Jeff T.
Well-Known Fanatic
Thank You! That is very generous of you!
Fireclean
- Thread starter Tactica
- Start date
45recoil
likes to party
Careful Jeff, don't want it to get to his head, he's OD'd on Man UP.
Tactica
Well-Known Fanatic
All,
Glad some of you are putting it through it's paces. I'll be interested to see what other competition shooters find. I've now tested it on several of my own firearms. After seeing what it did on my open comp, chamber area of my 2011s and bolt on the AR, i was just amazed... BTW: someone asked about a comp on a .22... don't know about .22LR comps, but on my 2011 9mm major power factor open gun (Schuman barrell and custom comp) the thing came amazingly clean. After the comp was treated then shot two matches, the carbon just wiped off... it's like it was repelled from the metal. Carbon build-up just wipes off of what I normally consider the 'baked' on areas. One of the toughest areas on my pistol used to be feed ramp and right around the firing pin... not anymore.
BTW Jesse, something to be mindful of with this stuff, you don't want to "coat" or have it "running" off the gun. From their... "application" page on their site...
+ + + +
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white]1) Degrease unloaded gun. Shake bottle. Using FIREClean, wipe surfaces completely clean of existing lubricant, grease, and gunk. Apply FIREClean liberally as a cleaner- it extracts carbon fouling like you won’t believe. Allow to soak in overnight if possible. Wipe off. [/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white][background=white]2) Once clean, apply a thin layer of FIREClean over all internal surfaces subject to carbon or friction*. Wipe excess off. Only a thin layer is needed.[/background][/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white][background=white]3) On parts you wish to fully condition, apply multiple thin layers of FIREClean until it is no longer absorbed into metal. Repeat as needed. [/background][/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white][background=white]4) Shoot gun, reapply FIREClean as desired in cleaning/conditioning process. [/background]Do not use other oils, cleaners, or lubricants once applied.[/background][/font]
[background=white]*this includes: Pistol: outside of barrel, inside bore, barrel hood, breech face, feed ramp, inside of slide, muzzle/bushing
AR-15 and similar rifles: entire surface of bolt, bolt carrier, cam pin, firing pin, inner walls of upper receiver, outside of muzzle device and inside receiver extension (buffer tube), buffer, and action spring. Anodized aluminum absorbs FireClean quickly but steel (bolt and carrier) takes longer and may require multiple coats. [/background]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white]Please see http://www.youtube.com/firecleanusa for demo videos and www.cleanergun.com or [email protected] for additional info. We welcome your feedback![/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white]+ + + +[/background][/font]
Glad some of you are putting it through it's paces. I'll be interested to see what other competition shooters find. I've now tested it on several of my own firearms. After seeing what it did on my open comp, chamber area of my 2011s and bolt on the AR, i was just amazed... BTW: someone asked about a comp on a .22... don't know about .22LR comps, but on my 2011 9mm major power factor open gun (Schuman barrell and custom comp) the thing came amazingly clean. After the comp was treated then shot two matches, the carbon just wiped off... it's like it was repelled from the metal. Carbon build-up just wipes off of what I normally consider the 'baked' on areas. One of the toughest areas on my pistol used to be feed ramp and right around the firing pin... not anymore.
BTW Jesse, something to be mindful of with this stuff, you don't want to "coat" or have it "running" off the gun. From their... "application" page on their site...
+ + + +
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white]1) Degrease unloaded gun. Shake bottle. Using FIREClean, wipe surfaces completely clean of existing lubricant, grease, and gunk. Apply FIREClean liberally as a cleaner- it extracts carbon fouling like you won’t believe. Allow to soak in overnight if possible. Wipe off. [/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white][background=white]2) Once clean, apply a thin layer of FIREClean over all internal surfaces subject to carbon or friction*. Wipe excess off. Only a thin layer is needed.[/background][/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white][background=white]3) On parts you wish to fully condition, apply multiple thin layers of FIREClean until it is no longer absorbed into metal. Repeat as needed. [/background][/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white][background=white]4) Shoot gun, reapply FIREClean as desired in cleaning/conditioning process. [/background]Do not use other oils, cleaners, or lubricants once applied.[/background][/font]
[background=white]*this includes: Pistol: outside of barrel, inside bore, barrel hood, breech face, feed ramp, inside of slide, muzzle/bushing
AR-15 and similar rifles: entire surface of bolt, bolt carrier, cam pin, firing pin, inner walls of upper receiver, outside of muzzle device and inside receiver extension (buffer tube), buffer, and action spring. Anodized aluminum absorbs FireClean quickly but steel (bolt and carrier) takes longer and may require multiple coats. [/background]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white]Please see http://www.youtube.com/firecleanusa for demo videos and www.cleanergun.com or [email protected] for additional info. We welcome your feedback![/background][/font]
[font=lucida sans unicode'][background=white]+ + + +[/background][/font]
dennishoddy
Moderator
I'm going to get some of this and give it a try. I've got a volquartson muzzle brake on my Ruger mark III. It's so nasty inside that thing that an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green won't hardly touch it.
Scott Hearn
Well-Known Fanatic
I've got some coming. I just scored some Frog Lube too, I'm gonna try them both.
