Checkering

Dustin Cantrell · Jan 20, 2014

Thinking about getting rid of the factory waffle pattern on the frame of my CZ Tactical Sport and checkering the front and rear strap. Has anybody done checkering on a frame themselves by hand? Tips or thoughts?

dennishoddy · Jan 20, 2014

I know you can buy kits from Brownells. Looked at them one time when refurbishing a shotgun, but finally bought one that was already finished.

mike cyrwus · Jan 20, 2014

Ive actually done a few by hand. ok, more than a few, lol.

first thought is; what will the thickness be of the metal if the waffle stuff were removed? that will limit your ability to do it at all, and may limit whether you can do 20, 25, or 30 lpi

Dustin Cantrell · Jan 20, 2014

mike cyrwus said:
Ive actually done a few by hand. ok, more than a few, lol.

first thought is; what will the thickness be of the metal if the waffle stuff were removed? that will limit your ability to do it at all, and may limit whether you can do 20, 25, or 30 lpi

The waffle pattern is on top, not set into the frame if that make sense. I could remove the waffle pattern and the thickness of that portion of the frame would be no thinner than it is now in the valleys of the waffle pattern. I'm thinking 20 lpi. The front and rear strap seem to be as thick as the sides shown in the pictures. I don't really have a way of measuring the thickness.

mike cyrwus · Jan 21, 2014

taking the magwell off and looking up the mag opening would help get an idea on the thickness, even if you have to estimate. is it .140"? less, more?
i wonder if just knocking off the waflling enough to get some grip tape to stick wouldnt be a good idea

Dustin Cantrell · Jan 21, 2014

It's really hard to tell how thick it is where the waffling is. The sides of the frame where I can measure is .118". The middle of the front strap would be much thicker than that, but probably about the same at the corners. Checkering the front strap looks to be damn near impossible by hand because it flares out for the magwell. The rear strap might be a little hard too due to the complex shape. It's not straight and rounded like a 1911, it curves. I assume milling checkering into this frame would be pretty time consuming and expensive, correct?

This is an image from CZ Custom of a Tactical Sport that Angus did. I might just smooth it out and use grip tape like you suggested.

mike cyrwus · Jan 22, 2014

ANYTHING is possible if you do it by hand.

You probably couldnt get a machinist what would setup their mill for a oneoff machine checkering on that gun.

IF it were, mine, I probably would take some old punches and chisels to it and metal stipple it. That would depend on how the metal reacts to the disruption.

Dustin Cantrell · Mar 10, 2014

I finally got around to removing the waffling. I've been working on it a few nights. Started with files and have moved to emery cloth. Still have a ways to go. I'm undecided on whether or not to checker it. I have the files and a guide someone machined. I tried it on a piece of pipe and while I wasn't trying very hard the results were ugly! Will try again on the pipe this time a little more focused and see how I do. If I decide not to checker it I'll take Mike's first suggestion of grip tape after I have it refinished. This was my first use of Dykem. Works well.

It's been very time consuming just to remove the waffling. If one were to undercut the trigger guard a bit, what would be the best method to use?