Anyone Actually Clean Their Guns with WD-40?

[SlideStopper]

Not trying to start a war here—but I've heard guys swear by WD-40 for cleaning or protecting their guns, and others say it's the worst thing you can use.

I've got a buddy here in FL who uses it religiously on his 1911 and AR, and his stuff runs great. I've mostly stuck with CLP or Ballistol but gotta admit… that WD can feels tempting when I'm low on supplies.

So what's the real scoop—anyone here actually use WD-40 on their guns? Just curious what folks think. Horror stories? Success stories? I will not use it on my higher end stuff.

 

[Mike A]

WD = Water Displacing.
The Rocket Chemical Company invented WD-40 in 1953 (the company later changed its name to WD-40 Company). It originally used WD-40 to protect the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion, particularly the outer wall and the thin balloon fuel tanks. After a short time, people discovered that it had many other uses, and the company began marketing it to the public

The WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement, and the 40 stands for it being the 40th​ — and successful — version of the formula. Water displacement is moving fluid from one place to another, which helps protect metals and other surfaces from moisture that can cause rust and corrosion. WD-40 is also a penetrating oil, so it can cut through grease and grime to help loosen bolts and clean surfaces, while the light lubrication can help stop squeaks.

What I use to lube all Guns. Just a drop goes a long way in lubing hard working guns.

TRI-FLOW® SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE - Triflow Lubricants

triflowlubricants.com

PS: Since finding TF many many years ago in the Shop. I have not broken a single Exhaust stud or bolt as long as I
apply TF & leave for 24 hrs.

 

[Blackbeard]

WD = Water Displacing.
The Rocket Chemical Company invented WD-40 in 1953 (the company later changed its name to WD-40 Company). It originally used WD-40 to protect the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion, particularly the outer wall and the thin balloon fuel tanks. After a short time, people discovered that it had many other uses, and the company began marketing it to the public

The WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement, and the 40 stands for it being the 40th​ — and successful — version of the formula. Water displacement is moving fluid from one place to another, which helps protect metals and other surfaces from moisture that can cause rust and corrosion. WD-40 is also a penetrating oil, so it can cut through grease and grime to help loosen bolts and clean surfaces, while the light lubrication can help stop squeaks.

What I use to lube all Guns. Just a drop goes a long way in lubing hard working guns.

TRI-FLOW® SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE - Triflow Lubricants

triflowlubricants.com

PS: Since finding TF many many years ago in the Shop. I have not broken a single Exhaust stud or bolt as long as I
apply TF & leave for 24 hrs.

Exactly! @Mike A did a great job I think clearing this up.

I don't mess with WD-40 on guns. It's fine for freeing up rusty hinges or spraying on tools, but inside a 1911? Not for me. It tends to attract dirt and can get gummy over time, especially with the kind of southern humidity we get in the summer of NC.

I've bounced around a few products over the years. Hoppe's No. 9 is a classic and easy to find anywhere, even at Walmart. CLP is solid too—does the job and it's cheap. These days I mostly stick with Slip 2000 EWL. It's a little more expensive, but it runs cleaner and smoother for me.

I tried FrogLube a while back and wanted to like it. It's non-toxic, and all that, but it got weird and tacky after sitting in the safe during the summer. It might work better in cooler climates, but it didn't hold up down here.

If you're on a budget, CLP's probably your best bet. But I'd still keep WD-40 off anything that cycles.

 

[red442joe]

I have found WD-40 is the absolute best thing to clean grey plastic bins. Like Rubbermaid trash cans that get the black streaks and discoloration.
Used liberally WD-40 will get garbage cans sparkly clean.
Then you have a nice place to put the partial can of WD-40.

Joe

 

[KneeDeep]

Old Painless over at Box o' Truth once said you can use WD-40 on guns—as long as you scrub every last bit off afterward, or it'll turn into varnish and start gluing your internals together. He's gone now, but he had a lot of great info like that.

I've been wrenching on machines for over 40 years, and let me tell you—WD-40 is about as useful as spit for lubrication. If you like gummed-up parts and mystery sludge, it's perfect. Otherwise, there are about a dozen better options out there.

 

[Mike A]

Let me tell you about TF & guns. Much like any moving metal parts the surface smoothness is critical
Teflon is not a lubricant, it's a surface filler it fills the low spots & prevents friction & heat buildup.
When the surfaces are smooth any good oil will do a better job of protecting the parts.

At a WWII match in Polk Co July HOT summer, I chose my M1 & stripped the grease & used only TF.
That M1 shot the whole match & ran flawlessly. The small areas around the moving parts was dirty TF with carbon & grime.
TF keeps parts clean & lubed for the long haul.

 

[JMB4Life]

I've been using WD-40 on guns for years and haven't had a single issue worth talking about. People love to overthink this stuff—clean it, wipe it down, oil it right, and you'll be just fine. Half the time the guys trashing it are the ones chasing every trendy lube that shows up on YouTube.

I think the key is not letting it sit - you don't spray and forget about it, unless you're trying to loosen a bolt like @Mike A mentioned. I haven't tried that Tri stuff, but I'd be willing to bet it's good stuff, might be time to give it a spin.

