Caring for a Parkerized finish

Frost

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I am posting this because I was asked an obvious question today.
It was one of those that make you think, ?You mean everyone doesn?t know this??
A younger guy where I worked was complaining to anyone who would listen that his Parkerized pistol had rusted.
He was saying the finish was crap and he would never own another Parkerized firearm.
Not only did it rust, there?s a problem with dark spots on the finish when wiping it off.
When he said that I knew what the problem was.

I told him Parkerizing has been around longer than even me, works really well and that his problem was operator error.
He never seasoned the Parkerizing and was not caring for it properly.
He thought Parkerizing was supposed to be a dry finish because that is how it came out of the box.
Consequently he was giving it a quick wipe like you would a blued finish.
This is not enough oil for a Parkerized finish.
Parkerizing provides some inherent protection but what really makes it work is its porosity.
It holds oil really well and that is what really keeps the metal from rusting.
If you do not have the pores filled with oil they can and will fill with sweat and skin acids.

A new gun or a newly done Parkerizing job should be seasoned by saturating it with your favorite gun oil.
I mean really put the oil to it, there should be liquid oil sitting on the surface.
Let this sit for a half an hour or so, if there is still oil on the surface lightly wipe it off.
If it has all been absorbed apply more.
You will need to field strip most firearms so as to get at all the surfaces.

This will work best when the gun and oil are warm.
You don?t need to put it in the oven but don?t do it in an unheated shop during the winter.
The oil will be thinner and the pores will be more open so you will get better absorption.
After seasoning you should re-oil the finish after each cleaning.
The solvents you use to clean the bore will remove the oil.
Use an oily rag or some oil on your paw and apply enough oil to see.
Let it sit a bit then wipe it dry and you are good to go.

The reason Parkerizing works so well for the military is new Parkerized weapons are packed in Cosmoline which is basically a brown waxy grease.
The Cosmoline finds it?s way into the pores of the Parkerizing seasoning it and sometimes giving it a greenish patina.
If you use strong degreasers to remove Cosmoline from a surplus gun don?t forget to
season the finish.


Remember, Parkerizing is a thirsty finish, while you don?t want oil dripping off it without enough oil it will rust.
 
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+1 When I parkerize I warm up the parts with my heat gun and saturate it with 30w oil. Small parts I drop in a container of oil. Barrels and receivers I wrap in oil rags then let everything absorb oil overnight. Warming the parts with a heat gun also removes any moisture left in the finish. The next day I wipe everything down and assemble. I've used different viscosity oils and found 30w oil to work the best. If left on long enough it will completely saturate the finish. I've never had any problems seasoning this way.
 
Great Post....I know a lot of people that had no idea about this....

I use Rem oil...Have for years...spray it on...let it set...wipe excess off...it works.

Steve
 
Thanks Frost. I didn't realize that the parkerizing was so porous. I've always kept mine oiled but never seasoned them in that manner. Explains why some finishes look so splotchy. Great post.
Dave
 
Just passed this on to someone I know who was about to buy a used Colt Combat Commander...

he isn't the brightest pertaining to care of some things and I figured to spare his soon to be new piece some agony. Great info Frost, everyone keep passing valuable tips like this along ok? ;)
 
I did not know that and I have owned parkerized guns. Lucky for me I use lots of oil when I clean my guns. Learn something new every day. Thanks for the post.
 
Great Post!! Did not know this about Parkerized firearms.
Thanks for the post Frost.
 
I decided this needed to be a bit more formal.
Suggestions ?
Criticisms?

Parkerizing: Proper Care and Maintenance

Today, I was asked a question that reminded me how important it is to ensure basic knowledge is shared with new trainees. A colleague, frustrated by rust on his Parkerized pistol, claimed the finish was inferior and vowed never to purchase another Parkerized firearm. Additionally, he complained of dark spots appearing when wiping the gun down. His frustration highlighted a common misunderstanding about Parkerizing and its care.

