How to Setup Your Benelli M1 & M2 for 3 Gun

jtischauser

I'm addicted to kicking ass
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The question of what do I need to do to my Benelli to get it ready for 3 gun comes up a lot! The most obvious answer is to send it to Mike at Accurate Iron with a blank check. But for those of you that are interested in what you are going to get here is the list of things I (meaning Mike Cyrwus) have done to my Benelli M1 & M2 to make them winners.

To customize the Benelli M1/2 for 3 gun you will want the following accessories. I will start from the muzzle and work my way to the butt stock.

Briley Extended Choke Tubes The M1 uses the Mobile Sport choke system. The M2 uses the CRIO Plus choke system. The black choke tubes look blend nicely with your barrel and mag tube moreso than the stainless ones do. I run a Diffusion, Light Modified, and a on a rare occasion a Full choke. Light Modified is used about 98% of the time in 3 gun. If you only have the jack for one choke. Get the LM. I have recently started running more Improved Cylinder in my gun. I also purchased a full set of chokes because I can't leave well enough alone.

+5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 Nordic Components Extended Magazine Tube. The +5 tube will allow you to run an 8+1 configuration in your Benelli. The +5 tube will align itself perfectly with the end of your 21" barrel with a Briley choke sticking out. The +6 lines up pretty nicely with a 24" barrel. Nordic also makes 3 different length end caps that allow you to either flush the tube up with the end of your barrel or the XXL cap allows you to gain an extra round of capacity in your magazine tube. A lot of shooters like the +6 or +7 tube so that they can run 9+1 or 10+1 at matches that allow you to add more ammo after the buzzer. Since a lot of stages are setup with 9-10 total rounds this allows you to add one or two more shell ASAP to the tube after the buzzer goes off and avoid that dreaded and slow slide lock reload. When I first started 3 gunning and bought my M2 I was running a +5 tube that held 8 rounds simply because it looked the most tactical being lined up with the end on the barrel. I then got over how it looked and realized how important it was to have an extra round or two in the gun. So I bought a +6 tube that held 9 rounds. I then added an XXL end cap which bumped my capacity to 10 in the magazine tube. I ran that setup for several months. I finally went to a +8 tube w/XXL cap that holds 12 rounds. I realized that the extra length wasn't a problem but being able to weak hand load all four shells out of my caddy on top of a full gun after the start buzzer was huge. Having extra room for shells affords you so many more options on when and how many shells you can load during a big shotgun course of fire. Nordic now makes a straight up +9 tube. So you don't have to buy the longer cap.

Hi Viz Front Sight There are a bunch of options in shotgun front sights out there so this item is definitely a personal preference one. I will say that Hi Viz is a huge sponsor of 3 gun and other shooting sports so buying from them is supporting the sport. I started out with a Tri Comp on my gun. I went to the largest bead I could find from Hi Viz. I thought bigger was better to make it easier to pick up the front sight. I went through a long period of poor performance on slug shooting. Part of the problem was that my front sight was almost as large as the target. That made precision shots difficult. I have switched to the smallest bead that I could find in the Hi Viz line up. I am about to experiment with their flame sight as well. I have run their magnetic models on a few guns too. They work well especially if you don't have a gunsmith nearby to drill and stake the screw in type sights. I would picked up a backup if you go magnetic as its easier to rip one off on a dump/pickup barrel or stage prop.

Nordic Components Shotgun Tube Clamp This is not a must have option as the magazine extensions are pretty damn tough. That being said there are horror stories out there of people breaking mag extension tubes when grounding their gun in a barrel or banging them into a wall/port or just shooting with them unclamped so much that the horrific recoil impulse shakes them enough to induce a fatigue faliure in the threads. Personally, I don't run one unless I need to run a sling on my shotgun. It just adds more weight up fon the front of the gun. Slinging shotguns is not done at most matches but it is required at some. This is definately an item you can order at a later date when required by the match you plan to attend. You could also borrow your buddies as he will not be shooting at the same time that you are shooting. You should be aware that you can change the point of impact of your slugs significantly when you clamp one of these on your shotgun barrrel. So test your gun before the match the see if the POA and POI shift with the clamp attatched.

