What to look for in a 1911

[Bob Sanders]

I want to get a 1911 in the next year. Probably just shoot SS. I really like to tinker, so what would be a good starting point, or must have features on the basic pistol, including barrel length. My only experience with a 1911 was shooting my First Sargeant's to get him qualified, around 1990. My intention is .45 fun, since I didn't win the RangeMaster.

 

[Mitch Rapp]

I want to get a 1911 in the next year. Probably just shoot SS. I really like to tinker, so what would be a good starting point, or must have features on the basic pistol, including barrel length. My only experience with a 1911 was shooting my First Sargeant's to get him qualified, around 1990. My intention is .45 fun, since I didn't win the RangeMaster.

Just to preface, I don't know much, but here is my opinion.

If I was to try to buy an "introductory 1911" to I would looks for one of these: http://www.stiguns.com/the-sti-spartan-v-2/ They can be bought very reasonably.

If you want to learn to work on them, as in try to be a gunsmith, I would get a real cheap one like an Essex or RIA, so you don't ruin anything nice, and who knows after spending a ton of money might have an ok gun.

I have a Commander length gun, and love it, but if it's going to be a "Match gun" I would get the full size 5" gun.

 

[Jefpainthorse]

How blue is the ocean?

Some things seem simple ... If you like bomar sights find a version cut for them.... Same for novack.... Point is- once your committed it takes a milling machine and your not going back

Same for most other parts and peices like beaver tail safeties ... Brand to brand they all require fitting.... And once you carve up a frame that's what it is.

Internal fire control parts? C&S and the other vendors sell matched sets that require little fitting .... Billed as drop in parts
The thing is.... Any combination of parts is as good as those 3 holes were located in the frame when it was finished..... The closer those holes are to spec the easier parts are to fit and the better the results will be

Many of the lower cost guns have metals that are softer than spec ... So all the fitting you do may be lost to premature wear....
Barrels and bushings need fitting ... As does the link etc...

Most cosmetic stuff ( slide cuts, ejector port lowering) requires milling.

Suggestion.... Decide what you want to use the gun for

If you really think you want a built gun study long and hard... Select every mod you want and take your ideas to a smith who builds custom 1911's. It's cheaper to do it all at once in the long run

A quality 1911 is marketable. Buy what you think you want and live with it awhile.....

 

[WillR]

May be get a Springfield RO and shoot the elephant dung out of it. You will have a better idea of what you want with more experience.

 

[Bob Sanders]

May be get a Springfield RO and shoot the elephant dung out of it. You will have a better idea of what you want with more experience.

I think that is exactly what I need.

 

[MetropolisLakeOutfitters]

Not exactly a basic $500 gun, but keep in mind that your buddies at Samson/Doublestar makes an excellent 1911. I’ve shot one next to a Springfield Operator and preferred the DoubleStar. Plus it's built in Kentucky. Just something to consider.

 

[Beau]

The new Auto-Ordnance Thompson custom 1911 looks like a great 1911 that's 100% made in the USA. I've herd good things about it. front and back checkering, extended safety, full length guide rod. its purdy too.

 

[Jefpainthorse]

I kinda went that route for IDPA... I ended up with a SA loaded 9mm... Ambi safeties, big beaver tail ... front serrations and big "bomar" style sights. I have the round count up to over 3000 rounds right now... and after I found Tripp Cobra mags would work the slide lock it's been smooth sailing. At some point I will send this gun out to a custom smith and get tool steel internals, undercut the grip and checker the front strap--- but out of the box this thing had the bells and whistles enough to do what I needed it to do

However--- that is the only thing I use this gun for. It's a royal pain to carry. In fact - it has CCW'ed about 3 hours during our time together... and those sights and safety ate a pound of hide. But--- In IDPA and some other venues I prefer to shoot this pistol compared to a couple of other 1911's I've owned.

For a CCW 1911... you really need to spend money ( if you need too) to get feeding and ejection reliable. Remember... these guns are built out of fitted parts that all reference to datum line and the mechanism is a study in arcs and angles.

I have seen a lot of the RIA - Citidel pistols worked up... but I don't think they will keep a lot of resale value. For a "tinker gun" or casual shooting they are one heck of a deal.

That said--- a bone stock gun may function fine... and the next one from the line may need some work to demonstrate consistant results

I think that is exactly what I need.

 

[Fyrtwuck]

What's the opinions of the Ruger SR1911?

 

[Jefpainthorse]

What's the opinions of the Ruger SR1911?

Ive surveyed a couple.... good value for an out of the box shooter....

 

[bugboy]

I have a Citadel (Armscor) 1911A1FS that I paid $300.00 for and it has been pretty good to me.

It all depends on if you want to buy a gun to use or one to impress your friends or one to impress the guys at the matches.

 

[White Kid]

Springfield Armory or the Ruger SR1911 are great, they work very well and are at a reasonable price. The SA Loaded model or the TRP model pretty much have everything ya' need on it. Trigger on the Loaded is a 'lil tough but with working with it it'll smooth out nicely. Everything I've heard on the Ruger SR1911, it's been excellent!

 

[Jefpainthorse]

Springfield Armory or the Ruger SR1911 are great, they work very well and are at a reasonable price. The SA Loaded model or the TRP model pretty much have everything ya' need on it. Trigger on the Loaded is a 'lil tough but with working with it it'll smooth out nicely. Everything I've heard on the Ruger SR1911, it's been excellent!

You do know that the trigger in a 1911 has the least bearing on "trigger feel". A little quality time tuning the leaf spring and "boosting" the hammer to improve sear contact will do more to "fix" a 1911 trigger than changing out the parts in most cases.

Take up can be fixed... and any trigger thats sloppy (up and down) can be fixed too.

Once the trigger fits the frame right... shooting it (including safe dry firing) will hone the parts in... not rare to see pull weight fall off a few ounces after a few hundred trigger pulls.

 

[White Kid]

You do know that the trigger in a 1911 has the least bearing on "trigger feel". A little quality time tuning the leaf spring and "boosting" the hammer to improve sear contact will do more to "fix" a 1911 trigger than changing out the parts in most cases.

Take up can be fixed... and any trigger thats sloppy (up and down) can be fixed too.

Once the trigger fits the frame right... shooting it (including safe dry firing) will hone the parts in... not rare to see pull weight fall off a few ounces after a few hundred trigger pulls.

That's what I mean, like practice with it, you can fix it up by sending it to someone but practicing with it will make it smooth out nice.

 

[tsiford]

A little more money, colts are just awesome