First timer in CA

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Yambra

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I'm new to the world of 1911 building/modifying. I have done AR and Glock builds/mods, but that's obviously not even close to being in the same level. I currently own 2 1911s. The first is a Dan Wesson PM7 45 and I just recently got a Citadel.

The Citadel has been having feeding issues from day one. I know you get what you pay for. It seems it's due to too much extractor tension. I read somewhere someone saying to throw away that extractor and replace it with a good quality part.

Anyway, blah, blah, blah. To get to the point I was thinking about rebuilding the whole gun. Actually changing it over to 10mm. In California we technically can't build 80% handguns. In California we also don't have many options available to us for 10mm guns; pretty much glocks and revolvers. So I figured this would be the next best thing. I have come across people saying they would never build on a RIA frame because they are junk. I'm not looking for match quality results. But my question is, would it be ok to use as a learning platform or should I consider a different route to learn? What do you suggest?

Brad
 
CECannonJr

CECannonJr

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I'm new to the world of 1911 building/modifying. I have done AR and Glock builds/mods, but that's obviously not even close to being in the same level. I currently own 2 1911s. The first is a Dan Wesson PM7 45 and I just recently got a Citadel.

The Citadel has been having feeding issues from day one. I know you get what you pay for. It seems it's due to too much extractor tension. I read somewhere someone saying to throw away that extractor and replace it with a good quality part.

Anyway, blah, blah, blah. To get to the point I was thinking about rebuilding the whole gun. Actually changing it over to 10mm. In California we technically can't build 80% handguns. In California we also don't have many options available to us for 10mm guns; pretty much glocks and revolvers. So I figured this would be the next best thing. I have come across people saying they would never build on a RIA frame because they are junk. I'm not looking for match quality results. But my question is, would it be ok to use as a learning platform or should I consider a different route to learn? What do you suggest?

Brad
I would suggest you move forward with what you have. It doesn't matter who made the frame as long as it's made to print spec. If it's functional now, most likely you have a good frame to work with. Don't expect it to be an inexpensive project. Good parts, such as the Wilson Combat Bulletproof line are expensive, but well worth the price.
 
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Whit

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I'm new to the world of 1911 building/modifying. I have done AR and Glock builds/mods, but that's obviously not even close to being in the same level. I currently own 2 1911s. The first is a Dan Wesson PM7 45 and I just recently got a Citadel.

The Citadel has been having feeding issues from day one. I know you get what you pay for. It seems it's due to too much extractor tension. I read somewhere someone saying to throw away that extractor and replace it with a good quality part.

Anyway, blah, blah, blah. To get to the point I was thinking about rebuilding the whole gun. Actually changing it over to 10mm. In California we technically can't build 80% handguns. In California we also don't have many options available to us for 10mm guns; pretty much glocks and revolvers. So I figured this would be the next best thing. I have come across people saying they would never build on a RIA frame because they are junk. I'm not looking for match quality results. But my question is, would it be ok to use as a learning platform or should I consider a different route to learn? What do you suggest?

Brad
Welcome from northern Indiana enjoy the conversation.
 
HooDoo Man

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Welcome to the best and most informative forum on earth. True patriots abound. From one putting up with life in a gulag :)(Kalifornia) to another, I would defiantly change out the extractor. Personally, I wound not invest in a rebuild. The DW PM7 is a solid gun, I have one. My next move(addiction) is to move on up to a Springer TRP, MC Operator, LB, or whatever you think is too much $$$$. Becuse if you're like me you'll think, did I just spend too much? Then once you get it, you'll say that was the best thing I've done in a long time.:cool:
 
Mike D

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Welcome! I lived out there when I was in the service, before the full commie rule took over, today, you have my sympathies!
As for the pistol, I would suggest that first, you polish the hell out of the feed ramp, and when you think it's good, hit it dome more. That fix's a lot of feed problems. I agree, it would be too costly for the rebuild idea. You have a good one in the DW, that's for sure. Maybe save up for a while and go for a Wilson or other custom, or semi-custom in 10 mm?
 
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Yambra

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Welcome to the best and most informative forum on earth. True patriots abound. From one putting up with life in a gulag :)(Kalifornia) to another, I would defiantly change out the extractor. Personally, I wound not invest in a rebuild. The DW PM7 is a solid gun, I have one. My next move(addiction) is to move on up to a Springer TRP, MC Operator, LB, or whatever you think is too much $$$$. Becuse if you're like me you'll think, did I just spend too much? Then once you get it, you'll say that was the best thing I've done in a long time.:cool:
I don't know if I'd consider any of those Springfields an upgrade to the Dan Wesson. Being that I'm from Long Beach I'd probably consider the LB if it was available. And I'd probably consider getting a Springfield as a defense weapon over the Dan Wesson just because I wouldn't want the authorities to hold my Dan Wesson. Also, I can't get a Springfield in 10mm here in CA.
 
