Am I retarded?

taymoor

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I very frustrated with loading 5.56 right now. I bought an RCBS x-die and got a case hopelessly stuck inside of it. Not wanting to delay progress I went ahead and bought a regular full length die and had a decent run and just now got a case hopelessly stuck inside of it. I have tried tapping on the decapper pin to push the case out with zero luck. I am using a healthy layer of motor oil to lubricate them which has worked great on all but the two rounds I'm angrily typing about. Am I doing something wrong? Will RCBS fix the dies for me were I to send them in? Am I retarded? Also, if I use too much lube the cases start dimpling right at the widening part of the bottleneck, so I adapted to use a moderate amount of oil on the case wall.

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Sounds like the die is going too far into the case when you get to the bottom of the press. Just a thought. I have the same die set and havent had any problems with the cases getting stuck. I use case lube on mine.
 
Any particular trick to prevent this from happening? Perhaps screw the die in only enough that it doesn't come out of the bottom of the threaded insert on the press? IF that makes sense.
 
Motor oil?! GET SOME DILLON CASE LUBE, SON.

RCBS makes a stuck case removal kit, or you could probably send the dies in to them. Google stuck case removal or something and there's lots of methods to get it out.
 
I don't know anything about reloading but I always thought you were retarded Taymoor. FarmHouse? You got to be kidding me.
 
Case lube. The excess oil that dents the cases is likely causing your binding issue. You probably have a hydraulic lock between the case and the wall of the die. I'd try tapping the case head and using a setup like a shaft puller to remove the cases from the dies. And then I'd go buy some case lube and use it LIKE A BOSS.
 
Never had a case stuck. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=519525
 
Case lube. The excess oil that dents the cases is likely causing your binding issue. You probably have a hydraulic lock between the case and the wall of the die. I'd try tapping the case head and using a setup like a shaft puller to remove the cases from the dies. And then I'd go buy some case lube and use it LIKE A BOSS.

You are probably right. Yet another case where my niggardly spending habits nip me in the ass. IF RCBS fixes these I vow to only use case lube. I hate stuck cases.
 
Lots of folks in the shooting community have recommended going to Mobil 1 automotive oil.
If you compare specs with rem oil, you will understand why. Hi temps, and low temps.

Mobil 1 is totally synthetic. Oils like rem oil and wd40 will fail at high temps, as well as low temps.
We rabbit hunted after lubing the Ruger mark I's. first shot works great. Second is not going to load. Turns into gum. Go with the mobil and check the stats.
 
I dunno about reloading but when shooting rem oil burns off hella fast. Mobil 1 seams to stay on for the whole day.
 
I dunno about reloading but when shooting rem oil burns off hella fast. Mobil 1 seams to stay on for the whole day.
Now your in "the know".
Back in the day of dirt bike racing we really didn't know what would be the best 2 stroke oil to use for the race machines.

Raced at a place in Calif, where a vendor sold some 2 stroke oil called Blendsoll Gold.
Used it, in my bike for three years, while using another 2 stroke oil in the sons bike.
the Blendsoll oil guy had a shaft on a stand. Coated it with the blendsoll, and put a cutting torch on the center. The oil ran to the the fire/heat.
All of the other oils ran away from the heat during the test. I ran that oil for 5 years and never had to re-ring the race bike.

I hated to bore you all with this story, but the gist of it is to make sure that you use the right oil/lube on your guns. Some are good, some are not. I'd go with the synthetic as its designed for high heat, and low heat as well.
 
I'm using castrol synthetic now. I'm thinking of just getting a set of dillon dies if they break after rcbs fixes them and I switch lubes.
 
I'm thinking any synthetic will work in this day and time.
Specs don't lie.
Back in the day, getting the Ruger Mark I, we hunted rabbits with beagles.
Really fun until it got into the 0 degree temps up to 20 degrees. We lubed with WD-40 one time. Get off one shot with the round in the chamber, and then the slide would SLOWLY make its way back to lock-up. At zero temps, we quit using any lube at all.
Now, I'd go a really light lube of synthetic.
 
Buy the RCBS stuck case removal kit and pull them out. Pounding on the decap pin is only going to screw it up too.

A lot of reloaders are cheap, you can make your own Dillon knockoff lube with liquid lanolin and any reasonably high proof alcohol.

Mobil 1 5W-30 is a great gun lube, and since my truck only uses 4.5 quarts I always have plenty on hand.
 
Buy the RCBS stuck case removal kit and pull them out. Pounding on the decap pin is only going to screw it up too.A lot of reloaders are cheap, you can make your own Dillon knockoff lube with liquid lanolin and any reasonably high proof alcohol.Mobil 1 5W-30 is a great gun lube, and since my truck only uses 4.5 quarts I always have plenty on hand.

if you do pound them out with the decap pin and bend it.. you can take it to the reloading counter at h+h and the will hand you a new one. at least they did last time i jacked one up
 
Never had a case stuck. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=519525

i use hornadys version of this... works very well.... smells bad tho!

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=198318
 
For reloading I've used RCBS case lube and pad and in 20 years of reloading .270 to .223 and pistol bullets, I've never had a stuck case. I even lube pistol cases when using carbide dies, just seems to make 'em go smoother. You don't want too much lube as you've already seen, it will dimple the case shoulder.

There are several stuck case kits and Mr. Potterfield at Midway has a short video on how to extract a stuck case.
 
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