1911 barrel link question

KurtM

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I recently was told that the height of the link would change where the disconnect relief cut would sit in relation to the disconnect. So I thought I would give it a try on 3 of my single stack 1911s. The 3 I chose have the frame and slide absolutely flush when in lock u. This tells me the relief cut is in one exact place at lock up with that link hight. So i first removed the links from the 3 guns and then reassembled them and with some wiggling and jiggling got them to lock up and wonder of wonders the frame/slide were exactly flush just like before, wich means the relief cut was in the same exact place. Now I thought that was strange so i then got out a bunch of links of various lengths and found that the guns would always return to flush, no matter what, as long as the link wasn't too long. When the link got too long the guns couldn't even be forced into battery. It seems that the lower locking lugs hit the slide stop and the hood or shoulder of the barrel hits the slid, and that this is the only determining thing as to wether the slid/frame is flush and therefore the only thing that makes the relief cut sits. Its completely independent of link height . The question is what am I doing wrong as I would sure love to adjust where the cut out for the disconnect sits with a simple link change. Do I have the wrong kind of links?
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

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Strange as you increase link size it moves the slide stop cross pin
further away fo the lugs, kinda like how a factory barrel is over cut for a .278 link. Boy kurt guess they thought you some real magic at cylinder and slide
 

Wall

El Diablo
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Strange as you increase link size it moves the slide stop cross pin
further away fo the lugs, kinda like how a factory barrel is over cut for a .278 link. Boy kurt guess they thought you some real magic at cylinder and slide
wouldn't the longer link just allow the barrel to sit higher in the slide/lugs?
Shouldn't the VIS keep the Barrel & slide from traveling farther back when a longer link is installed?
I'm not a gunsmith, I'm just asking.
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

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If uhave a zero fit between the hood and the locking lugs most factory guns are over .010,
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

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I will give a better answer form my home pc, its taking forever off my cell phone
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

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The funny thing is hes not looking at the right area
 

KurtM

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"When I start to look at a trigger, the position of the slide disconnect recess is directly related to the link size in the barrel"


"as you increase link size it moves the slide stop cross pin
further away fo the lugs"

I am still missing something. Isn't the slide stop pin drilled into a very specific place on the frame? I really don't think that the link can move it at all, maybe bend it, but it is fairly immobile. Now I sure can see that the BARREL moves up and away from the slide stop pin with longer links, but that is vertical motion of the barrel and very minimally the slide by a couple of thousandths at most even in a gun which is rediculessly over linked again vertical movement...if any.

Now the lower lugs have these little feety looking things, but they are considered to be part of the lower lugs so I use the term lower lugs, and those seem to hit the slide stop pin and since they seem to be firmly attached to the barrel, when the feety things hit the pin, the forward motion of the slide is stopped by the shoulder of the barrel, or the hood if it is well fit. Now here is the part where I am just missing something...the disconnect relief cut is on the bottom of the slide and the disconnector sticks up out of the frame and they only meet at a very certain spot and to change this relationship would requier a change in the horizontal plain, not the vertical, and in my limited testing at no time did the link height change the horizonrtal relationship no matter how short or tall or not at all for the link. It was either in battery or it was not and at no time did the frame and slide change from flush on all 3 guns as long as it would close, which I am pretty sure ment that the disconnector relief cut didn't move at all in relation to the disconnector at all, so when I read the above quote I still feel that I am missing something...and that something is how does the lenght of the link change where the diconnect recess is located? so I am still wondering how the barrel link can change or effect the trigger pull weight, or does it take a special link?
 

poopgiggle

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Let's all play nice

Let's have more 1911geek posts and less rustling of jimmies.

eamGE.gif
 

Wall

El Diablo
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As I stated in my previous post, I'm no gunsmith.
That said, I too find it difficult to understand how the barrel link plays into the trigger weight.
The slide would have to move a pretty considerable distance to have any effect on the disconnect & I just don't see how that could happen by changing the barrel link.
 

poopgiggle

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Just to be clear, that post was agreeing with you and not arguing with you.

Also it was an excuse to post rustling-jimmies-lawnmower.gif
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

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Ok starting form the frame hole, or cross pin hole.

This on your print will be the intersection line of the whole pistol maked as x and y axises. The slide stop hole is normal around .203, the cross pins vary, I have seen them as low as .194 and as high as .201, .201. so from the get go you will have about .003 varance between the upper locking lug location vertical and slide stop cross pin, as the pin will sit at the bottom of the hole.

Now the link is fixed, it doesnt change in size as it cams from lock to un-lock, if start with a swing of .278 you finish with one, unless the locking lugs are contacting before it can make a complete movment.

In a factory barrel 9 times out of ten the slide stop contact to the barrel feet is zero while in full lock. what you will see sometimes is an "accuracy link" which is nothing more than a number 4 link, which push the barrel up higer a further into lock.

The hood on a factory barrel is over cut, all of the barrel dim's are, so they can slap a barrel in and move to the next assembler. the next point of slop, some call run-on, or the amount of room the barrel has to move forward until making contact with slide locking lug face. this is way in a match fit barrel the slide hangs of the back of the frame, as all these little .001 and .002 are taken up.

when you check the link size it tells you where the recess is sitting in relation to the factory .278 cam timing. if a differnet size link is present its further back or forward. granted this not much, but when you remove the grip safety and look at the disco's leg contact to the sear legs you can see how high the disconnect is sitting in the notch. rather than chase it, I look at the barrel link to get an idea of where I need to start.

Now this assuming everything else is correct, if the slide recess is at max or min, you need to figure that in as well, if the disconnect is too short or long you need to figure than in.

The point is you dont want a hair of disco holding the trigger connected to sear, because you run the risk of full auto fire.

as far as it playing a part in the weight, if the disconnect is rubbing in the recess cut, that is friction, the object of a trigger job is to remove friction, and then play with the spring pressures, not just bend stuff.


edited: also the location of the frame deck and slide stop pin forward and aft play apart in this as well.
 

Wall

El Diablo
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Just to be clear, that post was agreeing with you and not arguing with you.

Also it was an excuse to post rustling-jimmies-lawnmower.gif
yeah, I knew that.

I'm just interested in an explanation of the relationship the link has because I'm not understanding it.
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

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at least you know how to make me smile poop, if i had a flying lawn mower I would quit gun! :)
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

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now if you would like I can explain how the longer link effects the little feety things as you put it.
 
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DurningDefenseCustoms

Guest
stop it now I am laughing, I am suppose to be upset remember.
 

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