AR-15 parts

Dayman

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Anyone have parts to help me complete my build let me know what ya got. All i have now is a stripped lower. Tools and tips would be great also. Thanks.
 
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Looks like I will have the rest of my lower parts this weekend to complete the lower half of my build. :D

Now on to the upper. Anyone have a source on 5.56/.223 barrels? Barrel suggestions. I was thinking 16". What barrel length before it has to be registed as an sbr?

Thanks for the help.
 
Ok googled under 16" is sbr, correct?
I have found local: 16" yhm chrome lined barrel 200$, yhm assembled upper 145$ Daniel defense BCG 190$
How are these prices? PSA any better I will be in 'cola in a few weeks
 
Dayman said:
Anyone have a source on 5.56/.223 barrels? Barrel suggestions. I was thinking 16". What barrel length before it has to be registed as an sbr?

16" or less if the flash hider is permanently attached and comes up to 16". But I'm guessing you won't be doing that on your first one.

Here's a barrel for $119
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/834998 ... c=wishList

Be forewarned, you will need a few tools for the upper: barrel nut wrench, torque wrench, upper vise block (and vise), grease, Loctite, punches, etc. Unless you are deadset on DIY and you're not thinking you will come out cheaper, look for a complete upper.

WATCH LOTS OF VIDEOS BEFORE YOU START!
 
I just finished my first upper a few months ago and used an ESS barrel. I have no issues or complaints with the barrel. Here is another decent priced barrel. I have never used them but I have heard its the same barrels Del-Ton uses.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx? ... roupid=573

I used this video below to guide me with the assembly.

http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/VideoLibrary

After buying the needed tools I didn't save any money building it myself but I take pride in it and next time I build one it will be cheaper.
 
Thanks for the replies wavering to build the upper or to purchas a complete and update with the furniture I want.
 
Normally I'd say uppers are super easy to build, assuming you get bolt and barrel from the same place (to get a headspaced pair). But if the quality control has slipped so much due to the panic rush, you might want someone else to deal with the fitment headaches.

I've got my upper apart right now to redo the free float tube. If you're interested I can show you the reassembly once I get some holes drilled in the FFT and a coat of rhinoliner on it.
 
rotarymike said:
Normally I'd say uppers are super easy to build, assuming you get bolt and barrel from the same place (to get a headspaced pair). But if the quality control has slipped so much due to the panic rush, you might want someone else to deal with the fitment headaches.

I've got my upper apart right now to redo the free float tube. If you're interested I can show you the reassembly once I get some holes drilled in the FFT and a coat of rhinoliner on it.

Thanks for the offer. My plan right now is to get a complete upper. I am going to be in Columbia in a few weeks and figured I would drop in PSA to see what they had available. I'm also going to be at Edsito later that week too so if no luck I can stop back by the beaufort store as a detour on the way home. Does it really make that big of a difference to free float the hand guard? I have seen videos of it being done but some times those are misleading.
 
Dayman said:
Does it really make that big of a difference to free float the hand guard? I have seen videos of it being done but some times those are misleading.

Depends on what you want to do with the gun. It does work; service match teams started using a FFT inside the stock rifle-length handguards a long time ago.

I use a sling to support shooting, and didn't want to put that sort of pressure on the barrel using the stock sling mount or a side-sling mount on the sight tower. Changing to a fft did improve my consistency shot-to-shot. However, it opens up other problems. F'rinstance, I'm not a huge fan of quadrails and I wanted to make the gun lighter, if possible, than the stock middy handguards. I also had a $100 limit. So I used a Hogue FFT. Those don't have any cooling holes or vents, so on longer strings the gun gets hot enough to FTE... so right now the tube is on my mill to get drilled or slotted for cooling, once I find some free time and my clamping kit.

If you just want a basic gun, the normal M4 handguards are great. If you want to shoot distance with some accuracy, you will probably want a tube sooner or later. If you want to stuff accessories on the gun, same deal. (for me, a defensive gun needs a light, but that's it. You can tacticool your gun all you want :) There are some very nice non-quadrail FFTs out there but they all seem to be $200-400. You can also get a nice carbon tube from DPMS and a few others for around $100 - only problem is that it's semi-permanent (hard to remove the barrel nut once the tube is epoxied to it). You can make a tool to work around it, but...
 
I used a Hogue free float on my first cabine and only regret was not getting one with vent holes cut in it. Other than that it was very comfortable. Barrel nut screwed on then the tube threaded onto the nut, tightened with a strap wrench. $50.00. Like Mike said, if you use the sling to support off-hand shooting, a FFT is best.
 
Probably didn't help that I covered it with an inner tube to make it grippier.

IMG_0242.JPG


I think after mine gets holed, it will get coated with bedliner. I'm not a fan of knurled aluminum or rails trying to grind through my wedding ring when I'm shooting.
 
I am leaning towards a defensive gun at this point. As i have my stag set up for hunting and longer ranges. Good info on free float, I think i may consider setting the stag up with a free float and moving my diamond head versa rail that came on the stag to this build.
 
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