Changing trigger pull on a 1911
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Matt1911
Cyrwus Jr.
I replaced my fire controls with a Cylinder & Slide 4lb kit and the smoothness of the trigger pull now alone makes a world of difference.
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=1911DI
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=1911DI
technetium-99m
Mighty Righty
Its a combination of parts fitting and sear spring tension, the mainspring does play a role in 1911 trigger weight but its contribution is small compared to how your parts work together. If you want to jump into it you need appropriate tools which can be purchased from Brownells, and knowledge, which you can gain from books, videos, and the internet.
If you just want to do 1 or 2 you can buy a C&S or an Extreme Engineering kit. You will still have to check for safety but the parts will be good to go.
If you just want to do 1 or 2 you can buy a C&S or an Extreme Engineering kit. You will still have to check for safety but the parts will be good to go.
I have Mike C. install a C&S ambi safety for me (I'm a southpaw). I also just received my C&S match disconnector to replace this worn factory one. I have the Jerry Kuhnhausen 1911 shop manual and some videos from youtube I can use to change out the other parts, or so I think. I figure if I follow the directions and take my time I can do it on my own.
Matt1911
Cyrwus Jr.
Just remember to use patience. You can always take more material off.... well I'm sure you know the saying.
Matt1911
Cyrwus Jr.
You can't put material back on.
pretty sure mike said it on a thread here, something along the lines of know what each part does and how it interacts with the other parts... later I realized this was useful on multiple levels. for one it helps you keep from making mistakes, two when you do make a mistake, or when something fails later you have a better knowledge to know what you either screwed up or what broke.
:72:
Jefpainthorse
Fill in the Blank
What's the pull now? Is it slack on take up ? Too much over travel?
Simple use will improve the trigger quality
Make sure the trigger bow rides freely in the frame. A light polish of the trigger bow and frame channel can help. The trigger should slide in its channel with no resistance
If you understand how the parts work with each other it becomes evident that the trigger bow can be tweaked for length.. The bar and sear touch each other and the gap between the parts is part of the feel.
Boosting the hammer helps hone the hammer notch to the sear. If you have Jerry's manual he describes that.
The 1911 is simple.... But you really need to have a clear mental picture of what moves what... It's all about arcs and angles.
Simple use will improve the trigger quality
Make sure the trigger bow rides freely in the frame. A light polish of the trigger bow and frame channel can help. The trigger should slide in its channel with no resistance
If you understand how the parts work with each other it becomes evident that the trigger bow can be tweaked for length.. The bar and sear touch each other and the gap between the parts is part of the feel.
Boosting the hammer helps hone the hammer notch to the sear. If you have Jerry's manual he describes that.
The 1911 is simple.... But you really need to have a clear mental picture of what moves what... It's all about arcs and angles.
What compound and medium do you use for polishing the internals such as the trigger bow? I'll probably take her apart again this week and do that. I have Jerry's manual and it was very helpful in changing out the disconnector the other night.
Jefpainthorse
Fill in the Blank
Brownells sells stones that fit the channel. I am hesitant to make a recomendation about tools and methods... I am not a gun smith... but i did mis spent part of my wasted youth in a precision machine shop setting.
Stones, crocus closth and fine grits of paper will clean metal parts up. We usually are not "removing" metal- just taking the burrs and wire edges off of parts and channels.. viualization of the objective. and a real good sense of feel and a light hand go a long way in this work.
If your gun is in spec.(mine was) boosting the hammer seems to take a little weight off the trigger without doing much at all work wise.
Again... I dont know what your trigger feels like right now......so it's hard to get specific. I do feel that a "carry" 1911 should break no less than 4 pounds. I will take a little more weight if the trigger break clean at the same point every time. Most 1911's have a short reset anyway... and I kinda like a tad of slack in mine on take up.
Your milage may vary
Stones, crocus closth and fine grits of paper will clean metal parts up. We usually are not "removing" metal- just taking the burrs and wire edges off of parts and channels.. viualization of the objective. and a real good sense of feel and a light hand go a long way in this work.
If your gun is in spec.(mine was) boosting the hammer seems to take a little weight off the trigger without doing much at all work wise.
Again... I dont know what your trigger feels like right now......so it's hard to get specific. I do feel that a "carry" 1911 should break no less than 4 pounds. I will take a little more weight if the trigger break clean at the same point every time. Most 1911's have a short reset anyway... and I kinda like a tad of slack in mine on take up.
