Where do you zero your AR

Mitch Rapp

Mitch Rapp

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Joined
Jan 16, 2011
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Tulsa area
Was trying to decide how to zero my DMS-1. I had planned on just zeroing for 100, and then just having my drop charts memorized, however after a discussion with a buddy who is in the Army I am pondering doing it a different way. Talking to him (Shifty from OSA and the best natural shot I have ever seen, all the guys in his company think he is a freak) when they zero their M4's they do it for 25 meters, and then it is back to zero at 300. Niether one of us like that idea (he doesn't get a choice), but it does intrigue me. So what do yall do?
Maybe I am overthinking this........
 
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A 200 yd. zero is good all around. +/- 2.5 inches from the muzzle out to 220 or so.

Holds can get a little trickier at 400 and 500 but if you know your holds it ain't that bad! Come play long guns with us at USSA Sunday.
 
Chambers said:
A 200 yd. zero is good all around. +/- 2.5 inches from the muzzle out to 220 or so.

Holds can get a little trickier at 400 and 500 but if you know your holds it ain't that bad! Come play long guns with us at USSA Sunday.
Click to expand...


Sunday is church, but 200 does sound good.
 
I use 50/250 for my coyote AR15 and 40/300 for my competition AR15. I wouldn't believe the 25/300 or 50/200 "rule" without actually trying it. Especially with a scope. The height of the optic over the bore will change these numbers as will ammo, twist, barrel length ect. I'm no expert so I can't say which factor will change the numbers the most.
With my setup and ammo, a 25/400 is more likely. I've tested the 50/250 and 40/300, haven't tried the 25/400 so I can't say if that's exactly right or not.
 
Yeah. You gotta find out on the range.

If you use a ballistic calc having the correct velocity and sight height seem to be the most important (and easiest to screw up).

My 20" bbl is more like 50/230 with most .223.
 
I zero law enforcement guns at 50 yards.

basically hitting scoring rings, not cutting holes so the +/- thing isn't a big deal..
 
Chambers said:
Yeah. You gotta find out on the range.

If you use a ballistic calc having the correct velocity and sight height seem to be the most important (and easiest to screw up).

My 20" bbl is more like 50/230 with most .223.
Click to expand...

Mine is too really. 50/250 is still "close enough" on a coyote.
 
Wormydog1724 said:
I use 50/250 for my coyote AR15 and 40/300 for my competition AR15. I wouldn't believe the 25/300 or 50/200 "rule" without actually trying it. Especially with a scope. The height of the optic over the bore will change these numbers as will ammo, twist, barrel length ect. I'm no expert so I can't say which factor will change the numbers the most.
With my setup and ammo, a 25/400 is more likely. I've tested the 50/250 and 40/300, haven't tried the 25/400 so I can't say if that's exactly right or not.
Click to expand...

25/300 is iron sights 98% of the time - whether m16a2 or m4 it's 25 Meters on a simulated 300 meter target. with a scope it is completely different. But figure if you are shooting say a 1:7 twist 20 inch barrel with fairly consistent ammo 25/300 when done properly is at least good enough for minute of bad guy if you do your part.
 
My primary zero is at 300. I don't zero at 25 or 50 then assume its on at the longer ranges. I get the long zero then work in/out to verify the ballistic calculators data. the beauty of a 300 yard zero in our local 3 gun game is that its almost dead on for those 25-35 yard clay shots in the bays.

I also know how many clicks on my optic, 6, it takes to move to my 200 yard zero. I also know how many clicks, 9, it takes to get me to my 100 yard zero. If I have a stage that has nothing but 100 yard or 200 yard targets I dial to that particular zero so I don't have to think about hold over/unders. If there are multiple targets at various ranges. I choose the zero that I am most comfortable with.

This method is not for everyone as it is easy to forget what zero you are running and get all jacked up. It is also easy to forget to go back to your primary zero at the end of a stage.
 
9125lr1.gif

when I was in the army we used this target now that almost everyone uses an optic of some kind I don't know what they are using now.
 
Jesse and I spent a whole day one weekend charting our hits (with optics) at about every distance with both 200 and 300 yard zeros. I personally like a 200 yard zero for most all 3 gun stages with an optic, because there is so little variance out to 220 yards or so that you just need to be somewhere on the middle of the target with your sight picture and you are good. I then hold the top of plates etc (about 8 inches up) on 300 yard shots. For me that is faster because there is less to remember on the shorter stuff.

I did keep very specific notes about my 300 yard zero, and have dialed it up on especially long stages at the major matches with good success. But that can be alot to remember. In my opinion the process of learning where you gun is at most every distance is a VERY effective practice for 2 reasons. One, you obviously want to know that information before you shoot at targets at those distances (including very short shots) so you can hit what you are aiming at. And two, the confidence that comes with absolutely KNOWING what your bullet is doing makes you a better shooter, especially under pressure. For me the best feeling in the world is breaking a shot on a longer target, and leaving to acquire the next target BEFORE the RO is able to call a hit on it.
 
Jesse, have you ever thought about different colored paints for your different settings of zero. Just score the knob about a 1/4 long in each of stops and color it in like you would do on an AR's stampings. It could keep the confusion down.
 
steak said:
Jesse, have you ever thought about different colored paints for your different settings of zero. Just score the knob about a 1/4 long in each of stops and color it in like you would do on an AR's stampings. It could keep the confusion down.
Click to expand...

I use a Swarovski so the the turrets are tiny and crappy IMO. Its only 2 positions 6 clicks and 9 clicks so it's not hard to remember it's just hard to remember that you changed from 300 to 100 in the excitement of a match.
 
I zeroed mine at 30 yards, in ignorance of what to expect while multi-gun competing, and according to Hoyle here it turns out to be a pretty good choice. I suppose it's time to take it out and shoot some outdoor (longer range) targets and get an idea what I'm really going to have to do in the way of hold-over. Also, this site is totally awesome. It just keeps getting better.
 
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