Remington Rand 1911A1

imacgyver

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Buddy of mine inherited a Remington Rand 1911 -I'm not sure which year it was made, but it is a WWII GI Issue. Visually it looks fine, springs and action are fine. Muzzle, Bore and Barrel look ok, however he has not cleaned the bore. He did clean and lube the side and other parts. The magazines are in bad shape, the feeds rock from the front to back easily and leave a gap at the slide lock that is noticeable. Hammer, pin and safety are in good condition. Outside of the mags, I think it will shoot fine.

1. Is it safe to shoot?
2. Is it too valuable to shoot or clean?
3. Should he replace any parts before shooting, maybe magazines too?
 
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Probably perfectly fine to shoot as long as the bore is clean.
Depending on whether all parts are correct or not determines the value.
Do not change any parts unless you have someone that is knowledgable in
Rem. Rands to advise you on where to get the proper parts.
While a 1911 part is a 1911 part and all will interchange, putting a 2011
part on a 1942 gun will hurt the value.
Some parts, especially magazines can be very valuable
(you could trade off a $100 mag for a $10 one and never know it)
Do Not refinish, steel wool, wire wheel, or use rust remover as
this will lower the value greatly. It is better off with a rusty brown finish
than to be "cleaned". Just oil it and wipe with rag only.

Are the mags two tone color? top half one color, bottom half another?
if so those are NOT $10 mags
 
He has three magazines, metal feeds - no loops on the base - two are an older darker metallic color, and one is a shiny chrome/nickel finish.

Only scrubbing is with a nylon brush inside the slide to clean the tracks from any debris and allow for a smooth slide motion. Will need to clean the bore and probably soak it for at least 4 hours with no.9. other than that, light oil/lube and it is in great shape!
 
it should be checked out by someone knowledgable.
ie gunsmith well versed in 1911 operation.
 
That's the shop my buddies from OUPD recommended to me. Hi Mike - don't know if you remember me, but a year ago I had inquired about your FFL. My friend Dan seems to know you as well.
 
Those old war guns are fine to shoot, they do love oil so don't shoot it dry.

As far as being loose? Well thats just the name of the game for that vintage gun.

As far as accuracy? I know you didn't ask about that one but don't expect too much because the barrels were not match grade by any point of the imagination so it may be very accurate or it may shoot 20 inches off center at 25 yards. especially if it has ever been dropped, put away without cleaning, or shot over half a million rounds. but hey how many WWII guns ever had any of those issues right?

If he does decide to replace any pieces to make it a modern shooter that is fully acceptable but do not loose the old parts or allow any permanent changes other than maintenance issues or the value could be an issue.

You said it looks fine so I assume no rust so conservation is fine but restoration is not recommended.

Donald






Famous last words:
"I'm an expert at that! I did it once and know everything about it"
 
Those old war guns are fine to shoot, they do love oil so don't shoot it dry.

As far as being loose? Well thats just the name of the game for that vintage gun.

As far as accuracy? I know you didn't ask about that one but don't expect too much because the barrels were not match grade by any point of the imagination so it may be very accurate or it may shoot 20 inches off center at 25 yards. especially if it has ever been dropped, put away without cleaning, or shot over half a million rounds. but hey how many WWII guns ever had any of those issues right?

If he does decide to replace any pieces to make it a modern shooter that is fully acceptable but do not loose the old parts or allow any permanent changes other than maintenance issues or the value could be an issue.

You said it looks fine so I assume no rust so conservation is fine but restoration is not recommended.

Donald





Famous last words:
"I'm an expert at that! I did it once and know everything about it"
Having run a few GI surplus 1911's... some will shoot 4 inches at 25 yards..others... you will be lucky to get 7 hits on a 4x8 sheet of plywood at the same distance. The one I had was a plywood killer --- then I found a tight GI bushing and re fitted it and the link pin (it was worn loose too) and things tightened up very well. Keep in mind- unless that pistol snuck home in a duffel bag about 1945... it probably got an aresenal rebuild between WWII and Korea and again in the 60's.

I'd like to see some pics. Sounds like you have a nice GI 1911. good luck
 
Thank you guys! I really appreciate it. I'll see if I can get some High Quality Pics and post them. It is a beautiful piece of history as well. We also found an Iver Johnson .38 that is very old - not sure how old- but would not shoot based on the condition and a 1952 Winchester Model 94 .30-30 that I can't wait to take out to the range. Some of the screws may be seized - didn't want to risk stripping, when trying to disassemble and inspect the tubular magazine.
 
Thank you guys! I really appreciate it. I'll see if I can get some High Quality Pics and post them. It is a beautiful piece of history as well. We also found an Iver Johnson .38 that is very old - not sure how old- but would not shoot based on the condition and a 1952 Winchester Model 94 .30-30 that I can't wait to take out to the range. Some of the screws may be seized - didn't want to risk stripping, when trying to disassemble and inspect the tubular magazine.

I mess with a lot of Winchester levers. If yours is like most....99% of the cleaning you need to do can be acomplished with the action open.
Solvent, q tips rags... Maybe a dental pick and your in business.
If you can load it....and it feed the mag tube is good. Rust and crud can hold the follower up.
There is a good photo essay about 94 disassembly --- let me find the link.
You do need a good set of hollow ground 'drivers to get any gun apart without buggering up the screws.
 
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