 3-4 weeks before mowing so the chemicals can get their full potential into killing the weeds.
Even then, don't be surprised to see weeds pop up after you break up the ground. Seeds can be latent in the ground for years. Spray again the following year, and so on.
One important step I forgot, is that before you mow, spray the area with a strong concentration of roundup and 2-4-D to kill perennial plants and any woody growth. Do this about 3-4 weeks before mowing so the chemicals can get their full potential into killing the weeds.
Even then, don't be surprised to see weeds pop up after you break up the ground. Seeds can be latent in the ground for years. Spray again the following year, and so on.
Jackary
Well-Known Fanatic
Good to know I appreciate all the information and advice