Noveske Shotgun Barrel Clamp QD Sling Mount
This is a newer piece of gear from the NST and its a good one. Simple attach the mounting bracket to your Nordic Components Clamp and you're set. When you need to sling your shotty why not use the same method as you do for your rifle?

10-32 X 1/2" Dome Stud This is another method of attaching a sling to your shotgun. Everyone has a set if Uncle Mikes sling swivels in the drawer. The dome stud simply screws into the Nordic Barrel Clamp. It allows you to attach your sling's sling swivel to the front end of your Benelli. I recommend a little blue loctite to make sure the stud is still there when u need it.

Viking Tactics Padded Sling The padded version is the way to go here.

QD Sling Swivel This goes on the barrel end of your VTAC sling and attaches to the 10-32 X 1/2" Dome Stud. Any old brand will do. You probably already have a set or five of these in the closet already.

10/22 Folding Rear Sight To aid in sight alignment when shooting slugs the 10/22 rear sight is very popular. I have a hole drilled into the back of my vent rib and it is painted white. I aligned the the white hole in the vent rib with the front fiber optic light pipe for windage alignment. Another good option I have seen here is to dovetail a XS Big Dot rear wedge style sight into the rear of the vent rib. This one is personal preference. The 10/22 is the most precise but the largest even though it folds down. The hole drilled into the rib is the least precise but does not obstruct your vision when not in use. The XS sight is a compromise between the 10/22 and the hole in the rib.

Stippled Forearm and Pistol Grip - The plastic used on the Benelli forearm and stock are kind of slick. I have tried grip tape but it always wears down and usually moves around too. Get a good sandpaper or scalloped stippling job done for sure.

Lifter Welded Up, Extended, and Tuned This is the one thing you cannot live without on your Benelli. The stock lifter will trap your thumb in the loading port when you least expect it. C-Rums is the only place that I know fo that welds/extends them. Accurate Iron is one f the few gunsmiths that know how to tune them to your gun.

Ported and Polished Loading Port The loading port is pretty tight from the factory. If you want to speed up your reloads both weak and strong handed you gotta open this baby up. It will also save your thumb from wear and tear during the hours and hours and hours of reloading practice.

Bolt Lightened and Modified This is a nice feature that reduces felt recoil and decreases cycle time. Plus the Accurate Iron bolt just looks badass! The other modifications allow you to be able to load the gun if the bolt is out of battery and you can load an extra round on the lifter (ghost load). Some M1's will allow you load a round on the lifter in the stock configuration.

Extended/Oversized Bolt Handle I like the Nordic Component standard handle. Nordic's new Big Fat handle is nice as well if you want more to grab onto.

Side Saddle If you plan to load with your strong hand you are going to have to run some rounds on the side of your gun. The Otto Products or 3 Gun Gear are both great.

Slide Lock 2 Round Caddy Running out of ammo is inevitable with a shotgun so why not plan for it? These caddies put the ammo right next to the loading port. I should mention that these caddies can interfere with some methods of racking the bolt which is why I do not use one currently.

Oversized Bolt Release These are almost a must have item. They provide a larger footprint to bump when you have to load from slide lock and get a round in the chamber quick. There is no searching just get close. The Dave's Metal Works and the Arredondo button are my favorites.

Oversized Safety Button This is only needed on the M1. The M2 comes with a large button from the factory.

Noveske QD Sling Mount
This little gem is where it's at out back. Drill a hole in your stock, insert this BAMF and you're slung up.

Viking Tactics Sling Buttstock Adapter an alternative to drilling a hole in your $400 benelli stock is the VTAC sling requires you to attach the sling at the top rear of the buttstock. You can't use the hole that is molded into the bottom of the stock and effectively deploy the VTAC sling. If you want to go old school you can run a sling swivel through the factory loop but its not as fast because you can really only sling over your shoulder or back with that method.

Limbsaver Recoil Pad This is most often times used on the M1 models as they do not come with the Comfortech Stock.
 
