Springfield M1A zeroing

[Josh Beauchamp]

This seems to be the best place to post this but if I am wrong admins please feel free to move it. I have an M1A loaded and I am trying to get a good solid zero on it. Since I came up in the Army SEVERAL years after they stopped using M14s I am a little unsure on the propper procedure. Based on looking around the internet I found everything talking about using a 25 meter zero target to 100 meter zero, 200 meter zero, and 300 meter zero and several versions on each an every one of those so I figured I would bring it to my fellow Boomer Shooters. So guys and gals what is your best advice on zeroing this fine piece of American artwork. Something that is comfortable on a NRA high power course of fire to use in the field.Thanks for the help.

 

[jtischauser]

This man knows what he is talking about.

http://www.shootingillustrated.com/mobile/article.php?id=15546

 

[Bob Sanders]

For NRA High Power, I had a different zero for each range and shooting position. I always held a 6 o'clock point of aim on the bottom of the black. Keep a log book to refer to each zero at each range, and use that to start, fire a few sighters, and record that too. For anything else, I would hold center of mass and zero at your most common distance.
Bob

 

[Josh Beauchamp]

Thanks Bob. But why use the 6 o'clock hold? I saw since old Marine Corps training films talking about that and had friends do that with their M-16s and M-4s in the Army, I never understood that.

 

[twss]

I could be wrong, buy I think it has to do with obscuring the sight picture. A 10" plate at 300yds is mighty small. The front sight would likely cover up most of the target.

 

[Bob Sanders]

Thanks Bob. But why use the 6 o'clock hold? I saw since old Marine Corps training films talking about that and had friends do that with their M-16s and M-4s in the Army, I never understood that.

Josh, I'm assuming your shooting NRA high power matches. The 6 o'clock hold, or some call it pumpkin on a post, offers very good consistency for your sight picture. Also, if you shoot a team match, your spotter can guide you in on rapid fire stages, saying hold close or hold low, and you have a point of reference. I've only seen a few high power shooters hold center of mass. And, as Brandon said, the black is small at 600 yards.

But, I think however you hold your poi, the most important thing is to log each and every shot with a national match course log book. You will shoot at different venues, and some will be reduced targets. If you log your matches, you will have a good starting point for your sighters, and can dial in before you fire for record. If your rear sight is hooded, it adjusts in 1/2 minute of angle increments. A minute of angle is 1 inch at 100 yards. Each click of windage and elevation is 1 moa on the rear sight base. So, log your setting in relation to center and all the way down.

NRA high power is an awesome game, and I wish I could shoot that and USPSA. But, if you're going to shoot silhouettes, or maybe plates, I would hold center of mass, and zero at a known distance, and leave the sights there, (I always set my sights back to center and down after a stage). But still, write your zero down somewhere.

I wanted to add, it does seem counter intuitive to hold 6 o'clock, because at 600 yards the point of impact is like a foot above the point of aim, but it's consistent and it works. Remember, the goal is to center the 10 ring, not snipe insurgents or take a deer.

I hope I helped!
Bob

 

[henschman]

I'm not quite sure what you're asking. Zeroing with the M1A is easy... the knobs adjust with 1 MOA per click for both windage and elevation. Are you wanting to know how to index the elevation knob so the range markings correspond with your zero? First, understand that the markings correspond to the trajectory of 147 grain M80 ball. If you're shooting any other load, they won't be very accurate. Even with M80, it won't be perfectly exact to every load... just good enough to get hits on a man-sized target out to 600m or so. Anyway, if you're trying to set the knobs, first zero the rifle. It doesn't really matter what distance you do this at... I usually start with a 25m zero. Then you turn the elevation knob all the way down until it bottoms out, counting the number of clicks it takes you to get there from your zero. When bottomed out, you can loosen the screw for the elevation knob with a standard screwdriver. Loosen it enough so that it will make further clicks down (the rear sight itself won't move... it is bottomed out). Turn the knob until the sight is set for the corresponding range (the 200m setting corresponds to a 25m zero). Then turn the knob further downward the number of clicks you counted earlier. Then tighten the screw as much as you can, and then turn the knob all the way the other way, until it tops out on elevation (with the aperture sticking way up in the air). Then you can tighten the screw all the way. It needs to be tight enough so that you can press down firmly on the aperture without it going down. Now the windage knob is indexed. If you only did this with a 25m zero, confirm at 100m or more if possible, and adjust as necessary. FYI the M1A elevation knob is calibrated in meters, so keep in mind that meters are roughly 10% longer than yards if you are shooting on a range denominated in yards. Also FYI, the battle sight zero for the M1A is 250m (275 yards). This is 2 clicks up from your 200m sight setting. With this setting, you should be able to get hits on a man-sized target anywhere from point blank out to 350m or so. The standard M1A front sight is 7.8 MOA wide, which is the width of a man-sized target at battle sight zero range. However, if you have a Loaded, it probably has a NM front sight, which is 4 MOA wide (the width of a man-sized target at 500 yards/450m).

It is highly recommended to use a 6 o'clock hold. It allows you to see the target better rather than trying to block it halfway out, which is hard to do when focusing on the front sight as you should. It is especially hard when the target is narrower in your sight picture than the front sight blade. Also, on a man-sized target, it helps to counteract trajectory when using your battle sight zero (it makes you hold low at closer ranges, and high at longer ranges).

Hope this helps!