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Yambra

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Welcome! I lived out there when I was in the service, before the full commie rule took over, today, you have my sympathies!
As for the pistol, I would suggest that first, you polish the hell out of the feed ramp, and when you think it's good, hit it dome more. That fix's a lot of feed problems. I agree, it would be too costly for the rebuild idea. You have a good one in the DW, that's for sure. Maybe save up for a while and go for a Wilson or other custom, or semi-custom in 10 mm?
I ended up adjusting the extractor for now. It is feeding well now. As for getting a 10mm, I would have to buy the 45acp version and send it back to be converted. That might be something I can consider doing with a Springfield. The high end custom route, like Wilson, would practically require a mortgage.
 
squarebale19

squarebale19

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I ended up adjusting the extractor for now. It is feeding well now. As for getting a 10mm, I would have to buy the 45acp version and send it back to be converted. That might be something I can consider doing with a Springfield. The high end custom route, like Wilson, would practically require a mortgage.
 
squarebale19

squarebale19

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YouTube has some great videos from Wilson on how to adjust and tune an extractor but I would probably buy a cylinder and slide or Wilson extractor or even STI has a good extractor. Then I would make sure I had a good magazine instead of a stock one. But If you are converting a 45 ACP wouldn’t it be easier to convert a 40 Cal to a 10 mm? Have fun with your project hope to read about the finished results.
 
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Yambra

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YouTube has some great videos from Wilson on how to adjust and tune an extractor but I would probably buy a cylinder and slide or Wilson extractor or even STI has a good extractor. Then I would make sure I had a good magazine instead of a stock one. But If you are converting a 45 ACP wouldn’t it be easier to convert a 40 Cal to a 10 mm? Have fun with your project hope to read about the finished results.
The mags that came with it were junk. One feel apart and the other one held the rounds too high and wouldn't let the slide release. It would be easier to convert. 40 to 10mm but there aren't any 40 cal 1911s on the California roster.
 
squarebale19

squarebale19

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The mags that came with it were junk. One feel apart and the other one held the rounds too high and wouldn't let the slide release. It would be easier to convert. 40 to 10mm but there aren't any 40 cal 1911s on the California dual action about lil over 7lbs and single 3.5lbs,but out of all my dual actions with short resets, this one feels like it should. Jmo
 
squarebale19

squarebale19

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I’m surprised my sti duty one isn’t on the list, but I’d look at that cz75 and put a cajun gunworks kit on it and you might change religions, I did it to a cz97 and it’s definitely a go to gun now, bought it used and installed kit for about 1100, dual action about lil over 7lbs and single 3.5lbs,but out of all my dual actions with short resets, this one feels like it should. JmoA693B639 5156 4499 AA45 0DB04BB3B527
 

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Yambra

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I’m surprised my sti duty one isn’t on the list, but I’d look at that cz75 and put a cajun gunworks kit on it and you might change religions, I did it to a cz97 and it’s definitely a go to gun now, bought it used and installed kit for about 1100, dual action about lil over 7lbs and single 3.5lbs,but out of all my dual actions with short resets, this one feels like it should. JmoView attachment 10912
This is already in the works. I have a 75b and a compact with manual safety that I'm making payments on. I'll probably get a 97 after that. Too bad CZ Custom discontinued the 10mm conversion for the 97.
 
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Bob Lee

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I ended up adjusting the extractor for now. It is feeding well now. As for getting a 10mm, I would have to buy the 45acp version and send it back to be converted. That might be something I can consider doing with a Springfield. The high end custom route, like Wilson, would practically require a mortgage.
Yessssss
 
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Bob Lee

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The mags that came with it were junk. One feel apart and the other one held the rounds too high and wouldn't let the slide release. It would be easier to convert. 40 to 10mm but there aren't any 40 cal 1911s on the California roster
 
switchback

switchback

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Welcome to the site, enjoy the convo.

Not to be argumentative, but please be careful polishing the feedramp. A slight change in geometry and you'll own a paperweight. Ditto smoothing the transition from frame ramp to barrel throat.

A quality extractor is paramount to 100% function. Likely the factory piece won't hold adjustments long. Before you set tension, study up on deflection - and start there. With proper deflection you can set tension easily.
 
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Yambra

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I have read people saying that the factory extractor won't hold adjustment. I adjusted it to work for now just to verify the extractor was the issue. I plan to use a quality extractor and I will take the time to set the deflection with that part.
 

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