1911 barrel hood slop

terdog

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Recently I've had 2 1911's (Tisas Yukon & Kimber Kds9c) develop slop, or looseness/play in the hood of the barrel.

Whats the cause?
Whats the fix?
 
The Tisas has less than 100 rounds through it before it developed slop. The Kimber had about 250 rounds through it and just got returned from warranty work. The issues stated were Barrel slop and material being removed from the barrel causing burrs on the feet. Difficult to show pictures of barrel swap. A video would be more appropriate. The Tisas is a $500 gun. But the Kimber retails for 1600. I expect higher quality for higher cost, but Kimber is refusing to do anymore claiming that they replace the barrel and that's all they're going to do.
 
I have a different Kimber 1911 with zero issues. Too bad they won't do anything for you. I will remember that if I am ever in the market for another 1911. I would spread the word far and wide if I were you.
 
My 1st thought is the barrel link is too short, allowing the barrel up & down movement.
Did you remove the barrel & check the link ? has s it stretched to "oblong" instead if round ? does the link have any vertical movement ?
I'd also look @ the slide stop, for wear?
also curious about barrel lugs, top& bottom. remove barrel & check/ compare against another ?
 
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a search revealed this :
Barrel slop in a 1911 pistol, when in battery (fully closed and ready to fire), can be caused by a few factors, primarily related to barrel fit or wear. The most common culprit is an incorrect fit of the barrel to the slide and frame, where the barrel doesn't lock securely with the slide. Additionally, wear and tear on the locking lugs of the barrel can lead to movement in battery.

Here's a more detailed look at the potential causes:

1. Incorrect Barrel Fit:
  • Poor Engagement:
    A barrel that isn't properly fitted to the slide will have more play in the locking mechanism, allowing it to move up and down or side to side in battery.
  • Loose Lugs:
    The locking lugs on the barrel need to engage with the slide lugs to lock the barrel in place. If these lugs are too loose, they won't provide a tight, secure fit, leading to movement.

  • 2. Wear and Tear:
  • Lug Wear:
    Over time, the locking lugs on the barrel and the corresponding recesses in the slide can wear, reducing their ability to lock tightly.
  • Barrel Wear:
    The barrel itself can wear, particularly around the locking lugs, leading to a less precise fit.
3. Other Potential Issues:
  • Damaged Slide Rails:
    In some cases, wear or damage to the slide rails can allow the slide to move more freely, indirectly affecting barrel movement in battery.
  • Incorrectly Installed Parts:
    A misaligned or improperly installed barrel link can also contribute to slop.

In summary: Barrel slop in battery is primarily caused by a poor fit or wear of the barrel and slide's
 
The firing pin hole is not round but oblong, and Kimber says that's by Design irregardless of how rough it looks. The barrel seems to be contacting the side of the slide causing damage. Kimber says that's within spec. You can see rough Machining marks on the ejection Port of the slide. Kimber customer service also states that is within spec. And you can see on the frame where it was roughly machined as well.
 

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I was able to track down the email for the COO of Kimber. Send him these pictures and a short description. Within an hour he sent me another email apologizing for it and saying that customer service would be in touch. It took 3 days Brittany to call me after that. She said that they would send me a new slide and barrel. She refused to do anything about the frame. That was a week and a half ago and she sent me this very kurt email.
I thought people from the South were supposed to be nice and respectful. She obviously didn't get the memo about how to treat a customer.
 

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a search revealed this :
Barrel slop in a 1911 pistol, when in battery (fully closed and ready to fire), can be caused by a few factors, primarily related to barrel fit or wear. The most common culprit is an incorrect fit of the barrel to the slide and frame, where the barrel doesn't lock securely with the slide. Additionally, wear and tear on the locking lugs
of the barrel can lead to movement in battery.
Thanks.
I guess I can let the Tisas slide considering its a $500 pistol although I don't feel $500 is chump change in my world. The Kimber however is a different story. Between my wife and myself we currently own three kimbers and now this Kds9c.
I will never buy another Kimber.
 
I will say I've been truly disappointed in my Tisas dbl. stack 9mm Cmdr.. shoots so low even @ 7 yds. :mad:
Never had a pistol do that before
I've heard their customer service Isn't too bad, have you contacted them re: this? Both of my Tank Commander's shoot really well. I did inquire about having my sights changed to black on my Nickeled one, and was told they don't do that. I did not talk directly to customer service I don't think, so maybe thats why. When I did shoot it it shot very well, nickceled sights and all. My EDC is a nickel Smith 36 nickel sight and all. Being old, I can see the silver sight a bit better than plain black.
 
All Tisas will do is use the exact same parts as came stock. You can BUY parts from them. But in my experience with Tisas, your better off buying quality aftermarket parts.
My YUKON had a sloppy barrel bushing fit. I bought a replacement from Fusion. 100% better fit, and MUCH better groups.
 
All Tisas will do is use the exact same parts as came stock. You can BUY parts from them. But in my experience with Tisas, your better off buying quality aftermarket parts.
My YUKON had a sloppy barrel bushing fit. I bought a replacement from Fusion. 100% better fit, and MUCH better groups.
I must be fortunate so far every thing is good with my Tisas' Haven't shot them much, but as I said they both work fine. I'll remember what you said about new bushing if I need one. Thank's
 
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