Zero pistol?

[Matt1911]

if you cant tell he's bullshitting you then get out more often.

I'm married with kids.. what's it like to get out more often?

 

[Robaire Pullicar]

I was lost by post number 2. I just checked my zero today after verifying a new load over the chrono I shot offhand at 10 yards. After switching from coated to plated bullets my POI was about 3 inches right and 2 inches high. Made corrections shot some more. From my limited experience inside 30-35 yards bullet drop or rise is negligible but I still need lots of practice. Has anyone else noticed a big shift in POI when switching from one bullet to another?

 

[Sundance74]

An open shooter recommended 17 to me and honestly it worked better than a 25yd zero once I tried it. Most of the targets we shoot in 3 gun or USPSA are large and within 35yd's, divide that in half and you get 17. With the 17yd zero I get another dead on hit at 50yds with the load I'm using.

Corry, you're the only one here flaming enough to listen to Winger

 

[Sundance74]

I was lost by post number 2. I just checked my zero today after verifying a new load over the chrono I shot offhand at 10 yards. After switching from coated to plated bullets my POI was about 3 inches right and 2 inches high. Made corrections shot some more. From my limited experience inside 30-35 yards bullet drop or rise is negligible but I still need lots of practice. Has anyone else noticed a big shift in POI when switching from one bullet to another?

Short answer yes.

 

[technetium-99m]

25-30 yards is far enough away that you can be confident of your zero for any shot in a practical shooting match. Every so often you will have a popper at 50 yards or a small plate at 20 yards. It makes sense to me to verify where the gun hits at similar distances so I know the bullet will hit at the top of the front sight. It's more about getting verification at distance than verifying trajectory.

 

[Scott Hearn]

25-30 yards is far enough away that you can be confident of your zero for any shot in a practical shooting match. Every so often you will have a popper at 50 yards or a small plate at 20 yards. It makes sense to me to verify where the gun hits at similar distances so I know the bullet will hit at the top of the front sight. It's more about getting verification at distance than verifying trajectory.

This is exactly correct. With my USPSA 147 grain loads my 9Pro hits spot on at 7 yds and spot on at 50 yds. I stumbled upon this by complete accident at the time because I'd likely never bother to check it at 50. When I discovered this I was checking to see if my bullets would tumble and if they aren't tumbling at 50 they probably aren't going to. At 25 I'm several inches high so I have a center aim up close (as if it really mattered), "low" aim at 15 and a full 6 o'clock aim at 25-30 on steel plates. Check with the loads you are going to shoot, 124 grain loads aren't near as bad.

 

[TerryKendell]

If your hand loads are close to Winchester Factor Ammo (Weigh - B.C - Velocity) then this program works great

http://www.winchester.com/learning-center/ballistics-calculator/Pages/ballistics-calculator-iphone.aspx (I=Phone)

http://www.winchester.com/learning-center/ballistics-calculator/Pages/ballistics-calculator-silverlight.aspx (Computer)

 

[LuckyDucky]

Where you want to zero your pistol depends on what purpose you are using it for and on what your setup is.

If you are using it for USPSA, then a 6 to 7 yd zero is good because you will be within .6" all the way to 50yd like Scott said.

With that zero, you can aim centermass all the way out to 50 yards and hit centermass without worrying about drop or any of that nonsense.

If you are using for long range silhouette or long range hunting, then you will probably want to zero further out.

The picture below shows why the 7 yd zero is correct. (I put the numbers in for 124gr 9mm)

View attachment 7387

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php