Charge hole chamfering

RevoShooter

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Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
213
Location
Yukon, ok
Do any of you Revo guys in okc have a chamfering tool for .45 cal cylinders? I may have had a 625 follow me home this weekend and I'm looking to get it tuned up for the next uspsa match if there's one at H&H this Sunday. I'm not too willing to take a power tool to my new super expensive Revo, so I was hoping maybe I could borrow the correct tool.
Thanks guys!
 
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Thanks for the reply. I'll shoot him an email when I recover from buying the 625. Haha. I was just hoping I could score the tool and do it myself for free.
 
I've seen it done with a Dremel tool. It will get the job done.
 
No.343 said:
I've seen it done with a Dremel tool. It will get the job done.
It's a lot cheaper to use the non electric dremel tool

We call it a " file" around here. Even with a chamfer cutter ( cheap enough from midway) the ejector star needs to come out... And it's gets blended into the chamfered holes by hand. You need a good eye and a way to index the cutter so depth is uniform. I'd hate to try to break that angle, keep it concentric and uniform with a dremel tool- as much as cylinders cost .

Did one with a file totally once.... Took a while. And my generation learned file work in shop training. Years ago any machinists or die makers apprentice filed a square chunk of bar stick to dimension and made it square and parallel on all 4 sides.... I used mine ( slow learner....did a few) for set up blocks on mill tables and they are still in a toolbox here someplace.
 
Yeah, I've heard of dremel chamfering too. I'm not brave enough to put a dremel to it, though. I don't like thw idea of that much heat on the cylinder from grinding it away, on top of the issues Jeff pointed out.

Filing isnt a bad idea. I bet that did take forever, though. What types of files/file profiles did you use? Did it take much polishing to clean up after?

My problem with the midway tool is that it costs enough that I could probably send both my cylinders to a smith and have them chamfered for around or a hair more than the price of buying the tool that will only do my 625. :-/ however, if I decide to just do it myself, I'll probably order the proper tools. I like having the pilot guide and what not on the tool. Less room for error.
 
Oh, almost forgot, I find it funny Smith puts the chamfered star in the JM from the PC model. Looks funny on square cut holes. Definitely would need a little TLC blending after the cylinder work.
 
Smith does it because every DIY kitchen table and real smith did it back years ago... when revolvers ruled PPC and the other Caveman shooting sports from the days of yore.

You need some swiss files and various and sundry emery papers. For $30 buy a cutter... it's a lot less agitation and way cheaper than living with a boogered up ugly cylinder.

You need to figure out a way to hold the cutter and set up a depth stop for it. I've used a mill to set it up ... turned the cutter by hand and improvised a depth stop so all the holes are uniform. A solid vise and a drill press could improvise too...
 
By cutter do you mean something like a .5" countersink? I definitely agree on using the proper tools and not turning my expensive Smith into a hackjob POS.

I can get emery cloth from work for the polish job. I have some crocus cloth left from polishing up my trigger surfaces in it and the GP, too. I'm an engine builder by trade, so that part's no problem.

Thanks for the help, man.
 
If you have a few bullet point cratex bits, a dremel and some patience you can get some on there without it looking like crap. Getting them cut and polishing them up is better. You could also use a cone bit grinding stone and polish after, many have been done this way. A drill press running as fast as it will go and a gentle hand will work too. Be damn sure you stay off the ratchet teeth.
 
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