Glock guide rod/recoil spring

KyleFarnham

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Joined
Jan 17, 2011
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Location
Yukon
I am looking to get a new guide rod assembly for my Glock 19, but I had a few questions.

#1 - What is the measurement for the factory assembly? (17lb, 18lb, etc)
#2 - How hard is it to find a guide rod assembly that is a pound or two lighter than the factory part?
#3 - Any suggestions on a site/store to find one?

Thanks.

PS - The gun has started to have some stove pipe and/or failure to feed issues.
I think I have narrowed down the problem to the gun not cycling my reloads (hence a lighter rod?) or having shoot a few thousand rounds through the gun maybe the guide rod/spring is wore out (just replace it?). Your thoughts?
 
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Anybody dealing glock parts will offer them.
You just need to decide plastic or stainless rod.
Make sure it comes with ism (sp?) flat spring
as they seem to be prefered.
Some dealers even offer a package with 3 different
weight springs.

stove pipes/ftf are usually caused by
1.lack of lubrication
2 recoil spring weak
3 mag spring/follower problem

you might want to order mag rebuild kits if your mags are older.
they are about 12 bucks
I had 2 older mags that came with my G21 that were causing ftf's
put the kits in and no more problems.
 
Glock also recommends changing the guide rod assembly every 5k rounds (except for gen 4). But I know they work well beyond this number... has it ever been armored? a good detailed inspection might not hurt. also to rule out the magazine issue make sure they are marked so you can isolate which magazine the malfunctions are happening on.

I noticed that the majority of your issues were happening when shooting through ports. I believe that your foundation was compromised by bending over and leaning into the port which can lead to weapon malfunctions. Next time try to squat in front of the port, it will be just as fast and will provide a better sight picture and more shooting platform.
 
Are you trying to save powder by tuning down your reloads? Your timing/cycle-rate is off.
 
Glock also recommends changing the guide rod assembly every 5k rounds (except for gen 4). But I know they work well beyond this number... has it ever been armored? a good detailed inspection might not hurt. also to rule out the magazine issue make sure they are marked so you can isolate which magazine the malfunctions are happening on.

I noticed that the majority of your issues were happening when shooting through ports. I believe that your foundation was compromised by bending over and leaning into the port which can lead to weapon malfunctions. Next time try to squat in front of the port, it will be just as fast and will provide a better sight picture and more shooting platform.

Thanks for the tips...
-I got the G19 used and have shot a few thousand myself in the last year. So who knows... the rod may be going out.
-armored? Who/where would I go in the OKC area? I want to go to a Glock Armorer's class... would that be helpful?
-Magazines are numbered, but I am usually too hyped up at the time to remember which one messed up. I need to be more aware of this after I finish a stage.
-The compromised position makes sense I will work on bending at the knee instead of the waist. (being 6'8" is tough. :lol:)


Are you trying to save powder by tuning down your reloads? Your timing/cycle-rate is off.

I tried that first. I reload 9mm 147gr bullets with 3.5gr of Universal powder. (That is pushing the high side of things.)
 
Maybe it's over-charged, then. I had a 9mm Hi-Power that needed a 22 lbs recoil spring for factory ammo. I'd buy a calibration spring pack from Wolff, it's cheap and it will arrive in less than a week's time.
 
I can do it for you, I'm sure mike Cyrus would too, as well as troy fullbright. I wouldnt spend the money to go to a class. I wouldn't have if the dept didn't pay for it.
 
McF, I can give it a look over for you. I'm going to bet your porblem lies with the ammo/gun combination. But it never hurts to check the gun out for problems. PM me and we'll figure out when we can hook up. If ya want, and if it is still warranted.
 
-The compromised position makes sense I will work on bending at the knee instead of the waist. (being 6'8" is tough. :lol:)

I shot the last HH match and didn't have any issues. I even made it a point to bend at the knees for the stage with a port!

McF, I can give it a look over for you. I'm going to bet your porblem lies with the ammo/gun combination. But it never hurts to check the gun out for problems. PM me and we'll figure out when we can hook up. If ya want, and if it is still warranted.

PM sent... thanks!
 
Does a lighter or stiffer spring typically reduce recoil? Assuming you have excellent grip position.
 
Does a lighter or stiffer spring typically reduce recoil? Assuming you have excellent grip position.
you should not change springs unless you're changing your load. A lighter spring will reduce the amount of snap back downward when slide returns to battery for quicker sight re-aquisition. But the lighter spring should only be used with reduced power loads. A heavier spring should be used in conjuction with hotter (+p etc.) than std. loads.

So to answer your question, niether, it's load not the spring that reduces the amount of recoil.
 
Makes sense. Thanks for the response. We recently lowered the amount of grain in our load and doing so I think is the cause of my buddies glock not cycling correctly.
 
Makes sense. Thanks for the response. We recently lowered the amount of grain in our load and doing so I think is the cause of my buddies glock not cycling correctly.
more than likey.

I run a reduced 9mm lead load in my M&P 9 pro & had to change to a reduced power recoil spring. With the std power spring I'd get random stovepipes. Not a single malf with the reduced power spring over 1700-1800 rnds in 2 days with no cleaning.
 
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