KeithCross
Well-Known Fanatic
My son is deadset on purchasing a Mosin as his first hunting rifle and I've been thinking about getting one myself. Mosins being what Mosins are...what do I need to look for so I don't get a "lemon"?
What to look for in a Mosin Nagant...?
- Thread starter KeithCross
- Start date
drmitchgibson
The white Morgan Freeman
It's easy to fix, but check the bolt closure if you're looking at a used one. Used guns sometimes have a bent extractor from people using them as single-shots by closing the bolt with a round in the chamber instead of feeding it from the magazine. It will be noticeably tough to close the bolt on a gun with a bent extractor. I'd just order an unissued or "rearsenaled" rifle if I were you. Even the carbines are pretty heavy compared to modern bolt-action rifles, so I would say it doesn't matter too much if you get a carbine or a rifle. The carbine will cost about twice as much, or close.
Also, the original sights are set for POI with the bayonet attached, or in the case of the M44, extended. FYI.
Also, the original sights are set for POI with the bayonet attached, or in the case of the M44, extended. FYI.
KeithCross
Well-Known Fanatic
I wondered about that. I've heard that before...interesting.
...and thanks for the tip on the bolt!
Biggsly
Well-Known Fanatic
Aim Surplus had some for cheap. Might check them out.
aestus
Well-Known Fanatic
If you're willing to put in another $50 - $75 in a cheap pistol scope mounted in a scout position and some 3/8" rings, this can be done for relatively little work.
I cut the barrel down to 18", didn't even bother with a recrowning tool and is far more accurate than it was in the original configuration. Sanded the stock under the barrel just enough to slide a dollar all the way to the chamber. The rifle can be lightened even more with the ATI synthetic stock, but decided to stick with the wood for now.
I cut the barrel down to 18", didn't even bother with a recrowning tool and is far more accurate than it was in the original configuration. Sanded the stock under the barrel just enough to slide a dollar all the way to the chamber. The rifle can be lightened even more with the ATI synthetic stock, but decided to stick with the wood for now.
Biggsly
Well-Known Fanatic
I like it.If you're willing to put in another $50 - $75 in a cheap pistol scope mounted in a scout position and some 3/8" rings, this can be done for relatively little work.
I cut the barrel down to 18", didn't even bother with a recrowning tool and is far more accurate than it was in the original configuration. Sanded the stock under the barrel just enough to slide a dollar all the way to the chamber. The rifle can be lightened even more with the ATI synthetic stock, but decided to stick with the wood for now.
Mitch Rapp
Well-Known Fanatic
Ok, I'm seriously going to do that. What scope mount did you use?
KeithCross
Well-Known Fanatic
Dude, that's cool.
Kevin, it looks like he's knocked out the rear sight. I've heard that when you do that it leaves a 3/8 dovetail. Pretty handy if you ask me... :whistle:
Mitch Rapp
Well-Known Fanatic
Dude, that's cool.
Kevin, it looks like he's knocked out the rear sight. I've heard that when you do that it leaves a 3/8 dovetail. Pretty handy if you ask me... :whistle:
I realized that after I asked, very cool, definitely next on my list.
aestus
Well-Known Fanatic
Dude, that's cool.
Kevin, it looks like he's knocked out the rear sight. I've heard that when you do that it leaves a 3/8 dovetail. Pretty handy if you ask me... :whistle:
You are correct. If you knock out the rear sight assembly, under it is a 3/8" dovetail rail.
A word of caution, sometimes the rear sight assembly is soldered on. You either have to heat it with a really hot torch or beat the living crap out of it until the soldering breaks. Since this was a "project" gun, I opted to beat the rear sight assembly with a large punch until the solder broke and the rear assembly just slide right off.
Also, the two pins holding the rear assembly (besides the possible solder) are good to keep. I basically aligned the scope rings so that they clamped on directly over the pin holes. Using the holes as a guide, I ran a drill through the existing pin holes with the scope rings on them to "notch" the bottom of the rings where they clamp on to the rail. I reinserted the steel pins and it keeps the scope rings from creeping forward due to recoil.
Depending on the type of scope or rings, you may only be able to align one of the rings to the pinholes to "notch." That is fine and it will be enough. I have over 300 rounds through this with only one of the scope rings notched and held in place with pins and the scope hasn't creeped at all.
Depending on the type of scope and type of cheek weld you prefer, you will want atleast medium height rings. I have medium height rings on this one and it keeps my cheek weld low and tight. Others prefer the taller rings.
KeithCross
Well-Known Fanatic
What kind of accuracy are you getting from it?
aestus
Well-Known Fanatic
When I got this rifle, it was in really rough shape. The crown was horrible and the rifling was well worn. Before the modification, I was getting minute of man type accuracy. Cutting the barrel down to 18 inches and squaring it off without a crown job gave me 1-2 moa with surplus ammo. A buddy of mine had a pristine hex receiver with sharp rifling and was able to borrow a crowning tool from someone and he's able to get 1 moa with surplus and about quarter sized groups with reloads after cutting his down to 18".
KeithCross
Well-Known Fanatic
Oh, wow...that's awesome.
KeithCross
Well-Known Fanatic
So, what's the difference between the hex receivers and the rounded ones, or rather, is one better than the other or does it really matter?
drmitchgibson
The white Morgan Freeman
Historical significance. Hex/round doesn't matter unless you're collecting old $90 battle rifles. The quality of the individual gun is what matters most. Some are not very good, most are decent to great.
coolhandluke
Active Fanatic
Hex receivers are typically regarded as being better quality than rounds as they tend to have a better overall fit and finnish. You will see round receivers that are exceptions to this and they will be pre-war production. Attention to detail when it came to machining etc suffered once the war began and the Russians were trying to maximize production.
If you are looking for a Mosin as a shooter and not a collectible, just pick a rifle with the best overall bore and stock condition. Be sure to inspect the muzzle as you will find rifles that have been counterbored or that are devoid of rifling after being cleaned improperly with a steel cleaning rod. There are plenty of improvements that can be done to the rifle (trigger, bolt, stock shimming) with little to no cost involved that will help with function and accuracy. You'd be hard pressed to find a Mosin that your son wouldn't be happy with considering the price of the rifle and surplus ammo.
If you are looking for a Mosin as a shooter and not a collectible, just pick a rifle with the best overall bore and stock condition. Be sure to inspect the muzzle as you will find rifles that have been counterbored or that are devoid of rifling after being cleaned improperly with a steel cleaning rod. There are plenty of improvements that can be done to the rifle (trigger, bolt, stock shimming) with little to no cost involved that will help with function and accuracy. You'd be hard pressed to find a Mosin that your son wouldn't be happy with considering the price of the rifle and surplus ammo.
poopgiggle
B Class Nobody
Get a Finn Mosin