Iggie
Well-Known Fanatic
Let us know how they compare I have been looking at both. Just haven't bought either.
poopgiggle
B Class Nobody
IIRC you're a giant lubricant nerd so I look forward to an in-depth analysis.
I'm mostly interested in how this stuff handles lead fouling in comparison with Ballistol. Searching google for "'frog lube' 'lead fouling'" shows the same review by a guy called Patriotz that he's been submitting to every online store that sells Frog Lube, and people citing those reviews. I got all hot and bothered to get some until I realized that all the reviews are the same guy copypasta-ing.
Scott Hearn
Well-Known Fanatic
Yea, I kinda am. It started with different cutting fluids when I was a machinist, then went to oils and greases for the hot rods and bikes. Now it's guns. Tribology is kinda interesting.
You won't have to wait too long, I'm gonna test the Fireclean I got in the mail today
tomorrow with some lead bullet loads at the Arcadia match. Later I'm gonna do a write up on both.Edit: Just started "pre-treating" My S&W 625 revolver. It only had about 50 to 60 rounds through it, but this stuff does cut carbon real well from what I can tell. I just had some work done on this and picked it up from my gunsmith. I don't know what loads he ran through it but if I were guessing it would be clays and a lead bullet of some type. The cylinders and barrel cleaned right up, much faster that Ballistol would have. Showing some promise already.
aeropb
Well-Known Fanatic
I noticed on the application page it is written to use this product inside the bore. Does it remove powder fouling/glazed carbon from barrels or aid in the their removal?
As far as lead fouling, I'm not sure how many of you have 22LR AR uppers or Glock conversion kits but you may find these photos useful. The ammunition used was Federal "550" bulk pack like Walmart sells.
This is a CMMG 22LR bolt after 250 rounds, before it was wiped off.
This is an Advantage Arms 22LR Glock conversion, with 130 rounds fired. Notice how little fouling was on the retaining tab that keeps the barrel in the slide. This slide was put into use a couple of years before the invention of FIREClean, so there are going to be some wear marks.
This is a CMMG 22LR bolt after 250 rounds, before it was wiped off.
This is an Advantage Arms 22LR Glock conversion, with 130 rounds fired. Notice how little fouling was on the retaining tab that keeps the barrel in the slide. This slide was put into use a couple of years before the invention of FIREClean, so there are going to be some wear marks.
Scott Hearn
Well-Known Fanatic
Just chrono'd about 60 rounds today. I noticed that when I pulled the gun out of the gun rug at home it was wet around the outside of the forcing cone. Probably blew out from the interface of the barrel where it fits into the frame. All it took to clean this part was wiping with a dry patch and I had clean stainless steel. I was wondering if Fireclean would repel the lead buildup under the forcing cone that all revolvers get on the frame from the molten lead "splatter" that happens before the bullet has fully entered the barrel. The cylinder on a revolver is a pretty harsh envirnment for a bullet. Until the bullet makes it into the barrel it has some of those hot gasses blasting past it and doing that whole "cutting torch" thing on it. The burning powder gas blows it out of the barrel/cylinder gap all over everything. I can't state that it does prevent this buildup entirely, but it does seem to help some. I fired about 500 rounds of plain uncoated cast lead bullets in a couple of matches, load testing, etc. This area didn't grow a whole lot after cleaning and "treating" with Fireclean and cleanup was definitely easier than any other CLP lube I've used except for Frog Lube, and in comparison I'd call it very close to a draw between the two. I'm fairly certain that there is something to the carbon blocking properties they claim, but I'll also admit that my revolver probably isn't the best test bed. My gut tells me that on parkerized steel and anodized aluminum it's going to work pretty well if you keep at least some wet film on the surface as evidenced by what I saw on my forcing cone today. That's pretty hard to do on a stainless revolver but the porous anodic coating and park'd steel will keep the product there far longer, at least that's my theory. Now I've got to try it out on my ARs because curiosity is killing this cat...
jtischauser
I'm addicted to kicking ass
I have been soaking the elephant dung outta all my gun parts in FireClean as I do my end of season cleaning the last two weeks. After that stuff soaks in the guns are very slick. I'm digging this stuff.
Tactica
Well-Known Fanatic
At this point, I'm sold on the stuff. I've been telling the locals about it now. I think it's one of the best kept new secrets on the market for the sport.... but I'm biased, because I hate the cleaning process so anything that makes that easier, is a huge win for me. LOL 
benjamin-benjamin
snickerpuss
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2010
- Messages
- 2,907
have you used froglube?? how does it compare?
Scott Hearn
Well-Known Fanatic
From what I can tell so far they are pretty close to even, I like them both. The fireclean seems to be a more "conventional" lube in that it will remain somewhat wet. The froglube paste sort of drys until it heats up some. Like everything there are applications that one product is going to be better for than another.
bsdubois00
Head Honcho Emeritus
But aren't you a Rudy Salesman? Aren't you required to use Frog Lube?
jtischauser
I'm addicted to kicking ass
Does Frog lube sponsor Team Rudy now too? I wondered how come I was hearing so much hype about it.
I would use the tag line "Rudy Project Reject" but I would get confused with Ken.
I actually am sponsored by Shooters Source and BBI (neither sell FrogLube).
