Barrel profile

Ksmirk

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Dec 26, 2010
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Oklahoma City, Okla
Ok here's the trick fella's, building a light hunting rifle mainly yotes so I'm wanting to keep the weight down. I got in on the QD lower/uppers group buy so dangit I guess I gotta build something now :huh: I'm not hunting zombies or two legged varmints this is going to be just a plain ol' calling rifle, yeah I know BORING! I'm going to go with an 18" 20" barrel and am wondering if the DCM barrels are pretty heavy? the barrel I would like I can't find and it's the one that Remington put on there AR15 version geared toward the yote callers.

Anyone know of a good place I can find barrels? I've got my places for bolt guns but I have nothing for AR goodies. Later,

Kirk
 
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DCM barrels are heavy profile. A heavy profile barrel is not fun to carry.

I just built a 20" lightweight profile upper with .730" diameter everywhere but the gas block surface. You're not going to any factory lightweight 18" barrels, so if you want 18" you'll have to have one made or turned down. Many manufacturers make 20" lightweight or government profile barrels. These fit the bill pretty well.

I like stainless, so if I were in your shoes I'd call White Oak Armament (http://www.whiteoakarmament.com/) and ask them for a 20" barrel contoured the way you want it.
 
There are a bunch of good barrel makers. Satern, Wilson, JP, Lother Walther just to name a few. I would go 18" medium contour at the heaviest. I have am 18" JP that us lights out accurate and my 20" Lother Walther sub MOA too. Nordic Components makes some good stuff too.
 
There are a bunch of good barrel makers. Satern, Wilson, JP, Lother Walther just to name a few. I would go 18" medium contour at the heaviest. I have am 18" JP that us lights out accurate and my 20" Lother Walther sub MOA too. Nordic Components makes some good stuff too.

Those JP barrels are SICK! I've personally seen them shoot 3/4" at 300 yards. The only problem is that they're $400. At .650" under the HG they point quite well.
 
If you're mainly shooting light bullets and want an easy toting rifle, you might consider looking for a Colt 20" pencil barrel and lopping off the FSB for using an optic. Those might not be accurate enough for your tastes though. If that's the case, I'd opt for White Oak or call Adco about profiling the barrel of your choice.
 
By Adco do you mean www.adcofirearms.com?

Can you reprofile any barrel without damaging it?
Adco can and yes, that's them. They have several options for barrel work under shop services.

http://www.adcofirearms.com/shopservices/

A lot of guys over on M4C use them for profiling barrels with good reviews.
 
Thanks fella's that gives me some places to go look, I deal with McGowen on bolt rifles and just found out they do AR barrels. I'll have to get on the phone and see what they can offer as I've had awesome luck so far with them. I'll check out some of the other places you mentioned also. Later,

Kirk
 
Thanks fella's that gives me some places to go look, I deal with McGowen on bolt rifles and just found out they do AR barrels. I'll have to get on the phone and see what they can offer as I've had awesome luck so far with them. I'll check out some of the other places you mentioned also. Later,

Kirk


Keep us posted onteh McGowen barrel details.
 
Got an e-mail from McGowen and they said yes they can make AR barrels, give them what you want and they can make it! price? all depends on what ya want. Later,

Kirk
 
Dude, no question. Put a retro 20" A1 profile barrel on it. Tint now you can get a complete parts kit from Sarco or Cheaper than dirt that comes with everything except a stripped lower and disconnector for bout $450. These are all Colt parts except the barrel. It even comes with a FA BCG and the FA trigger, sear, and GI auto sear to do with as you please. The Barrels are new, in the white and don't have the cuts for front sight tower taper pins. You can get a set screw version of the sight tower from several places, though. You might even want to use a picatinny-railed gas block with set screws to bypass the taper pin slots. That and some cerakote on the barel and your good to go. Either use a different, A3 upper or a scope base for an A1 upper.
 
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