Your milage may vary
D
DurningDefenseCustoms
Guest
Gents,
I would like to say a few words on this,
One, I would love to be on the jury of some guy that did his first trigger job and had AD. Polishing is about 2 percent of a properly tuned trigger group, sear primary angle, break away angle, hammer hook height, take-up, overtravel, disconnect recess location, sear spring pressure, barrel link height, Pin location, hammer strut, disconnect height, frame surface prep, trigger bow length and the list keeps going, are all parts of a safe trigger job.
*WARNING*
Removing trigger pull weight in factory triggers without proper understanding, causes trigger bounce, follow, uncontrolled fire, sear nose damage and a host of other issue, as well as puts the shooter and everyone around them in danger.
No one should ever be given the advise, of buy a book, watch you tube and get some sand paper. BIG NO NO gents.
Thanks
Anthony
I would like to say a few words on this,
One, I would love to be on the jury of some guy that did his first trigger job and had AD. Polishing is about 2 percent of a properly tuned trigger group, sear primary angle, break away angle, hammer hook height, take-up, overtravel, disconnect recess location, sear spring pressure, barrel link height, Pin location, hammer strut, disconnect height, frame surface prep, trigger bow length and the list keeps going, are all parts of a safe trigger job.
*WARNING*
Removing trigger pull weight in factory triggers without proper understanding, causes trigger bounce, follow, uncontrolled fire, sear nose damage and a host of other issue, as well as puts the shooter and everyone around them in danger.
No one should ever be given the advise, of buy a book, watch you tube and get some sand paper. BIG NO NO gents.
Thanks
Anthony
jtischauser
I'm addicted to kicking ass
So how would YOU suggest someone that wants to learn to fix and/or modify their own firearms learn the ropes? Classes at votech?
Iggie
Well-Known Fanatic
I would say just don't do it to a gun you depend on. Untill its 100% right.
D
DurningDefenseCustoms
Guest
Mr. Tischauser,
I dont think that pistolsmith training should be as formal as a schooling, but someone that is well respected with a track record of safe smiff work, would be a good person to mentor under. If you want to go to school for it, there are many great places to do it however, but I realize that is not always an option for everyone. It's a good idea to gain as much knowlegde as you can from books, the internet and DVD's, but nothing beats hands on work with some that can correct you as you go. I know a lot of people that are very well educated on weapons platforms, but dont have the hands on training needed to produce a weapon safely. Gunsmithing is alot more than just files and stones, it's machine work, welding, a working knowlegde and an understanding of metallurgy.
If your just going to do it anyway without any real training, I would not want my first job to be a trigger job
. I understand that money is tight for all of us in some respects right now, but as a community its our responsablity to make safety our number on priority.Guns get eoungh bad press, we don't need to give out free ammo.
thanks guys,
Anthony Durning
Mr. Durning makes a very good point, as does Mr. Tischauser. Judging by the scope and quality of Mr. T's impressive collection, and his affinity for professional gunsmithing, experiencing how careful he is on the range, safe to say he can afford to pay a pro to fix his mistake (not that he has ever made one, purely a hypothetical).
It would be nice to have a gunsmith willing to watch over us as we learn, but truth is, its hard to make a living as it is and I would think most gunsmiths simply don't have the time to watch over a hobbyist unless said student willing to pay for the privelage. But it would be nice to have a smith who would be willing to teach those of us who would like to learn.
In the meantime, I too am relegated to YouTube videos and books and likely will continue to make my mistakes as DIY, and will continue to keep the muzzle in safe direction on the range, knowing if I ever do go full auto it will likely only cost me a DQ, embarassment and the cost of my division capacity maximum capacity if I screw up a trigger polish.
It would be nice to have a gunsmith willing to watch over us as we learn, but truth is, its hard to make a living as it is and I would think most gunsmiths simply don't have the time to watch over a hobbyist unless said student willing to pay for the privelage. But it would be nice to have a smith who would be willing to teach those of us who would like to learn.
In the meantime, I too am relegated to YouTube videos and books and likely will continue to make my mistakes as DIY, and will continue to keep the muzzle in safe direction on the range, knowing if I ever do go full auto it will likely only cost me a DQ, embarassment and the cost of my division capacity maximum capacity if I screw up a trigger polish.
shootingbuff
Well-Known Fanatic
Test in/under controlled conditions and expect mistakes. Though one wouldn't want o be embarrassed or be in court over a poorly done trigger job.
