Do you use a FLGR in your 1911s?
- Thread starter Mike A
- Start date
Never. If it comes with one, I'll change it out for a standard one. Not needed and just more hassle and weight. IMHO.
dennishoddy
Moderator
Agree.
Amen
Longcarbine
Well-Known Fanatic
I put FLGR's in all my 1911's that don't come that way. The difference in feel, weight or performance is inconceivable, but that's just how I like them set up.
Take an M-14 & cycle the action out of it's stock.
You can see the Op rod spring kinking as it compresses using the stock Spring guide.
Does it affect accuracy? Yes. We make a special NM spring guide that fits the inside of the spring.
Building an M1A/M14 into a NM rifle means you must make every action repeat the same way each time.
On my 1911s I have removed any FLGRs & replaced them with the GI setup.
I only ask that my 1911s always shoot & hit what I point & shoot at 25 yards.
Think about how many real improvements have been made to JMBs 1911? The 1911 A1? Maybe.
I mean real improvements not just pretty. Damn few if any Shock buffs, FLGRs, Magwell funnels, spur hammers,
Beavertail safety, finger cuts, Arched MSHs. Like the Ruger 10/22 so many add ons that do nothing to improve
on the org design.
You can see the Op rod spring kinking as it compresses using the stock Spring guide.
Does it affect accuracy? Yes. We make a special NM spring guide that fits the inside of the spring.
Building an M1A/M14 into a NM rifle means you must make every action repeat the same way each time.
On my 1911s I have removed any FLGRs & replaced them with the GI setup.
I only ask that my 1911s always shoot & hit what I point & shoot at 25 yards.
Think about how many real improvements have been made to JMBs 1911? The 1911 A1? Maybe.
I mean real improvements not just pretty. Damn few if any Shock buffs, FLGRs, Magwell funnels, spur hammers,
Beavertail safety, finger cuts, Arched MSHs. Like the Ruger 10/22 so many add ons that do nothing to improve
on the org design.
After going thru the buy a new 1911 send it out for this that and the other thing and promptly losing my a** when I turned around and sold them, I've come to really respect the knowledge of the masters of the 1911. Therefore the majority of mine are factory stock or nearly so. I like arched m/s hoisings and short triggers. If the stock trigger really sucks, I'll have it tuned. I'm generally fine now with any sights that come on the gun. If I replace them it'll be a retro rear generally with a .150 notch which works great for me for up close, and a white dot front. Stock strongside thumb safety (usually a factory Colt if I replace it) and a trigger pull in the 4.5-5# range. I don't agree with everything Col. Cooper said, but I do now finally go along with his analogy of sights you can see a trigger you can use and 100% reliability. These masters had it going on. sorry it's taken 71 years to figure that out. One of the very best things about 1911's is their versitility. As plain or fancy or in between as you like It's up to you.
I have 1 piece Wilson guide rods in 2 1911's so I can run the .250 diameter flatwire recoil springs that are rated at lasting 40,000 rounds. They also have a pinhole up front that will allow removal of the slide without full disassembly.
A couple of small advantages.
Is it better than the original GI rod and spring as far as function of the gun?
No.
A couple of small advantages.
Is it better than the original GI rod and spring as far as function of the gun?
No.
Mike Galway
Well-Known Fanatic
I took the FLGRs out of two of my Wilsons, went to flat wire spring, standard guide rod. Noticed absolutely no difference except in disassembly. Still have one with FLGR.