Joined
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the chamber needs a little porting and polishing, and there are a couple other mods for reliability and ease of loading.
 

jtischauser

I'm addicted to kicking ass
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Messages
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Here are som pics of the Accurtate Iron 21" Benelli M2 with the full race package.


Benelli-11.jpg


Benelli-10.jpg

Benelli-9.jpg


Benelli-5.jpg

Benelli-4.jpg

Benelli-7.jpg

Benelli-8.jpg

Benelli-3.jpg
 

bigbrowndog

Red Neck Tactical
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Feb 6, 2011
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San Antonio, TX
open up the loading port
get a good F.O. front sight
get a rear sight, XS or flip
get a good recoil pad, kick eez
get a extended tube that will allow you to hold 9 rounds in the tube, Nordic Components
go shoot and practice loading.

but I don't really know much and this is my first post.

Trapr
 

honeybee

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Tulsa
What about a Poly-choke II system?

I have cut down a few older shotguns and then reamed/tapped them for choke tubes but when asked about choke tubes I have a problem making a recommendation.

You mentioned above about LM and Full chokes but when would you find the time between shots to change them out? thats not an option I know, also different shot responds differently to different chokes so why not have one choke that you can adjust and looks good too?

p_100002433_1.jpg
 

Chambers

actual GM
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You don't change chokes on the clock. You may wish to change chokes between different stages that require different kinds of shots.

I use a light mod for everything. In fact I put some locktite on it because I got tired of it coming loose.

The chances of you screwing up because of changing chokes all the time outweigh the very small advantage they might give you. Just my opinion....keep it simple!!
 

pyplynr

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Ok guys. I have a Benelli M2 26"bbl that is my primary hunting shotgun. If I decide to try 3 gun what should I do to make it competitive, but not make it where it can't go back to "dove slaughtering machine" come sept. 1?
 

Spiff

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Ok guys. I have a Benelli M2 26"bbl that is my primary hunting shotgun. If I decide to try 3 gun what should I do to make it competitive, but not make it where it can't go back to "dove slaughtering machine" come sept. 1?

Weld up the lifter, get a Nordic extension, and slap an extended carrier release on it. Done.
 

pyplynr

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What is "weld up the lifter"? Dumb question...what is the lifter? Can I take the mag tube extension off and go back to 3 round tube without modifications.
 

Wall

El Diablo
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Weld up the lifter, get a Nordic extension, and slap an extended carrier release on it. Done.
You could even get an extended bolt handle, open & polish the loading port, lighten the bolt, Heck really anything you do to it will be fine. Just so long as it'll only hold 2 in the tube when you're in the feild, your ok.
 

Wall

El Diablo
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What is "weld up the lifter"? Dumb question...what is the lifter? Can I take the mag tube extension off and go back to 3 round tube without modifications.
The lifter is the metal flap that lifts the shell from tube to the chamber. By "welded up" it is welded with material to be flat across the front instead of having the half circle removed. This will prevent your thumb from getting hung up when loading.
 

pyplynr

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The lifter is the metal flap that lifts the shell from tube to the chamber. By "welded up" it is welded with material to be flat across the front instead of having the half circle removed. This will prevent your thumb from getting hung up when loading.

That's what I was thinking it was but wasn't sure. This will be done regardless of me shooting 3 gun. That is the only part of the gun I hate. Damn near tore off a thumbnail 2 years ago hunting because of that damn rounded cutout.
 

Wall

El Diablo
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That's what I was thinking it was but wasn't sure. This will be done regardless of me shooting 3 gun. That is the only part of the gun I hate. Damn near tore off a thumbnail 2 years ago hunting because of that damn rounded cutout.
because of this, people usually have it done after no more than 1 match with it. It even has a name (the Benelli thumb) :lol:
 

Spiff

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Yup. Cyrwus may be about to send a group off to get done, or you could google c-rums and send it directly to the source to get welded.
 

OlSlyGuy

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This has to be one of the best topics I've read on boomershooter. Super informative and takes all of the guessing out of it.
 

OlSlyGuy

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I don't understand what a "tuned" lifter is. What does it mean and what is involved in the "tuning"?
 

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