Understanding Parkerizing

Parkerizing, a time-tested firearm finish, offers excellent protection when properly maintained. However, it is not a "dry" finish and requires specific care. Its effectiveness lies in its porous nature, which allows it to retain oil. Without adequate oil, the pores can absorb sweat and skin acids, leading to rust.

Properly Seasoning a Parkerized Finish

To maximize the durability and corrosion resistance of a Parkerized firearm, follow these steps:

  1. Initial Seasoning:
    • Saturate the Parkerized surface with a high-quality gun oil. Apply generously until there is visible oil pooling on the surface.
    • Allow the oil to sit for 30 minutes.
    • If any oil remains on the surface after this time, gently wipe it off. If the surface appears dry, reapply oil and repeat the process.
  2. Field Stripping:
    • Disassemble the firearm to expose all Parkerized surfaces. This ensures comprehensive oil coverage.
  3. Temperature Considerations:
    • Perform the seasoning process in a warm environment. Warm metal and oil promote better absorption. Avoid working in unheated areas during cold weather.

Ongoing Maintenance

  • After each cleaning, reapply a light coat of oil to the Parkerized finish. Cleaning solvents often strip the protective oil layer.
  • Use an oily rag or lightly oil your hands and rub the surface. Let the oil sit briefly before wiping off any excess.

The Role of Cosmoline in Military Applications

Military Parkerized firearms are typically packed in Cosmoline, a waxy grease that deeply penetrates the pores, effectively seasoning the finish. If you remove Cosmoline from a surplus firearm using strong degreasers, remember to re-season the finish immediately to prevent rust.

Key Takeaway

Parkerizing is a "thirsty" finish that relies on oil to prevent rust. While over-oiling can be messy, insufficient oiling compromises the finish's protective qualities. Proper care will ensure your firearm remains in top condition for years to come.


*Footnote: Parkerizing, also known as phosphating, is a chemical process used to create a durable, corrosion-resistant coating on ferrous metals. The process involves the application of a phosphate salt solution, typically manganese, zinc, or iron phosphate, in combination with an acid. When a firearm or metal component is immersed in the solution, a chemical reaction occurs, resulting in the formation of a crystalline phosphate layer that adheres to the surface of the metal. This layer provides a matte, non-reflective finish and enhances the metal's resistance to wear and corrosion.

The Parkerizing process typically involves several steps:

  1. Cleaning and Degreasing: The metal surface must be thoroughly cleaned to remove all traces of oil, grease, and dirt, often using an alkaline cleaner or solvent.
  2. Surface Preparation: The cleaned metal is then etched, often with a mild acid, to remove any surface oxidation and improve adhesion of the phosphate coating.
  3. Phosphate Coating Application: The metal is submerged in a heated phosphate solution (usually between 190°F and 210°F) for a specific duration, typically 10-30 minutes, depending on the desired finish and thickness.
  4. Rinsing and Drying: After coating, the part is rinsed in water to remove any residual chemicals and then dried.
  5. Oil Application: Once dry, the porous phosphate layer is saturated with oil to enhance its protective properties and prevent rust.
Parkerizing is widely used in military and industrial applications due to its cost-effectiveness and ability to improve the longevity of metal components under harsh conditions. Proper maintenance, including regular oiling, is crucial to preserving the integrity of the finish.*
 
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I use an old shaving brush (remember those?), soak it in oil, then brush everything I see, excepting the grips, of course. I first started that when LSA was still a thing in the Army. None of my stuff ever rusted doing that. Re-apply your oil of choice whenever you can. Sop it down good. Wipe off the excess and get on with your life.
 
I use an old shaving brush (remember those?), soak it in oil, then brush everything I see, excepting the grips, of course. I first started that when LSA was still a thing in the Army. None of my stuff ever rusted doing that. Re-apply your oil of choice whenever you can. Sop it down good. Wipe off the excess and get on with your life.
In answer to your shaving brush question...yes I certianly do remember those. Are we old or what? LOL
 
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