 

[John Galt]

hard no

Try ""Dunk it"

 

[joepistol]

Well, as usual, I'm the contrarian... I use WD-40 in the cleaning process in all my firearms. Not solely, and not as a lube or for protection from oxidation.
After returning from a range outing, I disassemble my dirty pistols in ss trays I have for that purpose & spray the barrel, slide, & frame with a few squirts from a hand spray bottle. I then set them aside , to soak for awhile, often overnight. Do the same for revolvers, making sure to spray inside the cylinders & barrel.

The next step is I use an old toothbrush ( don't use your wife's ) and give a quick scrub to any built up residue on all parts. The WD does a great job of softening the residue. I use paper towels, napkins, pieces of a rag, etc to dry off the entire moistened surfaces of parts. Doing this, you'll find at least 95% of the firearm is clean, & looks like new..in my experience. I then use Ed's red ( or Hoppes #9 ) & q-tips to clean any remaining small areas of residue. A few passes with a bore brush, to make sure all build-up / residue is gone, & I'm ready for the next steps. Oil & lube, then reassembly.

I Clean semi auto rifles & bolt guns in a similar manner. Disassemble the bolts on my AR-10 & 15 uppers, let soak , brush, & wipe off residue as described.
I find WD is great at softening /dissolving carbon build -up & gunpowder residue,
I don't use aerosol cans of WD.. way too expensive. I buy a gallon can ( lasts years) and then pour it into a plastic hand pump / spray bottle.. Window cleaner bottles work great & last a long time.

Been using this cleaning system & have found my guns are clean & work reliably.
That I don't spend a bunch on other special cleaners is a bonus.

 

[Blackbeard]

When I used to work gun shows with my dad, my job was to put all the new pistols back in their boxes from being touched from folks etc. I used this like inkers brush filled with WD-40. if I didn't come back and wipe them down good enough they would get sloppy sticky...and I might have gotten yelled a good bit for it a few times cause when you're 14-15 you don't want to spend your entire weekend at a gun show.

It's one reason why I'm not into it as much, but yes, buying buy the gallon is much cheaper.

 

[HooDoo Man]

hard no

Try ""Dunk it"

Dunk It. Best thing since sliced bread. Only available from Cylinder & Slide company. Worth every penny. Last a long time.

 

[HooDoo Man]

I'll take Ballistol over WD any day. I gave away all my WD.

 

[CECannonJr]

Mike told me about Tri-flow. I ordered a bottle from Amazon and tried it. It has become what I reach for every time for my 1911's. The Lucas gun oil has a good reputation too, as all Lucas products seem to have. I use WD-40 for stuck bolts and squeaky hinges. That's it.

I thought of the Lucas products because I had a car with a power steering pump that was leaky and noisy. Someone told me to try the Lucas stop leak premium power steering fluid. That stuff was as thick as honey. I thought that stuff would never work. I tried it anyway since I had nothing to lose. It smoothed out and quieted that pump to better than new and it never leaked again. Good products. I purchased some of their gun oil, but I haven't tried it yet. I'll report back here when I do. I like that it comes in a needle bottle.

 

[CECannonJr]

I'll take Ballistol over WD any day. I gave away all my WD.

I like Ballistol too. I use it to wipe down and lube my reloading equipment. For some strange reason, I like the way it smells.

 

[John Galt]

Dunk it is the way to go if you do a lot of shooting w multiple guns

 

[dennishoddy]

In my younger and dumber days, used WD-40 for gun lube, but quickly found out that when used in semi-auto's in near or sub zero temperatures, it turns into a gummy substance.
Drifted around different lubes for years until getting into the competitive shooting world where reliability is the difference between a win or a loss. One stovepipe with the process to clear it, etc can make the difference between first and fifth place.
One of the things most of the top shooters in the world used was synthetic engine oil. The same stuff you trust to keep your engine running for a hundred thousand miles.
They may be sponsored by one of the gun lube companies, and tout the superior qualities, but privately use synthetic engine oil.
Stays fluid in the coldest weather and so on.

 

[Mike A]

Stays fluid in the coldest weather and so on.

Sure does.

TRI-FLOW®​ SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE
Tri-Flow®​ Superior Lubricant is the superior, light viscosity lube that allows for deep penetration into hard to reach moving parts. The drip bottle application, with a convenient straw, allows for deep penetration in hard to reach moving parts. High-grade petroleum oils provide optimum lubrication under extreme temperatures (-60 to 475°F) and humidity. Formulated solvents soften and remove dirt and contaminants, while special additives displace moisture and prevent rust and corrosion. Formulated with P.T.F.E.

 

[CECannonJr]

Sure does.

TRI-FLOW®​ SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE
Tri-Flow®​ Superior Lubricant is the superior, light viscosity lube that allows for deep penetration into hard to reach moving parts. The drip bottle application, with a convenient straw, allows for deep penetration in hard to reach moving parts. High-grade petroleum oils provide optimum lubrication under extreme temperatures (-60 to 475°F) and humidity. Formulated solvents soften and remove dirt and contaminants, while special additives displace moisture and prevent rust and corrosion. Formulated with P.T.F.E.

P.T.F.E. = The slickest substance known to man.

 

[HooDoo Man]

I've tried about all of the major gun oils, I believe. I have use FP-10 for my gun LUBE for years. I'm sticking to it.

 

[Mike A]

Anyone remember what we used back in the 60s & 70s?