Stuck Safety

kamml

Fanatic
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
11
I am working on adding a new Brown sear and hammer to my 1911 Rock. As I was trial fitting the new parts early in the build the safety went in but I cannot pull it back out. I need to take it out because it is not working. I have the new hammer, sear and disconnector in place, without a problem. I have not installed the spring plunger that contacts the safety, but have the hammer link installed. I have trial fit the parts, but the safety failed function testing and so I want to get the safety off. But their appears to be metal to metal contact somewhere inside that is stopping me from withdrawing out of the bare frame. Any suggestions?
 

kamml

Fanatic
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
11
It is stripped down completly, save for the sear, hammer and left side safety. The safety covers the sear and hammer pin so they cannot be extracted with the safety on the frame. I am stumped.
 

1Sgt_Jerry

Well-Known Fanatic
Joined
Jun 9, 2021
Messages
82
Location
Mid-West
In addition, hitting it liberally with Kroil or soaking the end of the frame in oil may loosen the bind a bit.
 

kamml

Fanatic
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
11
Thank you for the great instructions. I thought the same, it went in it should come out. I will try tonight.
Ken
 

switchback

Well-Known Fanatic
Fanatic Family
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
472
Been there, its the lug on backside of TS. Lube it and somehow hold the TS in the mid position, while gently tapping the right hand side of the axle of TS. It will eventually back out, will need to continually move the business side TS lever up and down while tapping. After removal , install the TS in a bare frame and examine lug interference with frame cutout. Thats more than likely where the problem lies. Doing this its only the frame and TS, then add one ignition part at a time. Be aware, forcing the blocking lug of TS onto the sear can lock it up as well.

When you are satisfied TS lug is clear in frame cutout and all ignition parts installed, without grip safety installed and hammer at full cock, install TS, blocking lug should contact the sear and NOT completely install. This where you scribe a mark and begin to slowly remove material from TS blocking lug. GO SLOW the thumb safety needs to move up the sear without moving the sear at all, but blocking lug of TS must touch the sear!!

I use my 10-8 armorers block to securely hold TS while assisting in removing material in correct angle on blocking lug. I've been told it can be accomplished by being vigilant to retain exact angle on blocking lug. This will take several tries to get it correct. Leave a bit on blocking lug so you can stone to a smooth finish

No room for error here, if blocking lug doesn't touch sear when in the up position ( again without moving position of sear at all) it is not safe. Period.

Do you know the safety checks for this condition? If not cock pistol, put safety on and with approx twice force necessary to fire , depress GS and pull trigger. Hold pistol near ear and gently pull hammer further down. If you hear a faint "click" too much material has been removed from TS blocking lug. This is an unsafe condition and a new TS will need to be ordered. Most of us have done this, its part o the learning process

This isn't rocket science, and sorry if my instructions make it seem difficult. However, if install isn't exact, pistol isn't safe. After removal is achieved, study TS fit in your bare frame. Once it moves fully and without interference, install ignition parts and attempt to install TS, it SHOULD NOT install all the way ( btw grip safety is not installed at this time) and you will clearly see where locking lug of TS needs work. Good luck
 
Last edited:

switchback

Well-Known Fanatic
Fanatic Family
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
472
Thanks guys, but I prove regularly there is still much to learn on this "simple" old design.

BTW, that "click"? Thats the sear resetting to hammer hooks, proof,if necessary, of its unsafe condition. Remember the hammer hook height varies from .018 ( too short for my liking) to .025 (think military A1 here) So regardless, its not much and to have sear hook resetting into that small surface? TS must contact the sear, without moving sear at all. And angles must be kept. I use an Ed Brown sear jig with repeatable results, the man who was my mentor called his method "the old dog style" no jig, just years of experience.

You don't know what you don't know. I only wish I could take another 1911 class taught by a master. I learned a lot, like drinking from a firehose. But I now would have went so much deeper. Such is life. I always say the 1911 build class (at my local jr college) is the best firearm money I ever spent.


edit to add the hammer hook height referenced above. Actual can be less if going for whisper light bullseye trigger pull, to more than.025 on an ill fitted, crazy trigger pull. Easy to remove material, not so easy to put back!! some retailers (C&S) sell their hammers with hooks prepped at .018, I prefer more material so don't use them. C&S sells high quality parts and their hammers are no exception, I just prefer a bit more hook
 
Last edited:

kamml

Fanatic
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
11
I got it out last night using the tapping method. Thank you. I boxed up the parts and will get back to the pistol later on next month. Thank you for the sage advice too. I will not play with sear angles, I have the jig, but too much can go wrong so I won't fuss with that. It is a neat machine when its right and I enjoy its simple complexity. Mr. Browning was a genius.
 

kamml

Fanatic
Joined
Feb 24, 2021
Messages
11
I ordered a new Wilson combat safety this morning. I expect it will fit well with the Brown sear and hammer.
 

CECannonJr

Well-Known Fanatic
Fanatic Family
Joined
Jan 15, 2021
Messages
1,326
Location
Eastern North Carolina
I ordered a new Wilson combat safety this morning. I expect it will fit well with the Brown sear and hammer.
If you ordered the Bulletproof safety, there's a good chance you will need to do very little to it to get it fit.
 
Last edited:

switchback

Well-Known Fanatic
Fanatic Family
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
472
agreed ^^^^, the less expensive cast TS from WC, don't recall model number, while I prefer the shape better , I stopped using it many years ago. No not because it is cast, but found too many where the axle was not 90* to the body and the axle was not round. Entirely too much work to make it. But I did prefer its shape. I've been using Novaks TS, with great success. Also the offering from EGW, however it requires much reshaping , for ME. It is however worth the effort

OP, glad you got your TS removed
 

CECannonJr

Well-Known Fanatic
Fanatic Family
Joined
Jan 15, 2021
Messages
1,326
Location
Eastern North Carolina
agreed ^^^^, the less expensive cast TS from WC, don't recall model number, while I prefer the shape better , I stopped using it many years ago. No not because it is cast, but found too many where the axle was not 90* to the body and the axle was not round. Entirely too much work to make it. But I did prefer its shape. I've been using Novaks TS, with great success. Also the offering from EGW, however it requires much reshaping , for ME. It is however worth the effort

OP, glad you got your TS removed
Switchback, that was great advice and instruction you provided for the OP. I learned from it too. Thank you for taking the time to share.
 

Latest posts

Top