Springfield RO 9mm trigger job question

bulletman

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Buddy just got a 9mm range officer. He wants help to make the trigger just a lil lighter. Besides polishing the trigger, disco, sear, hammer hooks, 3 finger and give slight bend. What main spring to use? Is it same as .45 acp and change to 19# if we take out the trigger lock and do a rebuild kit to make it like a normal 1911? What's a lighter # mainspring we need? The trigger breaks about 5#. Want to drop a pound... do a poor mans trigger job... ;) any help would be great. Hope this is posted in right section. New to the 9mm side of 1911. Just want to help him out. Thanks guys. -chris
 
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Shoot it a bunch.....mine dropped a pound after about 150 rounds. Boosting the hammer helps some also


IMHO .... you really dont need to get a general purpose 1911 set less than 4.5# or so..... and its a little dicey to shorten the takeup.... you need some slack to take up
 
ChrisC said:
I took mine to my gun smith
Not a bad alternative. I take my car to a dealership... especially since I dont have any pre 70 stuff parked here. Personally, learning how stuff works and making it better is part of the fun. The basic "gun" as we know it is rooted in 1850-1900 era technology..... as you kids say," not rocket science"
 
Main spring or recoil spring.? I cant recall the spec rate in my 9mm.... but recoil springs generally need left alone unless your handloading ..... whats in it works fine with factory loads

The msh can be swapped for colt style parts ....
 
Until you watch your gun smith put parts under a microscope to ensure edges are exact versus just guessing and that ****er rips off a full magazine because the angle on the sear looked right but wasn't.
 
ChrisC said:
Until you watch your gun smith put parts under a microscope to ensure edges are exact versus just guessing and that ****er rips off a full magazine because the angle on the sear looked right but wasn't.
Wow.... now where did i say stone a sear, Chris? That takes a fixture. Brownell and Midway sell them every day.

It takes more than a rolled pin punch to fit a barrel to a slide too....but we aint takling about that are we?
 
I'm saying I've seen some hack jobs on the range. I don't know if a little polishing here and there will do much. But unless you mess with the sear angle I don't believe you will do much in the way of trigger pull.

The question was how to lighten your trigger pull. How I did it on my .45 RO was take it to my gun smith. He replaced the trigger, the hammer, the sear, sear spring, and strut . he fitted the hammer and sear. Now my trigger pull is around 2.5# the is very little pretravel. Absolutely no stacking and breaks very crisp. Now this is a gun I only use for punching holes in paper. I completely agree with the nothing under 4.5 for general use. But it still pays to have a crisp trigger even at 4.5#
 
Thanks for the info. I did my trigger job on my 1911. I guess what I was looking for was what's stock main spring weight? Is it same as the old colts and Springfield. Or does the 9mm have more or less power. Guess also the Springfield has the ILS and in the 45 its 32# but if you do a rebuilt kit and remove it you can do your 19# hammer spring. Found out wolff makes a 28# for the ILS.... but buddy wants the ILS gone. Guess the only thing to do is try 19 and see if it works. Thanks for all the help. I'm not stoning or removing anything on hammer hooks or sear angle. Just polishing... I'll do some homework in the spring weight in 9mm. I appreciate all the comments and opinions. Take care off to work. :)
 
DRUM ROLLL>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>...............


17# mainspring will work if you dont have super heavy primers. Make sure the hammer when released and going down is not gritty or hitting the sear on the half rooster notch.
The diff between 17 and 19 is maybe a few ounces. and if your hammer and seat arent set up good, youll lose some crispness to the break. A 19# will work just fine
 
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